Date: March 29th, 2010
Distance: 83km
Country: Sierra Leone
Song of the Day: Put it Behind You - Keane
Woke up not well rested at all. It was still too hot in my tent. Plus I kept waking up thinking a mosquito was biting me. When I would wake up in the night, I could see dozens of them hanging onto the netting waiting for their chance to get in. I hate mosquitoes.
I also had a bit of a stomach ache. First time that has happened in nearly 4 months in Africa. Maybe I finally picked up a bug. Still, I didn't feel like vomiting. Just didn't feel good. I ate a mango hoping that would help. Not really.
There was no bread in the village so I had to head off without a good solid breakfast. I did get to the next town and get some stuff to eat. From there it was just a miserable struggle all day. The only thing that seemed to make it better was caffinated softdrinks. I didn't feel much like eating, but I promised myself a cola every 25km. That seemed to work. Still, not the most fun I have had here.
After the town of Waterloo, the traffic also got heavier. A lot of it was made up of mini-buses. Near the capital, there appears to be a pretty even mixture between christians and muslims. A competition, it seems, is being played out in hand painted slogans on these mini-buses. Often, "God is Great", or "Allah is One". (I suppose these won out over the less popular "God is Nifty" and "Allah is my Homeboy".) These are often juxtiposed with stickers of Madonna, who I never thought of as a promoter of any religion. (I am talking about the pop star here, not the Virgin Mother.) Some of the slogans are a little more down to earth, like "No food for a lazy man". I thought the "No money, No friends" one was a bit harsh.
By the time I reached Freetown, I was feeling a bit better. The city itself really is quite strange and exotic. It is set between a couple of hills and the sea. The little shanties are built onto the highest and steepest slopes. In the center are some reasonably modern buildings. They are surrounded by a collection of simple concrete block houses, shanties, and old colonial buildings. Everywhere traffic and people are moving by. It is quite chaotic. It is beautiful in its own strange way.
While looking around for a guesthouse to stay at, I met up with a local cyclist. He said he would take me to a good safe place. Sadly this set off an hour and a half foray around the eastern part of the city. First we had to meet with a friend and get some advice. Then he took me to his place and invited me to stay with him. I appreciated the offer, but really just wanted my own room to stay in. All I wanted to do was take a nap.
Finally we got to a local hotel. My guide was pretty straight saying that I was a friend and needed to be taken care of. That seemed to work on the staff. They went right away. Got me new sheets. Fixed up the mosquito net. The works. Once I was taken care of, my guide left me. I took a shower, and yes, did get my nap.
My guide said he would be back later on to take me for dinner sometime around 8:00. By 8:45 he hadn't showed up, so I asked at the reception for a good place to eat and headed off on my own. Because of the stomach issues, I just wanted something simple. Spaghetti. It took me a few tries to find, but finally I got it. The place didn't have much left though. So I tried something else, panckakes. Nothing like the version back home. The pan-fried sweet bread was really good though. I had a few helping of that.
On my way back to the hotel my guide met me on the street. He was worried that something had happened to me. I am not sure why. I have been through 18 different countries. I can handle myself. Still we agreed to meet up the following day, and he could help me find the embassy for Mali.
-Dravis
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Makeni to Musamilla - Day 222
Date: March 28th, 2010
Distance: 106km
Country: Sierra Leone
Song of the Day: Who's Gonna Ride Your Wild Horses - U2
Woke up and tried getting out as fast as possible. Still, that wasn't too good. I did get on the road before 10:00 though. I knew I wasn't going to make Freetown in one day. So I figured as much as I could do, would mean less to do tomorrow.
The first 50 kilometers were amazingly flat. Yeah, a few hills here and there. Nothing bad though. I had left the forested hills and was now in a rolling grassland. It did remind me of the midwest back in the states. The only difference, no farms. I am not sure what the deal is with that. Maybe there is something I am missing, but it seems like a perfect area for agriculture. I don't know why it is going unused.
I was having a bit of an issue with the headwind. It wasn't that strong though, so I was still making good time. Later in the afternoon, by the time I turned off to head to Freetown, it had picked up significantly. That really put a crimp in my evening. I was hoping to make another 20km, but it didn't happen.
Instead I found the village of Musamilla. They had a pump well, so I could get water. It was locked up for the night, but they were kind enough to unlock it so I could get some water. I also asked if I could stay in the village. Fortuneteller the chief was there and said it was okay. It took a little while to explain that I had a tent, and didn't need a place inside to stay. (I would rather stay in my cool, bugless tent anyway.) At first he said that I could stay at the market. The ground there was hard packed and covered in trash though. They did have a soccer field right behind it though. So that is where I camped.
I was a big hit with the village. Really, people are bored here. So twenty or thirty people watched as I set up my tent and cooked my dinner. Excitement. I wasn't all that happy to be outside though. I was being eaten alive by mosquitoes. The last few days have been pretty light on them. I couldn't wait to zip into my tent. I had to chase the spectators off before I headed to bed, though.
Sadly once I got into be I found I had let a few mosquitoes in. So I spent a while killing them. It isn't a big tent, but someone I got the feeling I hadn't found them all. So I went to sleep feeling a bit uneasy.
