Saturday, October 31, 2009

Eurasburg to Munich - Day 73

Date: October 30th, 2009
Distance:
54km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: I Talk to the Wind - King Crimson

Got up early again. Yay. Had some breakfast and broke camp. I did scare myself a bit in the night. I thought something was munching on my food outside the tent. Turns out that it was just my breathing russling my sleeping bad. So that is my Closeau moment. Really though, nothing bad happened.

From there I just rode on to Munich. Conditions in the morning were just miserable though. It was bitterly cold and a mist had moved in. Plus I was having more headwind. Just like, but with the cold it was really crappy. Even with my full biking gloves on my fingers were almost numb. Just before noon though the sun broke out and started warming things up.

Rode through a couple of things without really seeing anything. I went through Dachau the town, but didn't see any signs for the concentration camp. A concentration camp is a weird tourist destination though. Closer to Munich I rode by the Olympic village by didn't go through it. I don't know if there is really anything cool to see there though.

Once I got into town I didn't have a clue where I was going though. I didn't have a place to stay. I just planned on getting a bed when I got there. I just didn't see any hostels. I did see the central trains station, so I decided to stop there. I figured they would have a tourist office. I was standing outside trying to figure out if I could bring my bike in when this Aussie guy started talking to me.

Turns out his name is Craig and he did have a hostel booked, but didn't know where it was. I said I would watch his stuff (he was pretty loaded down) while he went in and got a map and asked where the place was. Now the line inside was much more like people standing around in went so slowly. So after waiting around for a bit, He had some maps and the hostel was just around the corner.

One hostel is as good as any other right? So I just followed him over there. I even ended up getting booked into the room with Craig. By this point we were getting on pretty well. We ended up dropping the stuff off in the room and going out for some late lunch.

After that we took a stroll about the city. I hadn't a clue what to go for or what to see. But we just wandered around for a bit to see what there was. Frankly I did wonder what was actually old and what was new. I suspected that some of the buildings were destroyed by the second world war. The city has a lot of dates on buildings, but I wasn't sure they could be trusted. The city itself is pretty neat. But after going through a bunch of European cities, I guess it just seemed like another one.

After that we went back to the hostel and met up with Craig's friend Susie. She is from Bavaria, and had come up to meet with Craig. We ended up at the bar in the hostel. There we met another Aussie guy named Andy, and the four of us headed out for dinner. We ended up a a bierhall. I had sweinehaxe. Yum. It was a bit tough though. The one from Feirabend is so tender it falls apart in your mout. I love that.

From there we headed out to a club to dance the night away. Germans are still not, in my opinion, great dancers. Like I said though, that just means that I fit in. Actually, I think less than half of the croud was German. Most of the rest I think were tourists like me. In all it was a fun night. I didn't get back to the hostel until 5:00 in the morning. Whew.

-Dravis

Merklingen to Eurasburg - Day 72

Date: October 29th, 2009
Distance:
154km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: In the Pines - Nirvana

From Merklingen getting to Ulm was surprisingly easy. The bike route was pretty simple and I just followed it right into town. The cathedral there was pretty cool. I didn't have much time for sightseeing though. I got a few pictures and a sandwich and moved on.

Getting out of Ulm was just as easy. I just follwed the bike path along the river. That was great. Flat again and pretty easy to follow. I did have a Coke in the afternoon and frankly, I felt great. Even as night fell I was feeling really good and wanted to keep going. So I did.

Normally that would be a bad idea at night, but I had my lights on, and there were bike paths off the highway. So I was just cruising until I hit Augusburg. Unlike Ulm, Augusburg was a pain. I acutally went in a damn cicle trying to get out of downtown. Eventually I found another cyclist who was heading east out of town. So he just had me follow him.

I did a few more kilometers, but my energy by that point was dead. I was riding along a highway and there were some woods on either side. There was also a dirt track leading down through the pines. I just went to check it out at first, but I ended up pitching my tent back up in there. It was a bit creepy though because the area looked like the scary forest from The Brave Little Toaster. (Yes, I think I am man enough to make Brave Little Toaster references.) But I didn't think anything would happen, so I just went to bed.

-Dravs

Stuttgart to Merklingen - Day 71

Date: October 28th, 2009
Distance:
103km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: Fly - The Tragically Hip

Woke up early and broke camp. I actually got on the road by about 10:30. Which is good, because with the time change (that confused the hell out of me for a bit) it gets dark an hour early. So now I have to start getting up an hour earlier. Ech.

Leaving town was simple. Actually, I never did make it to the center of Stuttgart. I just followed the river south past all the car plants. I then needed to turn Ost(East). This was just a huge pain. The first path I went to take started leading me over a bunch of huge hills. No thanks. I went back to the river and took the next path. This was better in that it was over less hills. The trail markings were much worse though. Various bike paths were marked, but not weather they were part of the route I was supposed to take. I ended up getting lost in Lenningen and my maps was just about useless.

I just found directions to the next town list on the trail and took it. Eventually it did meet up and I started going the right way. I ended up in this mountain valley near the town of Neildingan completely pissed off. Whoever made the path put it right over a huge mountain. Let me put it this way, there are ski slopes on the back side. Now the valley is really beautiful. Basically cliffs on three sides. So I knew I was going to do some climbing. The trees changing colors were wonderful, though. There was even a castle ruin overlooking the whole thing. It looked really spectacular. The critical turn you need to make to get out of the valley isn't marked, however. I took three different roads all the way up until the road just stopped. Three. These aren't nice easy roads either. Most of them I was either stomping in my lowest granny gear or pushing the bike. So getting to the top and finding it isn't the right way is damn frustrating.

Finally, on the forth try, I got to the right on. There was a little sign at the top pointing the way. Thanks. Information that would have been useful at the BOTTOM of the hill. That wasn't the end either. I still had to climb my way on this little gravel road past the castle. That was a hell of a climb. In all I had wasted about two hours in that valley. So now it was getting dark and I didn't have a chance of making it to Ulm.

Argh. But what can you do? So I was on my way again. This is where I saw all the skiing areas. I also saw a shepherd watching his flock in this high mountain valley. That was pretty cool. The path wasn't much better marked in the high country either though. I did a couple of circles before meeting with another cyclist coming home from work. He said he would show me the path as far as he was going. So that was great.

But by the time he left it was pretty dark. I kept going for a bit. When I saw a sign for a camping site I followed it. So I will push on to Ulm in the morning.

-Dravis

Maulbronn to Stuttgart - Day 70

Date: October 27th, 2009
Distance: 84km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: Broken Toy - Keane

I woke up early for once. Which is even more amazing because I had stayed up very late updating my blog. But I knew that Peter was going to work early, so I didn't want to leave without being able to say goodbye. He was up when I got downstairs and made me a pot of tea. Really good tea too. Shortly after that Heidi came down and put together some breakfast. It was good German bread with homemade plum jam. So yummy. Soon Peter left for work, but the girls came down and joined us. Except for Gisa, who, apparently is like me, and likes to sleep in.

After breakfast I checked my e-mail one last time and got all packed up. I asked Heidi if I could have some of the plum jam they made. I guess they are going to sell it at the Christmas market to earn a little money for a trip to Tanzania they are planning. So I was going to pay for it, but Heidi would have none of it. As I was leaving Heidi said I was welcome back any time. Frankly, I would really like that. My time in Germany has been so wonderful. I do think a return trip is in order. Maybe I will even learn some German as well. To the family, you guys are great. Staying with you really meant a lot. I cannot thank you enough. I wish you all the best.

My first stop was just in town. I guess there is a cistercian monastery in town. When Peter first started talking with me I guess he thought that is why I wanted to go to Maulbronn. (Actually, Maulbronn was just the next town.) He said it was really special. So I stopped there first. It actually was pretty neat. Frankly, it reminded me of a lot of the stuff in Anathem. It was also weird to see this wonderful and beautiful stonework in a place where the monks weren't really allowed to have any posessions. They lived in poverty, but in something akin to a beautiful palace.

I also stopped at a bakery on my way out of town. In France I would stop in an get an pain chocolate. In Germany, I usually get a pretzel. I love pretzels. Probably been eating an unhealty amount of those... Most of the shops also have good sandwiches for just a couple of euro. So I will often get one of those too. You can also go to a butcher's shop (which I did later). They will often give you some warm processed meat with bread. I don't know what the meat is... but that is all part of the fun.

