Oure Kaba to Kabala - Day 219

Date: March 25th, 2010
Distance: 91km
Country: Sierra Leone
Song of the Day: Thumbing My Way Back - Pearl Jam

I got another early start on the day. Felt good about that. I didn't feel good about turning off the nice paved road. Why do I choose these routes? Still, I was here and that was the way to go. The road the the border was pretty bad too. Still, it wasn't quite as steep or as bad as from Boke to Labe.

The other problem is that I seem to have problems with these backwoods border crossings. About 14km down the road there was a kind of barrier set up. It was just a long pole across the road. There really isn't a sign to say why it is there though. There was a guy (there is always a guy) sitting under a tree. I told him I was going to Sierra Leone. He had a couple of simple questions about where I came from and so forth. He seemed satisfied, and said that I could go. Then it was another 5km to the actual border. There is an army checkpoint there, but it turns out that they don't have the passport stamps. That was at the first barracade. The man from the checkpoint said that wasn't a problem though. I could go, just pay him 5,000 Francs. Nope.

So I headed back 5km. The same guy was sitting under a tree. I told him I needed a stamp for my passport. He told me I needed to pay 10,000 Francs for the stamp. I wasn't going to pay anyway, but why did he think I would pay him anything after he had neglected to tell me I had to get the stamp here, and therefore been responsible for me having to come back? He was still trying to argue that I should pay him when another man came up and took me to the head man at immigration. The head guy also wanted 10,000 Francs. I said I wouldn't pay and he handed my passport back. I was afraid for a minute he wouldn't give me the stamp after all. I told them I had a visa though, the had to stamp it. The assistant looked through my passport for a minute. After seeing all the visas I had, they seemed to decide I just wasn't going to pay a bribe. So I got the stamp without paying. As I passed the barricade the first guy I had spoken to was still on about the 10,000 Francs. I was glad he wasn't getting a damn dime from me. (Oh, 10,000 Francs is only about $2. Paying the bribes would probably be cheaper than getting the visa, but it is the principal of the thing.)

Then it was back to the border. The third time down that pass wasn't really a charm. It isn't like it was an easy road either. Lots of little ups and downs. I wish I had only done it once. Back at the border, I picked up some water and ate a sandwich at the army checkpoint. I told them I was going to Sierra Leone, and they didn't really care. Since I wasn't bribing them, or attacking with machine guns, they seemed content just to sit in the shade.

The road didn't get any better from there though. I don't think anyone really wants responsibility for the section between the countries. So there were a few places where I had to ford mud puddles or cross dry river beds. I had to push the bike up a few sections. Because of the sandy road I was even having a hard time doing that.

I was glad to get to the checkpoint on the Sierra Leone side. It seemed much more organized than in Guinea. (Their forms even had "Say no to corruption" marked on them.) I didn't get a stamp though. The didn't have the proper stuff at this checkpoint. So I would have to go to Kabala or Freetown in the next 48 hours to get a stamp. Well, Freetown was out, but I thought I could make it to Kabala before nightfall. I asked the guy at immigration how the roads were from here to kabala. He said they were good.

I really wouldn't use that term. Better, possibly. Not good. At most of the stream crossings along the way, the bridges were washed out. So more fording of streams or mud puddles. There were also more steep places where I also had to push the bike. So another evening spent racing the sun. Bad roads were a factor. A headwind didn't help. (How can I draw that to me so frequently?) Also, overly talkative people at the police and customs checkpoint. Thanks but, I have to go before that sun sets. Again I didn't make it.

Just after dark though, I did get to a police checkpoint. I started talking with one of the police officers there. It turns out he was just getting off work and could show me a place to stay in Kabala. He was traveling my moto-taxi, so we played leapfrog into town. I was pretty glad to have his help. I don't think I would have ever found the place. Just a simple guesthouse, but it really was a nice place.

After that, my guide, Konday, took me out to dinner. I was hoping to get my money changed over, but he said that would be no problem. The restaurant could change money. So I ordered some food. Turns out they couldn't change money. Whoops, so Konday paid for me. I don't like owing people money, so we tried to find another place to change money. I guess they were all closed for the night.

So I agreed to me Konday the next day. He also invited me over to his house to meet his wife. That sounded fine. While we were going he asked if I liked rice. Yeah, I like rice. He said we could have dinner together. On the way we stopped at a place, kind of like a bar, for some palm wine. The patrons at the place called it "African Drink". I think it is also called Poyo. I tried some. Not bad, but a little like vinegar. After Konday finished his poyo we headed over to his house. His wife had made rice with ground cassava leaves and meat. Basically, man-yawk. Very tasty.

After that I said goodbye to my guide's wife and Konday took me back to the guesthouse. We agreed to meet the next day. He could help me get money changed. Also to find the immigration office in town.

I took a quick (bucket) shower and went to bed.

-Dravis