From there I went to the next town and follwed the Enz river for a while. Rivers are great because they mean no hills. After leaving the Enz though I did get a bit lost. I do have a map that lists the bike routes, but it is awful in the cities. You can follow the signs, but that is only if you see them all and everything is marked correctly. I have gotten okay at guessing the routes, but it is still frustraiting. If you miss a sign, you don't know until it is too late. So when I figured out I was lost it was too late to go back. Instead I just headed overland in the general direction of Stuttgart.

This worked, but I ended up asking a bunch of people where to go. One very nice fellow biker even went with me to show me the way. I guess we were going the same way for most of the route, but it is cool that they are willing to help out a stranger. By this time it was dark. I was going to stop at a camping site just outside of Stuttgart. Well I guess I passed it the first time. I asked a guy about the camping and that got me into a big conversation. I guess he learned english from classic Rock'n Roll. So he talked to me for a long time about the music he liked and the concerts he had been too. He also told me his feelings that current music is crap. For the most part, I can agree with that. He just wouldn't shut up though. I think he would have talked with me all night, but it was getting cold and I wanted to get some food and go to bed.

When I got to the campsite it was right next to these giant beer tents. Beirzelten. I think they were left over from the Octoberfest events from the begining of the month. I guess they just hadn't been taken down yet. These things are big. At first I thought they might be circus tents.

In camp I got my tent up and headed off to find some dinner. The cafe at the site had some cheap food. I had some suasage with mashed potatoes. The mashed potatoes were good. The suasage was not. From there I headed down to the supermarket. I needed some supplies (like breakfast) for the next day. Then it was off to bed.

-Dravis

Friday, October 30, 2009

Halloween Photo Contest

Okay, for those of you out there who enjoy Holloween, I decided to have a little photo contest. I really don't get to see much of what all of my friends form around the world are doing. I thought Halloween would be a good time to get some pictures of the parties and fun people are having.

So if you want, e-mail me a photo of yourself in costume, and I will post it on my blog. Then everybody can check out what is happening. Please only photos of you or the party you are having. Top prize will be awarded by me and the winner will get absolutely nothing, except top mention and continued internet obscurity. Points will be awarded for costume creativity and difficulty of location. So a photo of an eagle costume in the Gobi desert would score very well.

I am also going to get some kind of costume together, mostly from things i have already. That should be posted soon. Best of luck to all entrants.

-Dravis

Monday, October 26, 2009

Mannheim to Maulbronn - Day 69

Date: October 26th, 2009
Distance:
101km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: Over the Hills and Far Away - Led Zeppelin

Boy, another cold morning. It was cool to watch the riverboats go by as I ate breakfast though. I could even see them going by in the night. The Rhine here is only about as wide as the boats are long. So I don't think turning around is an option. So navigating the channel must be interesting. Not only that I saw a couple of ships passing each other. In a river so narrow that must be a bit nerve wracking.

Anyway, I got the tent down and on my way. I was going to pay for the night, but no one was at reception. I am sorry, but I wasn't going to wait around all day in the cold for someone to show up. So I just left. So for the proprietors, sorry.

After six days on the Rhine, I was finally heading away from the river. My first stop was in a little town called Schwetzingen. I wasn't going to stop, but I saw a bike shop there. I needed a couple of things. Like a map would be a good start. I did finally get a replacement hook for my pannier. They had a map, but it only went to Ulm. Close enough for me. The last thing I got was some new break pads. The ones I have are pretty well worn down.

On the new map I saw a couple of bike routes. So I decided to explore. Wow, they are actually pretty nice. I was riding through a lot of forest. With the leaves changing colors it is quite beautiful. Some of the paths lead along old gravel roads. Really wild places. It seems weird for a place like Europe, where everything is so developed. In the areas of France and Belgium I was traveling through almost everything is cultivated land. Here they have real forests. Pretty spectacular.

Away from the river now, I started running into more hills. But after the Rhine and the Low Countries, I think I am ready for that. Still, it makes it hard to calculate the time it will take to get somewhere. Up hills are incredibly slow. Downhills can be fast, but it also depends on the terrain and road conditions. If you are travelling through a city or over bad roads you really can't go as fast as you want to.

Well, so I ended up getting caught out again in the dark. Damn. I was in the little town of Knittlingen trying to get to Maulbronn. From there I was hoping to find someplace to stay for the night. I was having a hell of a time finding the bike path out of the town though. I ended up meeting a guy named Peter who was coming home from work. Not only would he show me to Maulbronn, but he would put me up for the night. How cool is that?

I guess he and his family have done some bike tours as well. So he knows what it is like to find a place to stay. Of course, when we got to his house, he had to ask his wife's permission first. But she was quite happy to have a guest over. They even invited me to eat dinner with them. Good Swabian food too. Pumpkin and ginger soup with onion cake. Yum. Oh, and to drink I had to Mosht. This is a local version of apple cider. I guess it is a home brew that Peter makes. It was really good. For desert we had some apple crumble and milk.

After dinner we played a couple of games. Their eldest daughter, Nelli, was out. Lotte was there when I arrived, but left to meet up with some friends right before dinner. So it was just Peter, his wife Heidi, their youngest daughter Gisa, and Gisa's friend Lea. At first we played Maxle. Which I will have to explain at some later time. It is played with two dice, and was really a lot of fun. After that, I showed them how to play 10,000. (I think that is right.) This is a game played with 5 dice. After that, it was getting late and time for bed.

I really cannot thank the family enough. They have been so wonderful. Especially since I was picked up off the street like a stray dog. Everyone seemed to take it in stride. They gave me food, a shower, I got to do some laundry, and a place to sleep. Actually, they put me up in Gisa's room. She didn't even complain about losing her bed for the night. I just can't say enough about all the hospitality they have shown me. I did promise that if any or all of them are in Seattle, they are most welcome to stay. I am sure I won't have a hard time finding hosts either.

Oh, there was one other incident that I should mention that was pretty funny. Like I said, Nelli was out when I arrived. So she didn't know I was there. When she got in late that night, I was still up posting on my blog. I think she saw the light on and wondered why Gisa was still up. So she came in and found some strange guy in her sister's room. I don't think life prepares you for the etiquette in a situation like that. She actually handled it very well. No screaming. I just explained that I was on a bike tour and her father had invited me to stay. So Gisa was somewhere else. This seemed a good explanation and she left me alone. I just couldn't help but laugh (quietly) after she left. How do you handle a situation like that? Well, Nelli, thank you for not freaking out.

Again, to Peter, Heidi and the family, it has been wonderful. I hope you have enjoyed my company as much as I have enjoyed yours. Thank you.

-Dravis

Mainz to Mannheim - Day 68

Date: October 25th, 2009
Distance:
113km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: Killing Time - The Tragically Hip

Left the campsite before noon, and was on the road. First stop was the center of Mainz. I stopped by their tourist information center, but they didn't haven any maps, other than just for the city. I would have gone to a bike shop for more maps, but it was Sunday, and they would all be closed. Oh well, it was going to be another day along the Rhein. So all I had to do was follow the river.

This actually worked out pretty well. Low wind today for a change. Plus it was just a simple journey. Do watch out for construction though. There was one spot where they were doing work on the section next to the river that I was riding on. So I was forced onto the highway with basically no shoulder. But it was only a couple of kilometers to the next town and the trail picked up again.

By the time I got to Mannheim it was getting dark. I knew from there I would have to head overland, but I didn't know the route. I stopped at a park in town and stole some wi-fi to look at google maps.

While I was there I found a campingplatz just south of the city. So that was my next stop. No one was around reception when I got in, so I just setup my tent. I also cooked dinner on my little stove for the first time in a couple of days. Tortoline with Neopolotin sauce. Ymmy.

-Dravis

Koblenz to Mainz - Day 67

Date: October 24th, 2009
Distance: 126km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: Find the River - R.E.M.

Well, I tried getting up early and getting a good start. Things just have a way of being slow on cold mornings though. I didn't mind too much. The sun was out and I was hoping that it would help dry out my tent a bit. I only got on the road just about 11:30.

From there I ended up going back north into Koblenz. I didn't see any good way to cut back from the Mosel to the Rhine. Still I got to see the giant statue that had been just a shadow the night before. Apparently the people really like a guy named Willhelm.

Heading south was amazing scenery wise. At every bend in the river was a quaint town or maybe town. On every third for forth hill there was a castle. Actually, the castles seemed to fall into three categories. First, actual defensive fortifications. Second, royal estates meant to look like the first category. Third, ruins. Often you could see all three types in one castle.

There is also a weird dichotomy between the river and the towns. Everything along the river is in transit. The boats are plying the waters. Moving containers, or fuel or ore. There are trains going by on both sides. Roads with cars on both sides as well, with "Fahre" boats every few kilometers to move them to the other. Even on the cycle path there are walkers, joggers, and cyclics. But the towns, many must have been around for a few hundred years. Some of the castles are probably 800 or older. Everything moves but the towns stay the same.

Anyway, the weather on the other hand was not great. Headwind. It really rips through the river valley. Just greuling. If you do plan to bike along the Rhine, you might want to consider going North. (Or, if you are doing a circut along the river, well, just expect some wind.) I just ended up going slow and tried to enjoy the view.

Oh, I forgot about the vinyards. Along the steep slopes of the hills are these vinyards. I watched some people out there picking grapes. I will take my headwind over having to haul buckets of grapes up and down those slopes, thank you.

I should mention more about the river boats as well. They are long and skinny. Most look almost like barges. Except they have a mast at the front for two flags. I am not sure what the flags say, maybe company and country? Some of the boats are really like two regular boats lashed together, litterally. The part in front has the prow, and I don't know if it even has engines. The rear part has the cabin and engines to the push the whole thing along. In the middle you can see the cables that are holding it all together. I am thinking this is done to get through some of the smaller locks. But I could be wrong. There is one other wierd thing, many of the boats had cars sitting on the aft end. Just a few, the most I ever saw was four. I can't imagine that this is the way cars are shipped down river. Coordinating all the different arrivals would be hell. Maybe it is for the crew, when they get into port they can have a car? I don't know. Maybe someone with a little more nautical background can comment.

Other than castles, there was also a prety cool ruined bridge. I guess it is the Hindenburgbruke. Here are some pictures of it. As I mentioned before my fascination with ruins.

So after Bingen the trail diverges from the river. This wasn't bad, as it got me out of the wind. I finally started making some headway. I did get quite lost outside of Mainz though. But with the help of some strangers I was able to get the location of a camping site and find my way there. Amazingly enough it was still open, until October 31st. So I have another week. I think I may have to do more research before Italy, to make sure their camping sites are still open after November.

-Dravis

Koln to Koblenz - Day 66

Date: October 23rd, 2009
Distance:
113
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: Congratulations - Traveling Wilburys

I can't believe how quickly the morning went by. Just woosh. I didn't even get started on the bike until about noon. The path I was on was pretty easy though. It pretty much just followed the river. Plus because it is along the river, there aren't really any hills. So I had no real complaints.

I kept having to cycle around the plants on the water's edge, though. This area truly is Germany's industrial heartland. It is pretty wild to see just all the stuff going on. Factories and refineries working away. The cycle path leads through some of the access roads to the plants, which seems a bit weird. It is just you and a bunch of trucks. South of Bonn though, the heavy industry fades. Big hills start appearing and you get mostly these wonderful little towns crowded along the banks of the Rhine.

In the afternoon I went through the town of Remagen. Again, one of those places you hear about, but don't think much of. I thought it was a lot farther north, actually. It is just a small town along the banks of the Rhine. There isn't even a bridge there anymore. (It collapsed only 10 days after being captured.) The bridge towers are still up, though. On the Remagen side, the East tower is now a freedom museum.

It did start raining on me in the afternoon. The scenery was still great, so I didn't mind too much. I was just wet while looking an rolling hills and cute little German towns. Really, it is pretty amazing. If you really want to impress a girl who fancies herself a bit athletic, take a cycle tour of the Rhine. If your pocket book allows, you don't even need to camp. There are tons of little hotels along the river. I bet you could get away with a bike and a small backpacks if you packed Rick Steves style. For those a bit more sedentary in nature, they also have river cruises. You might book ahead though. Things looked pretty empty now, but I bet everything is just crowded during the summer. (I know, I probably shouldn't start selling tours to everyone. But it really has been a pretty cool day.)

When I finally rolled into Koblenz, it was after dark. This always seems to happen. I think that is why people cycle tour in the summer... The first capingplatz I went to was closed. The second one I looked up was about 6 k down the Mosel river. I did find it though, eventually. It was open and there were a ton of people there. They even had a cafe, where I got two bratwurst. Finally some good German sausages.

-Dravis

Essen to Koln - Day 65

Date: October 22nd, 2009
Distance: 98km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: Just Wait - Blues Traveler

Said goodbye to my hosts and headed out. It was really cool of them to let me stay. I hope they know how much I appreciated it.

Getting out of town was a bit of a pain. I should have looked up the address of where I was. Oh well. I finally figured it out with the help of a handy information post. Once out of town I was going along a bunch of really pretty country. Woodlands, where the leaves are turning and falling off. Hills with big rivers flowing through the valleys. Quite a change from the farmlands I had been going though.

Ten K south of Essen though, I started running into some climbs. Over big, steep hills. Since I haven't done too many hills recently. These really took it out of me. It was the first time in about three countries since I had used anything but my biggest chainring. Still the scenery was beautiful.

I did get lost around Velpin though. This is where the GPS would have come in handy. The major country highways I can find. It is all the little routes in the cities and towns that get me lost. I did find my way eventually, but it took a while.

From there I rode through the town of Neandertal. Yep, that Neanderthal. That is one thing about cycle touring, you end up going through all these weird little places. Frankly, until I saw the name on the sign I never thought about where the name for that hominid actually came from. Well, now I know.

By the end of the day I was quite excited to get back to the Rhine. It has a weird beauty to it. Sure it is a nice scenic river. But there are also these giant factories and chemical plants along it. It is a strange mixture of farmland, riverbank and industry.

Just north of Koln, I met another cyclist named Kai. He was coming back from his job, but was nice enough to ride along with me for a bit and give me some directions into Koln. While we were cycling, I told him about my tour. He mentioned that he was interested in doing something similar, but hadn't yet found the right traveling companion. Best of luck on that.

I took the bridge across the river right into town. Koln is a very interesting place. The cathedral there is quite impressive. The stone has turned almost black, which actually goes pretty well with its neo-gothic styling. I wish I had more time to look around the city, but it was getting dark, and I really had to find someplace to sleep. On my way back across the bridge, I noticed that people had put thousands of locks onto the railing. I don't know if that is a protest or an art project? Anyone got a clue?

I thought about staying at a hostel. The one in Koln is amazing. It is huge, basically a hotel. The guy at the front desk was pretty snooty though. Plus they wanted 28 euro for a bed. No thanks. I went down the road a bit and got a camping site for just 10 euro.

Once I had the tent up, it was time to find some food. I needed groceries again. So I headed. back across. the river to a suburb. I found a store that was still open and picked up supplies for breakfast and more bread for sandwiches. Plus cheap chocolate bars, for energy during the day.

Then it was off to find some dinner. I was looking for some nice greasy wurst. But I didn't see any. Instead I wandered into a nice Italian place. Run by actual Italians, go figure. I ordered a pepperoni pizza because it was amazingly cheap. Turns out, that meant just peppers on the pizza. I was hoping for a little meat on it. Oh well, the pizza was still great.

-Dravis

Rhineburg to Dusseldorf (then back to Essen) - Day 64

Date: October 21st, 2009
Distance:
60km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: What If - Coldplay

I woke up and said goodbye to my hosts. A big thanks to Ivan and his family. Then back on the road. More headwind, but it wasn't as bad today. I have started accepting that I just won't be going very fast. The terrain is still fairly flat. The farm fields are frequently interrupted by giant factories and chemical plants though. It is easy to see why the Rhein river valley is quite a center of industry.

After a few false turns, I crossed the river into Dusseldorf. On the far side of the bridge I was shocked to see a statue for a Saint Nipomuk. I am sure my family remembers this guy quite well. We were playing a game and couldn't believe that it he was a really a saint. Nipomuk. What kind of a name is that? Well, I guess he is real. So here is a picture of the statue. I don't know why it is there though. He was supposed to have been drowned in the Vltava river in Prague...

From there I went into the center of town to pick up a map at the tourism office. I was actually on my way out of town (hoping to get to Koln) when I ran into five guys. Actually, they came up and started talking to me, but in German. Once they realized that I didn't understand, they switched to English. They were students starting of the semester with a party. On a Wednesday. (Welcome to Germany. Welcome to Wednesday.) They had brought along a suitcase with wheels. In the suitcase was beer and Jagermeister. On top they had strapped a boom box and were playing music. On the outside they had taped pictures of semi-naked ladies. These guys were prepared.

They ended up inviting me to come and hang out with them. They would even give me a place to stay for the night (in Essen). At first I was a bit reticent. Mostly because I was still hung up on getting to Koln. But this was the experience that I had come for right? To meet people and hang out? So yeah, I joined them.

We went to a brewery just down the street. Yes, I did have a beer with them. No, I still don't like beer. I can tolerate it though. We just stood around talking, drinking beer and having a pretzel. Pretty cool.

From there we got on the train to Essen. They were drinking beer on the train, which everyone accepted. Even when they were inviting other people to have shots of Jagermeister nobody seemed to mind. One old lady just looked at them and smiled, as if to say "Ah, youth." I was pretty interesting. If that had been the US, everyone would have been upset. In Germany it seems that people understand it is just young people having a good time.

After we got to Essen we headed to the Flat of two of the guys (Timo and Daniel). Also met a third roommate, Martin. We sat around talking for a bit. I got a primer on the mysterious "ß". They even gave me some good German bread. I also had some meat that Timo's grandmother had given him. (She apparently thought he was getting to thin.) I don't remember what it was called, but it was like a tiny meatloaf in the form of a hamburger patty. Boy was it good. Baked onions, mmmm. I even had a quick shower while the guys watched some football.

From there we went out to a place to play some "kicker", or, as Americans would know it, Foosball. I was on a team with Dennis. We were facing off against Christian and Andy. We lost the first three games. But then came from behind to win the 4th and final game. The one that really counted. ;-)

Then it was off to a club down the street. It wasn't very packed when we went in. But it started to fill up soon after. By 11:00 the dance floor was packed with people. Most of the people there seemed to dance like I do, which is badly. So really I fit right in. Anyway, it was a blast. Really a lot of fun meeting all those guys. So to Timo, Andy, Christian, Martin, Daniel, and Dennis, thank you. I had a blast. Good luck this semester!

-Dravis

Arnhem to Rheinberg - Day 63

Date: October 20th, 2009
Distance: 112km
Country: Germany
Song of the Day: Drifting - Pearl Jam

Last night was the coldest I have been in since Iceland. Frankly, that is saying a lot. When I got up, it wasn't much warmer. I am glad that I didn't shave last night. A little stubble actually seems to help keep out the cold. I am not planning on shaving until I get to Italy and (hopefully) it gets warmer.

First thing I had to do was go to a grocery store. I was absolutely out of supplies. So I did some shopping and ate my breakfast in the (bike) parking lot. I had noticed a bike shop down the street so I decided to stop in. I lost one of the hooks for my panniers somewhere around Hastings. They had some Ortleib stuff in their window, so I wanted to check if they had a replacement. Sadly, no. They did have a long sleeve under-jersey, though. So I got that. Much warmer. The guy at the shop, Sandro, was also cool. He gave me a cup of hot chocolate and we talked for a bit about my journey and stuff.

I did take too long there though. I really didn't end up leaving the camping site until after noon. I did stop in Arnhem for just a bit. A very pretty town. You might recall it from the movie A Bridge Too Far, which is about Operation Market Garden. I got to see what is now the John Frost Bridge. I can understand why the movie didn't feature it. There isn't anything really around the bridge, anymore. At the time it had nice houses on the north end. Those were destroyed by the Germans shelling the British airborne troops there. Now there are just a couple old warehouses.

It would have been great to stay longer, but I had lots of kilometers to do. Sadly, they were all into the wind. Again. Very, very lame. I don't know how I can draw so much head wind. I have gone every direction possible, yet each way I get headwind. I don't know how that is even geographically or meteorologically possible. But I seem to be doing it. Urgh. It is just really frustrating.

So I made slow progress throughout the day. Even though I didn't do a huge number of kilometers, because of the wind it is like going uphill all day. I did get into Germany. Country six for those of you counting along at home. Actually I missed the actual crossing. All I noticed was that the sings were now a bit different. I did cross over the Rhine though, twice. From then on it was along the Rhine the rest of the day.

I never made it to my destination, Dusseldorf, though. Instead I stopped in a small place call Rheinberg. It was dark by this point, so I was hoping there might be a camping site outside of the city. When I got there, I saw a couple of industrial plants. I didn't know if they were refineries or what. I knew getting a place to stay would be hard though. No one comes to camp next to near an industrial park.

I stopped outside of a truck stop restaurant. There was an information sign. I just didn't see any camping sites on it. I asked one of the truckers walking by, but he didn't know. He said to check in at the restaurant. This turned out to be great advice. No, they didn't know of one, but I could just camp outside. For free as well. How cool is that? Of course I felt obliged to have dinner there. Not that it was hard. I was looking forward to a big German dinner anyway. I had a nice big plate of Schnitzel. Mmmmmm.

The owner of the place, Ivan, was really cool too. I guess he is Croatian. Apparently he was joking with his father (before we got to talking about my trip) and told him that I was heading to South Africa to watch the world cup next year. Hahaha. Not far off actually. (The World Cup is in October though, and I am going to be back in August.) So, if you find yourself in Rhineburg, head to the Trucker Grill, Nordring 58. Though, I am sure he would appreciate it if people didn't bombard him with camping requests...

-Dravis

Amsterdam to Arnhem - Day 62

Date: October 19th, 2009
Distance: 130km
Country: The Netherlands
Song of the Day: Evaporated - Ben Folds Five

Woke up and had (a very large) breakfast with a pair of sisters from Australia. That is one really cool thing about staying in hostels. You get to meet so many interesting people. I guess they were traveling through Europe, but the opposite direction that I was. They started in Greece and were moving north. So they were going to end up in Edinburgh, Scotland. Good luck, and stay warm.

After checking out of the hostel, I took one last ride around the city. It is really quite a pleasant place to bike in. Yeah, you still have to watch out for cars, pedestrians, trams and even other bikers. Oh, also people on little scooters. Yet, it seems like everyone is really nice about it. Basically, the people actually expect bikers to be there. So they generally look out for you.

I also got some pictures of the tilt in the city. Here are two good examples. The architecture of the city itself is pretty fascinating. Almost all of the buildings have a bar sticking out near the roof with hook on it. In years gone by they could put on a block and tackle onto that hook and load goods into the upper floors. Cargo from ships in the canals would be offloaded and stored in these houses. I doubt most of them have been used for 100 years, but I don't see anyone taking them down...

Getting out of Amsterdam was also the easiest time I have had leaving a city. Well, other than London, where I snuck out along the canal. From Amsterdam though there are basically bike paths along all of the major roads leading out of the city. So it didn't take an extra hour which I was grateful for.

The rest of the country was good for bike paths as well. Frankly, it has been the best country to bike in so far. Yeah, admittedly, it is pretty flat. So it does have that going for it. (If you don't like flat roads, try biking with a fully loaded touring rig.) Besides that, the paths for bikes are great. I guess I would explain it as, in most countries riding a bike is accepted. In The Netherlands, it is expected. It is seen as just as important a method of getting around, even between cities, as driving a car. So if you can only tour one country on a bike, I suggest Holland. It isn't perfect mind you. A couple of times the bike path along the highway would end forcing you to wander through a small town. I just don't have any big complaints about it.

But most of the day was just putting more kilometers behind me. Still heading into the wind for some reason. It is disheartening to see those windmills (both old and new) facing the same direction as you are. It did get dark before I got to Arnhem, but I found a campsite just outside of the city. I was quite happy about this. The night was getting pretty cold. I was able to get a nice warm shower and go to bed.

-Dravis

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Amsterdam - Day 61

Date: October 18th, 2009
Distance: None
Country: The Netherlands
Song of the Day: Miss America - Something Corporate

Wow, I can't believe that it has been two months already. Another ten before I return from my exile. Really I have been planning out how to spend the next two months or so. I figure I will take two weeks to get through Germany. Maybe make it down to Austria. I still think I am going to have to take a train over the Alps. (No elephants for me.) From there I want to spend three weeks in Italy. Then a week through the south coast of France. Finally two weeks going down the east coast of Spain. Then take a boat to Morocco. Hopefully that will put me right about December 15th. So I will have ten days to get to where my cousin is staying in Morocco before Christmas. I also need to figure out which to he is living in... So anyway, if anyone knows places to stay or people to meet in those places, let me know.

As for today, it was fairly relaxed. (Not that kind of relaxed.) Which was good. Woke up and ate a ton of free breakfast at the hostel. Then met up with Larry. He was going to see the Anne Frank museum. So we went there. I hadn't realized that the Frank family was in hiding in Amsterdam. I guess it just isn't something you really think about when you think Amsterdam. Frankly, this seems like the city being free to do what you want. Far different from the time that people were forbidden from businesses or from owning bicycles or sent to camps or hidden in tiny rooms. Just weird. The museum was put together well. Plus the story is just so sad and compelling.

From there we went out to get a pancake. (Shmoke and a pancake?) The place we went to seemed to be run by this one woman show. There were a ton of people in there. Just one lady was taking orders, making the pancakes and even running downstairs with a huge stack of dishes to do some washing. Frankly, I wished I could have helped out somehow. Instead, even though Europeans aren't big on tipping, we left a good one. We ordered a couple of pancakes, and they were really like big thick crepes. So, in other words, very tasty.

Then it was back to the hostel. I needed to get some laundry done. Not only were my biking clothes dirty and gross, my towel was starting to smell as was my sleeping bag liner. I ended up finding a place a couple of blocks away who were very nice. I just dropped it off and they were going to do the rest.

So I checked in on my bike. Still there, and in one piece, so that felt good. I took it and ran over to the Rijksmuseum. Expensive (11) but still pretty cool. They had a little bit of history of the Dutch golden age. This was mostly built on their overseas trading empire. Then on the upper floor they had works of art. Fruits of this golden age. Cool stuff. A lot of Rembrant, but other cool painters as well. Like the whole Van de Velde family, apparently.

Then back to the train station to lock my bike up again. Also back to pick up my laundry. Smells fresh and clean.

Back at the hostel I met a guy from New Hampshire. (Most of the people here seem to be from the East Coast.) So we started haning out. Eventually went out to dinner at a Thai restaraunt. Had some good food and chewed the fat for a while.

Finally it was back to the hostel for bed. Tomorrow I will be back on the road to head down to Arnhem.

-Dravis

Brussels to Amsterdam - Day 60

Date: October 17th, 2009
Distance:
Cheating by train!
Country: The Netherlands
Song of the Day: I Gotta Feeling - Black Eyed Peas

After (lots) of breakfast at the hostel, I packed up and went to the train station. I guess the ticket was good for any train of the day. I missed the first train because I couldn't find the steward to ask it if there was room for my bike. After that I realized a) there was no way to talk to the steward before getting on the train and b) there would never be enough room. So I waited an hour for the next train and just got on. It was packed, but I found space to stand with my bike. No one bugged me about being there.

I did get some minor bike upgrades done. I created a good mount for my headlight on my front rack. (There just isn't anymore room on my handle bars. Then again, one of the things taking up space was my GPS...) I also re-wrapped my areo bars. So they look good again. I also did some sewing. I needed to make a case for my mini-cards. But my first attempt was a mess. And I didn't have enough time to finish a second.

Amsterdam itself was fairly nice. It really is a bike friendly city. There are bike lanes everywhere. Along with that though are lots of people in those bike lanes. So it can be a little treacherous going around. But not bad.

I had made a reservation at the hostel before I left Brussels, but it took me a bit to find it. The streets in Amsterdam are weird. Or, I should say not a nice grid pattern. But I found it, and got checked in.

After getting check in, I went for a bit of a cycle around the city. Just to see what it was like. It really is just ringed with probably a dozen canals. So in that way it is unlike any city I have ever been to. Despite that, getting around isn't bad. There are bridges everywhere and as I mentioned before the bike lanes. One other weird thing, the city seems to lean. Everywhere. Buildings just aren't straight. It isn't quite as bad as a Dr. Suess book, but it is quite visible. I guess they musthave some guy in tehre who blesses the buildings (or prays that they stay up). So they are probably sound. It is still odd to walk under a building that is obviously looming out over you.

I also needed to find a place to put my bike. It is probably one of the nicer ones in town. People just seem to use trashy city bikes. Most of which have racks or panniers for carrying stuff. So I didn't want to leave mine on the street. I guess the best place is outside the train station. There is a 3 floor bike park there monitored all day and night. But even that really isn't enough. It took a while to find a place to lock it. But I did get it locked up, and I hope that it will blend in with the hundreds or thousands of other bikes there.

Then I headed back to the hostel. Went to the hostel bar again. I ended up meeting a couple of people. One guy, Larry, was from Long Island. He had just come back from a wedding in Italy and was taking a couple days in Amsterdam before going back home/to work. There were also two brothers there from outside Los Angeles. They were at the end of three weeks traveling Europe. We hung out for a while talking about all sorts of things. All three of them were looking forward to getting back, but not going to work. I can understand. I know I am going to be happy to be back home and just veg out for a bit.

After that the brothers left to find a "coffee shop", but Larry and I headed out to find a club. I guess the clubs in town don't really open until 11:00 at night. So we had a bit of time to kill. First we went to a bar that was pretty lively. People were dancing to mexican pop music of all things. But it was fun. We met a couple of Dutch kids out for a night on the town. Eventually the music turned to more modern stuff, like today's Song of the Day and some Michael Jackson.

Oh, I also started talking to this guy from South Africa named Rob. I guess he had joined up with the French forign legion, but had been kicked out for fighting with one of the other recruits. Which was bad because he said he wanted to "go mercenery in Africa." Now he might have just been messing with me, but he seemed pretty serious about it. Best of luck man!

Larry and I stepped out to get some pizza. Then met back up with Rob outside the club. I guess it still hadn't opened. So we ended up sitting at this cafe for 45 minutes waiting for it to open. When it did, they wouldn't let me in because of my knife again. Damn, why do I always forget about that? Maybe because I just don't think of it as a weapon... So they wouldn't let me in, at all though, which is crap. So Larry and I said goodbye to Rob and left.

Basically we just wandered around Amsterdam for a while. We ended up at a place in the red light district drinking coke. Yes, they really do have women standing in doorways. No, I didn't visit any of them. I also didn't smoke any pot here. Which I guess makes this blog a bit boring. Sorry about that.

It was interesting to watch the transactions going on though. Some guys would walk up to a girl, then think better of it and walk away. Othere groups of (drunken) young guys would walk up, talk about it and wander off. Then other guys would go up, haggle with the lady of the evening and either go inside or head off to look for a better deal.

While we were there the police drove by as well. Didn't do a thing. I mean this is Amsterdam right? So I don't know why I was surprised. I guess I don't see why it is illegal (prostituation or drugs frankly) in the states. Or maybe, it is the line at which it becomes prostitution that seems weird to me. Still, seeing women in windows was a bit creepy and weird.

After we finished our cokes, the bar started closing. So we just called it a night.

-Dravis

Ghent to Brussels - Day 59

Date: October 16th, 2009
Distance: 67km
Country: Belgium
Song of the Day: Stop Me if You Think You Have Heard This One Before - The Smiths

So, I have not been having the world's best day today. The first big disaster of the day was that the GPS unit that I had was stolen this morning. I had gone into a grocery store to pick up some supplies and forgot that I left it on the bike. I was only inside about 5 minutes when I realized that I had left it out there. So I rushed outside to make sure it was still there. Nope, it was gone. Damn.

I feel like an idiot for leaving it there. I should explain that I believe there are two types of dumb. There is stupid, which is doing something that is dangerous or unproductive, but for some reason are great fun. I think fireworks fall into that category. Stupid, but fun. Then there is idiocy, which is doing something because you just aren't thinking. Leaving the GPS unit was idiocy.

That is the worst part about it, I kept thinking about all the ways that I could have prevented it. If I had noticed it, then it wouldn't have taken any time to grab it. I didn't even have to stop. I was thinking about just getting food later. But no, I was there, at the wrong time, forgetting my GPS. Argh.

After thinking about this (all day) I have come up with the idea that if you are going to carry an expensive piece of equipment on your bike and you are, like me, forgetful then attach the equipment too you. A piece of string would work. One of those retracktable things you put key cards on would be better. Just anything that keeps you from walking away without thinking about it. After a while it might become second nature and you wouldn't really have to use it. Just a word to the wise.

So yeah, I went to the police and reported it stolen. They were very nice but everyone I talked to couldn't help telling me I shouldn't leave anything on my bike. Thanks, that is great advice before something gets stolen. Afterwards, it is just annoying. It is in the system, and they have my phone number in case it turns up. I just don't think the chances for that happening are good. (Which is odd in a way. It is a GPS unit. You would think that someone could figure out exactly where it is...)

After that I headed towards Brussels. It would have been much better if I had the GPS, but no I was back to more dead reckoning. Actually the N9 highway went right there, so all I had to do was follow that as it wandered around.

Oh, and it started raining about now. Still more headwind. Rain and wind together are lame. I never rained that hard, but enough to make you cold and wet and wish it would stop. So even the biking wasn't fun.

I did get to Brussels, but the hostels I had mapped out were all on my GPS. So now I had to wander around the city until I found something. This was about the time I got hit by the truck. They hit me with a truck. Actually, it was more like a nudge. Some guy was turning left and didn't notice me coming. So he wasn't going very fast. I tried to get by, but he hit one of my panniers. I didn't crash which was good. Just ran up onto the curb and stopped. Nothing broken on either me or the bike. So we can all be thankful for that. But like I said, Belgians just don't seem to like or notice cyclists.

From there I decided to go to a train station. I was going to cheat and head to Amsterdam the next day by train. (I know, lame, but I wanted to move this along.) So I did get some directions to the train station and bought a ticket. They even had a map to the local hostels, so that was nice.

I found a place, got a bed and took a shower. From there it was off to see if there was anyting fun to do in Brussels on a Friday night. First stop was the bar in the hostel. I just wanted to see if anyone was up to go out. Sadly, it was pretty dead. There were some people who worked at the hostel there. But they were having a going away party for some of their coworkers. (Co-volunteers, I should say.)

From there I just ended up wandering around the city for a while. I stopped at a couple of places but it didn't seem like anyting was really "happening". I came to realize that I wasn't having the experience of all my friends who had a really good time in Brussels. I then had a second epiphony that this might be due to the fact that I don't like beer. So the people who liked Brussels a lot probably had a good time because of drinking beer with people. Well, that is just not my thing. (It also made me think about all the people who had great times in Amsterdam and what they were doing while there...)

So I headed back to the hostel. The bar had actually become a hopping place. Except it was hopping with about 30 highschool girls. I ended up talking with their teachers/chaperones for a bit. I guess they were all from Antwerp. They were performing an opera next spring and had come to Brussels to see it.

Oh, and there was also an annoying drunken guy from Basque country who wouldn't leave me alone. He also wanted us to go over and hit on the highschool girls. Ich. I just prefered to leave them to dance to cheesy pop music in peace. So I decided to just go to bed.

-Dravis

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Calais to Ghent - Day 58

Date: October 15th, 2009
Distance: 147km
Country: Belgium
Song of the Day: How to Survive a Broken Heart - Ben Lee

Woke up to a cold morning. I wanted to get up earlier, but the sun wasn't even up. I am so warm in my little cocoon as well. Eventually I did get up and ate a hearty breakfast. Then it was off for the day.

Got to Dunkerque and took one last video. But I was hoping to get to Brussels by the end of the day. So I didn't stay long.

I did get to Belgium. Yay, country number 4 on this trip. There wasn't even a crossing gate. Just a sign. Must more like crossing a state border than an international one.

First impressions are the roads are much more adapted for bikes. On most of the highways there is a bike lane or a bike path. This doesn't seem to be a concession to the cyclists so much as to the drivers. Belgian drivers are terrible with bikes. They pull out right in front of you. They honk all the time to get you to move. Hey, if there is no bike lane, it is my road too buddy.

The people on the streets don't really seem to get tourists. Or maybe just don't get a touring cyclists. They just glare at me as I go by. Even most other cyclists do. It is weird. Anyone you talk to though a) seems to speak English and b) is quite friendly. Oh, and the prices here are better than in France. Not cheap really, but much more reasonable.

I should mention one other thing. Belgium smells. I know France and England had their moments. It just seems to happen much more often here. I don't know if it is just that they have more cows per capita? Or maybe just the areas that I am going through? But yeah, stinky.

Anyway, I didn't get to Brussels. I didn't even get to Ghent really. (I am about 15km away right now.) I did use the GPS to find a nice camping spot. So that is cool. It makes up for the GPS thinking I was a car again. (Take the the ramp to the A16... argh.)

Had dinner and stole some wi-fi at a "frituur". Mmmm, fried food. So good. Tomorrow onto Ghent and Brussels.

-Dravis

Berck to Calais - Day 57

Date: October 14th, 2009
Distance: 127km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Hold Me - Weezer

Another long day. More wind. Not a whole lot to say about it. Still into the wind.

Got another short spot for my video. I know that I missed a few things. So I may have to cover that up with some Ken Burns magic. (Panning over a picture makes it a movie!) But most of it is there.

Then it was just on and on. I ended up passing through Calais. There was a star fort there that would have been fun to see, but I had to push on. I was trying to get to Dunkerque. As the sun set though, I realized that wasn't going to happen. I did find a camping spot that was open. Whew. Took a shower and went to bed.

-Dravis.

Dieppe to Berck - Day 56

Date: October 13th, 2009
Distance: 110 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Walking By - Something Corporate

Woke up and had a nice continental breakfast. Not as heavy as a "full english", but still nice and filling. Fresh and dried fruit. Yogurt and bread. Mmmm. Plus orange juice. It was great. My hosts even gave me a bit of extra stuff to take with me. Cookies, a bananna and a juice box. How sweet is that. So thank you to the propriators of the Chambres D'Hotes.

Oh, and Dieppe is a beautiful city. Really quite nice. Of course not everyone has had such a pleasant reception. Still I highly recommend a visit. The church there is really pretty. Not as big as some of the cathedrals I have seen, but the detail work is amazing.

From there it was up along the coast. All day. Still more wind. I don't know. I thought going the other direction would me a tail wind. But I guess not.

I new I wasn't going to get to Calais in one day. So I decided to stop around Berck. It seemed a little over half way. There were a bunch of campings in town but they all seemed closed. I asked a guy on the street (also on a bike) if he knew where one was. He didn't speak any English, I speak only a little French. So he decided to take me to the places he knew. How amazing is that?

I guess that is the thing. The French are amazingly pleasant. Outside of Paris that is. It isn't that people in Paris are mean so much. I think they are just bored and annoyed with all the tourists. Outside of Paris people are so happy to help out tourists. When my host this morning asked me where I was from, and I said the US, she was so excited. She started yelling at her husband in the other room, something liek "We had an American staying with us."

So yeah, the third place my guide led me to happened to be open. How cool is it that he tried three places? So I got a place to stay. Then went to McDonald's again. Yes, still lame. But I was hungry and needed internet. I didn't have time to post. But I did want to check out some camping sites and hostels in cities I would be going to.

From there I had to hurry back and get a shower. Then it was off to bed.

-Dravis

??? - Dieppe - Day 55

Date: October 12th, 2009
Distance:
158
Country: France
Song of the Day: The Song is Over - The Who

Woke up in the woods. I am still glad no one has yet accosted me while I am in my tent. I really prefer a good camping site. Packed up, and was on the road by 10:00. I did stop for a bit to rig up a cradle for holding my GPS. (Oh, that was the other annoying thing about the previous night. I had to use one hand to hold the GPS.) Much better.

The direction I was going however was not. It was right into the wind. What a pain. The wind wasn't amazingly strong either. But it just sucked out all your umph. It was also a section of country full of rolling hills. The top of the hill would usually block the wind. That meant you had to be going up it, though, which is slow. Then at the top, the wind would be back, so going down wasn't easy. Just lame all day.

I really wanted to get to Dieppe by the end of the day. So I kept pushing on. I got there just as the sun set. But I didn't know the location of a campsite. I asked a couple of people, but there wasn't anything close. So I ended up finding a nice bed and breakfast. The couple who ran it were very nice. It is more expensive than camping. Still a warm bed and a hearty breakfast are hard to pass up. Also I wanted to use their internet to find camping spots along my journey.

-Dravis

Paris to ??? - Day 54

Date: October 11th, 2009
Distance: 56km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Here - VAST

Today I got up and and went to Church. I could have probably used the time for other things, like sleeping or leaving sooner (which did become a problem later on). But attending the service today felt good. Connecting with other people of faith. This trip is not just a physical journey. It is mental journey as well. What do I do with my life now? The possibilities are neigh onto endless (I have given up on being Pope though.) I just need to decide what I want. What do I want to do? Doctor? Lawyer? Engineer? Who do I want to spend my life with? Where do I want to live. For most of these I really don't have a good answer. So a little divine assistance couldn't hurt. Anyway, enough spirituality.

After that I went back to meet up with Alexandra and Zaheer. I even took them out to lunch, which was only fair. I had been staying with them (and eating their food) for the better part of a week. So I was glad to repay them somehow. Also, I finally got to sit out at a cafe in Paris. (As a bonus, there wasn't anyone smoking around.) Then we took a walk around the 3rd (arrondissement). Zaheer and Alexandra are looking for a new place. But because of their work schedules they can only see them after dark. So they wanted to get a peek in daylight. We walked over to the canal en-route to two places they were going to see later. Paris is a pretty city. A lot of the architecture is just wonderful.

Back at their place, I got packed up and said goodbye. To Alexandra and Zaheer, you guys were wonderful. Thank you so much.

By this time it was about 5:00 though. So I didn't know how far out of town I was going to make it. I thought with the new GPS unit it would be easy. I must remember that it takes a long time getting into and out of cities. Even if you have good directions (which I did) there are still traffic and lights to deal with. I was also fighting with the GPS for a bit. At first it thought I was a car. So it kept trying to push me onto the freeway. I finally got that sorted out, but now it thought I was a bicycle scared of cars. So it was now leading me on crazy routes avoiding any high traffic (direct) routes.

By the time I got this all figured out, it was dark and I knew I wasn't going to get to my campsite that night. I stopped at another McDonalds to try and locate another one. There was one 20km away, another hour or more in the dark. I decided to head out. It was raining lightly when I left. Half an hour later it was just pouring. I pulled off the highway onto some unused trail. I could tell it was unused even in the dark because I ran through a patch of nettles (ouch). So I just pitched the tent in the woods (not in a patch of nettles) to get out of the rain.

-Dravis

Paris - Day 53

Date: October 10th, 2009
Distance: None
Country: France
Song of the Day: Glory Box - Portishead

Today started out with me running errands. I did stop by Notre Dame again. This time I figured out that you could just go in the big front doors. So I did. Wow, what a place. When you walk in you can see and smell hundreds of years of incense soaked into the walls. Plus the stained glass is gorgeous. I would also recommend walking around and looking at the little chaples. This is where you can see some of the wall paintings. This was lost in most of the english churches because of the reformation.

After that, I went over and a got a European map for my GPS unit. That should be very helpful. Right after I put the map in, my GPS wouldn't turn on. I was a little worried that I had just paid for a map right as my GPS died. But it just needed a couple of new batteries. I also picked up my camera adapter. So I will be posting pictures again.

After that I met back up with Zaheer. He had a plan for the evening. First we met up with some friends. Mark, who I had met my first night, and his girlfriend were there. Two of her friends showed up a bit later. We went to a place for a nice, if a bit pricey, dinner. I guess the place was known for its steaks. The menu said they came from Wichita Kansas though. Seemed a bit silly to travel 8000 miles only to get a steak for Kansas. Instead I had boeuf bourguignon. (I admit this beef might have also been from Kansas). It was good, but just like beef strew my grandmother used to make. I was expecting something a little more.. French?

Then we went over to a club called the Showcase. I was wearing my convertible shorts when I walked up. The bouncer told me I couldn't get in because of them. Fortunately I had brought the legs along. So I just zipped them on. The bouncer was just dumbstruck, so I got in. Zaheer and Mark were quite impressed. I think it made their night.

The place itself was pretty cool. It is actually under Pont Alexandre III, a bridge over the Seine. (Not under water, though. Just about level with the river.) It was done up pretty well too. But they were charging 12 euro for a drink. Egads. I know people buy them to impress everyone with the money they are wasting. "Look how cool I am. I just spent way to much for a drink." Lame. I just wish I could get a discount for not wanting to impress anyone.

One of Zaheer's friends was playing in a band called Minnie Moskowitz. They had a pretty interesting lineup. Four girls for lead singer, bass, keyboard and flute. The only guy in the band was their drummer. All in all, not bad. I still didn't think they quite "hit" it, if that makes sense. Then again, it could have just been the accoustics in the place.

Sadly, Zaheer and I had to leave early (just after midnight, if you call that early). Alexandra was just had gotten back to town and would need keys to the apartment. So we headed back. I did a bit of laundry and after Alexandra got in, then called it a night.

-Dravis

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Museum Funnies or Fine Art with Captions

Well, I told you when I got the cable I would post some pictures. These are a couple of things from the Louvre or the d'Orsay that I thought were funny with the right caption. Hope you like them.

-Dravis


"I am going to call this gladiator Blazer."


"Pardon me old boy, I seem to have lost a pair of knives..." (I like the ennui of the guy on the Left.)


"Oops, dearie. You need a bit of an adjustment. Let me get that for you."



"Yeah, I just got the new III-G version of the iScroll.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Paris - Day 52

Date: October 9th, 2009
Distance:
None
Country: France
Song of the Day: Absinthe Party at the Fly Honey Warehouse - Minus the Bear (Yeah, this one is all about being in Paris. Just great to have stuck in your head all day.)

Today I did more tourist stuff in Paris. Let me begin by explaining that Paris just has a way of sucking money out of you. It does it in quite subtle ways though. Unlike Las Vegas, which seems more like a leech, Paris is more like a mosquito. You don't really notice how much you have spent until later. Then it starts to itch. You think, damn where did all that money go.

So first, I tell you don't forget to haggle. If there is no price listed, then it isn't set in stone. Bargain with the proprietor of the shop. Even if he says no, there is always another one. Plus walking out is a good tactic. Then again, I haven't taken my own advice much, but I really think I should have. So I itch to go back and haggle with over a couple of purchases.

Second, if there is a price marked, don't be afraid to walk away if it is too much. There are cheap places to get stuff if you know where to look. Supermarkets, which are a little more rare than the little bodegas, are much less expensive. Look around for them, and keep in mind where they are.

Finally, this is Paris. Some things are just going to be expensive. Just remember that spending too much is all part of the fun. If you do, I would suggest you make it worth your while. Sit out at a cafe. (Avoid the smokers who now also crowd outside though.) Or eat an expensive croissant while walking along the Seine. Remember to experience the shit out of whatever you are doing. If you are going to pay Paris prices, enjoy it with Paris enthusiasm.

So today I went to the Notre Dame cathedral. Lacking a hump, I didn't actually venture up into the bell tower though. I did go into the crypt nearby. Really it is just an ancient section of the city that was unearthed. Plus it covers early roman to the romantic periods of the city's history. Plus somehow I got to get in for free. Yay.

From there I went to the Musée d'Orsay. They have a collection of more modern art than the Louvre. Still, very cool. I still like the more realistic styles, but the more impressionist stuff was cool. I like Monet, but I was amazed that Pissarro did seem to look much brighter in a lot of ways. Also, Sisley was good. I guess I don't see why Monet is the only one who is widely known. For the Post-impressionists, I did like the work of Luce. Though I still don't really care for Van Gogh, it was clear from the collection there that he was an amazing artist. See, this is what happens. You go to Paris, and find that you actually have opinions about art.

I think my favorite work from the d'Orsay was a painting called Le Rêve, from Édouard Detaille. It was the only one of his they had, but I couldn't stop staring at it. (Matt's First Principle on Art is: Good art is something that is always interesting to look at.) I really suggest that you follow the link and have a look yourself.

After that I headed over to the Musée Rodin museum. The museum has Rodin's "The Thinker" and other sculptures. After being accused of just copying a human, in "The Age of Bronze" sculpture, he seems to have gone the other way. After that his works have done for sculpture what the impressionists did for painting. His later works don't have the realism of a Michaelangelo, but they convey the same feeling. Basically, looking past the reality to see the emotion behind it. Cool stuff.

From there it was down the road to the Eiffel Tower. Yeah, I know it is touristy, buy what the hell. Plus, the tower itself is a great piece of engineering, and I love that. You don't realize how thin it really looks until you are actually up in it. Plus it has a grate view of the city. I guess it was supposed to cost €14 to get up to the top. Somehow I did it in two sections, one ticket to get to the second terrace for €3.50, and another to get to the top for €5.00. Man I love saving money.

From there I got caught for a bit in another rainstorm. There was one crash of thunder, but that was it. Because I was so close to the tower I was hoping to see some strikes. But alas, it was only the one thunderclap. I ended up taking shelter in the American Cathedral in Paris. I guess they were having a big dinner there. The Dean was out there welcoming people to shelter out of the rain though. I appreciated that, and will try to get back for a service on Sunday.

After the rain had abated a bit, I went over to the Sony store to pick up my camera adapter. They were closed though. So I headed back to the flat to meet up with Zaheer. We went out for Pizza and then a glass of wine while talking about life, religion, history, and politics. He is a great guy to talk to. Or maybe (if it doesn't sound too egotistical) he reminds me of me. Too smart to accept the party line, but not too jaded to enjoy life, and hopeful enough to know that whatever happens will be great.

-Dravis

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Paris - Day 51

Date: October 8th, 2009
Distance:
None
Country: France
Song of the Day: Fists Up - The Blow

Got up today and saw Alexandra off. She is heading off to England to stay at the farm. I guess her folks are coming in. So it will be me and Zaheer here at the flat in Paris for the next couple of days.

Today my plan was to go to the Louvre. All day. So let me start of by talking about the place. It is really the Palace of the Louvre. And it is massive. Just a huge place. Frankly, it looks like the sole reason that France kept losing wars in the 17th and 18th centuries. Or another way to look at it is that it was the cause of the Revolution. You can just see Louis XVI going, "Hmmm, the peasants are mad enough. Could they be starved a bit more if we expanded that wing? Maybe add a third floor? Oh yes, they are quite pissed now."

How they got the people of France to pay for it, I will never know. It makes the recent british scandal of moat cleaning fees look like chump change. The kings must have been able to sell snow globes to eskimos. Or possibly guiotines to rioters. "Guillotines. Get your guillotines. Can't start a reign of terror without a guillotine. Robespierre, you look like you need one. I think we would both benefit from one of these babies." Marie Antoinette is there rolling her eyes, "I just have a feeling this is going to come back to bite us."

I just can't see how this would be a residence, either. Opulent yes, but how would you ever find anything? You can just image conversations "Dear, have you seen my keys?" "Have you tried the other room?" "There are three hundred rooms here. Which GOD-DAMNED ONE?" Guests would get lost and have to start eating each other to survive. I guess that is the way to impress foreign dignitaries. You can hear one of the Hapsburgs were saying, "Oh yes, the French are so powerful. My cousin went there, got lost for three months and had to eat his valet." That is just how big it is. Okay, enough silliness.

Once you are inside, it is just as amazing. Because they have filled that huge palace with fabulous works of art. Trying to see it all is like trying to drink culture from a fire hose. You find some masterwork and want to take it all in. Really you should just spend 20 minutes or so looking at it. But there is another masterwork right next to it. So you keep going. It was actually helpful that all the information about the paintings was in french. I could get the artist and possibly the name of the picture. But I really didn't spend much time reading the history of the painting. Just looking at the paintings and sculptures.

For the paintings I really liked Pierre Patel and Pannini. Both of whom seem to share my passion for ruins. Auguste Biard is good, and Canaletto. I also enjoyed Salvator Rosa and François-Joseph Navez. Plus some of the Dutch masters were good. I could go on for a while, but you get the point.

And yes I did see the Mona Lisa. It actually wasn't all that fun to see. Everyone was held pretty far back so you didn't get a great look. It wasn't as small as everyone had made it out to be. Then again it was sitting across from a huge painting by Veronese. The painting is something like you could commission to cover up a huge hole in the wall if you had accidentally fired off your new cannon inside the villa and your wife was coming back. "Veronese, yeah, this is Giorgio. Got a little problem. The misses will be back next week and I have a 14 foot hole in the wall. Can you make somethign that will cover that?" So back to my original point, the Mona Lisa may just look smaller in comparison.

Actually, there are four other Da Vincis in the Great Gallery. Much more fun to look at, in that you can actually get close. Look at the find detail, then step back again. Much better. Plus you aren't as mobbed by tourists.

The place was packed with people by the way. I don't know if there really is an off season here. So be prepared for crouds. For some reason people try to get a picture of everything they see. I don't understand it. No one wants to see your out of focus pictures of a Rembrandt. If you like an artist, get a book of their work. Also, taking a pictures of your wife in front of a fuzzy blob that might be a Botticelli will also get old.

Now, I will admit that I did break this rule on a few occasions. When I get my adapter I will try and post them. A couple of paintings, I felt, needed a caption. So I will post those tomorrow or something and see what you think.

Let me tell you, it does make for a hell of a day. It really was an all day museum affair. There were teenagers at the end of the day looking more bored and tired than during a lecture on participles. For those with young kids, under 12, leave them at home. For anyone with older kids, or who wasn't determined to go the whole day the Louvre, just do half a day. Pick what you want to see, then go elsewhere. If you really want to, you can come back on another day. For me, by the end my feet were hurting and I was pretty tired.

I ended up back at the Flat with some Chinese food and did some good sitting.

-Dravis

Paris - Day 50

Date: October 7th, 2009
Distance:
None
Country: France
Song of the Day: Sons & Daughters - The Decemberists

First morning in Paris, and I had a wonderful lazy morning. Had breakfast and talked a bit more with Alexandra. She was working 6:00 PM to 1:00 AM, so she had most of the day off.

We also went out to pick up a couple of things at the market. Paris has lots of cute little shops for a specific type of item. Like a butcher's shop or bakery. Parisians don't seem to have the huge fridges like in the US. They just pick up stuff for dinner on the way home. So living in the city would be kind of neat for getting to know the local shops. Getting fresh meat or vegatables or whenever when you needed it.

Then I went out to take a walk around the city. Taking a stroll along the Seine is well worth it. Seeing the book sellers with their little cabinets attached to the railing is cool. Plus the city is wonderful architecturally. Knowing the history, is is pretty amazing that it is still intact. There were a few different occasions where Paris was going to be bombed or blown up, but somehow escaped that fate. I guess the biggest destruction to the city came from its own planner, Baron Haussman. (Seems like Robert Moses to me...) So yeah, the city is beautiful.

I walked through the Jardin des Tuileries. Then down the Champs-Elysees.The first half is a bit like the capitol mall in Washington D.C., but with a giant thoroughfare through it. When the park ends the street is lined with really high end shops.

At the end of the Champs-Elysees is the Arc de Triomphe. It sits at the center of a giant roundabout with five or six lanes going around it. I had a hell of a time trying to figure out how to get over there. Then I realized there was a tunnel under the street. Much nicer than trying to play frogger with Parisian traffic. I guess you can go up into the Arc, but they wanted €32 for it. I was happy just to walk around the bottom and look up at it. So I can sign that one off my list.

I did go to the Sony store since I was in the neighborhood. I wanted to pick up the adapter that I had lost. They didn't have one, which I was afraid of. The were able to order it however. I guess it will be in on Friday. So I can start posting picures again. It did end up costing me €57! I wanted to roll up a newspaper and smack them while saying "No. Bad company. Bad." The guy helping me out was very nice, and it is not like it was his fault it had been designed for that stupid adapter. Plus it was my fault for loosing the damn thing. So I swallowed that bitter pill and paid them the money. Oh well, life is too short to spend too much time moaning about stuff like money.

I went back and met up with Alexandra again. She was getting ready for work but had enough time to help me out with a project. I wanted to get a zipper to help pick-pocked proof my pants. We ended up at a department store having what she called a usual Parisian customer service experience. The register upstairs was closed because the lady was going through the reciepts and could not be bothered to ring anyone up. The registers downstairs were open, but they wouldn't accept any of the stuff from upstairs. So I couldn't buy the zipper. What a way to run a store.

After that I wandered by the Bastile, and down the arches. This was a former elevated railroad bed made up of a number of brick archways. It is now a park on top and little gallery spaced underneath in the arches. That is where I got caught out in the thunderstorm. So the pouring rain was a bit annoying, but it was warm rain. So the wet just bothered me a bit. I consoled myself by watching the lightning flash over the city. (I didn't see it strike anywhere. It was just flashing up in the clouds.) I would have paid serious money to be on the Eiffel Tower for it though. Being soaking wet, watching the flashes and hearing the crash of thunder, what an experience.

I then went out to a cafe with Zaheer, Alexandra's boyfriend. He is a cool guy. We had a fun time. I ordered Boeuf Carpaccio, which is thinly sliced raw beef. I normally wouldn't have ordered raw meet, but I had a couple of reasons for doing so. First, I figured they probably wouldn't sell it if it was going to kill me. Second, I am on this trip to try new things, and this would be part of that. (Mark, this one was for you.) Finally, I want to have the toughest immune system, and what better way then to eat raw meat? So after all the explination, it was actually really tasty, and I don't seem to be any worse for the wear.

So first full day in Paris, quite pleasant.

-Dravis