-Dravis
Distance: 106km
Country: Sierra Leone
Song of the Day: Who's Gonna Ride Your Wild Horses - U2
Woke up and tried getting out as fast as possible. Still, that wasn't too good. I did get on the road before 10:00 though. I knew I wasn't going to make Freetown in one day. So I figured as much as I could do, would mean less to do tomorrow.
The first 50 kilometers were amazingly flat. Yeah, a few hills here and there. Nothing bad though. I had left the forested hills and was now in a rolling grassland. It did remind me of the midwest back in the states. The only difference, no farms. I am not sure what the deal is with that. Maybe there is something I am missing, but it seems like a perfect area for agriculture. I don't know why it is going unused.
I was having a bit of an issue with the headwind. It wasn't that strong though, so I was still making good time. Later in the afternoon, by the time I turned off to head to Freetown, it had picked up significantly. That really put a crimp in my evening. I was hoping to make another 20km, but it didn't happen.
Instead I found the village of Musamilla. They had a pump well, so I could get water. It was locked up for the night, but they were kind enough to unlock it so I could get some water. I also asked if I could stay in the village. Fortuneteller the chief was there and said it was okay. It took a little while to explain that I had a tent, and didn't need a place inside to stay. (I would rather stay in my cool, bugless tent anyway.) At first he said that I could stay at the market. The ground there was hard packed and covered in trash though. They did have a soccer field right behind it though. So that is where I camped.
I was a big hit with the village. Really, people are bored here. So twenty or thirty people watched as I set up my tent and cooked my dinner. Excitement. I wasn't all that happy to be outside though. I was being eaten alive by mosquitoes. The last few days have been pretty light on them. I couldn't wait to zip into my tent. I had to chase the spectators off before I headed to bed, though.
Sadly once I got into be I found I had let a few mosquitoes in. So I spent a while killing them. It isn't a big tent, but someone I got the feeling I hadn't found them all. So I went to sleep feeling a bit uneasy.
-Dravis
Kamabai to Makeni - Day 221
Date: March 27th, 2010
Distance: 38km
Country: Sierra Leone
Woke up not feeling rested at all. It was way to hot in Lamin's place. I should have set up my tent outside. That would at least have cooled down at night. Plus I wouldn't have been molested by bugs all night. For once mosquitoes weren't a problem. It was ants. Tiny ones too. They were crawling all over me. I woke up every couple of minutes or so to brush them off my arms or legs. Not a great way to sleep. So I was glad to be up early and on the road.
I had a bit of breakfast, said goodbye to Lamin, and headed out. Fortuneteller it was only a short day. There were a few rolling hills along the way, but nothing major. I was into the city of Makeni before noon.
By that point it was hot, and I was out of energy. I stopped to eat one of my mangoes before going on. While I was waiting there I started talking with a guy who said he knew a place I could stay. It was just up the way, and he could show me. That meant a 20 minute walk pushing the bike uphill in the brutal heat. Finally I couldn't take it and said I could get there faster on the bike. When I did get to the place it turns out to be the most expensive hotel in the city. The prices weren't even in Leones, the local currency. They were in U.S. Dollars. Urgh.
So I headed back into the city. I didn't know where to go, but while I was riding I saw a lady selling a delicious looking hamburger. So I stopped to eat that. Turns out, it was nothing like what I expected. The burger consisted of a bun with spaghetti, potatoes, lettuce, cucumber, fried plantain, a hardboiled egg, a bit of tuna, and all topped with mayo and ketchup. It was amazing. I decided I should come back for dinner.
While I was there, I got directions from some of the guys hanging out for a place to stay. The Northern Motel as it turned out wasn't a bad place. Actually, it looked like a nice place at some point. The years haven't been good to it, or most of the city for that matter. Many of the pipes for water are still in place, but haven't worked in years. The fixtures, the sink for instance, appear to have been sold off along the way. The drooping city power lines still connect to the building. They just no longer have any electricity. That is provided by a generator for a few hours a night. Still, it was cheap, clean, and safe. No complaints from me.
I spent the afternoon doing some laundry. I know I am not very good at hand washing. I usually end up paying someone else to do it. Still I wanted something to do in the early afternoon. While I was washing a couple of girls came up to talk with me. One of them told me that her sister loved me. Which I think is quite a trick, since we had never spoken. (I guess that puts me firmly in the camp against love at first sight.) I know the (white) girls I have talked to here say they get marriage proposals all the time. I guess this is the other way around.
After the laundry was finished I took a walk around the town. It was much cooler in the afternoon, and a thick layer of clouds came over. So I took a stroll through the market. I wasn't sure that I really wanted anything. I just wanted to see the place. I do like the hustle and bustle of the commerce going on. While I was there I bought a few things to snack on. The had something akin to peanut-brittle.
For dinner I did go back to the lady selling hamburgers. She was out of those, but made a plate with basically the same stuff over a bed of "chuck". This is ground up kasava. It looks a lot like coos-coos. Still, very tasty. I also found a couple of kids down the street selling what they touted as "ice-cream". It tasted more like frozen peach yogurt. Not that I minded. It was good.
I got back to the hotel just before dark and took in the laundry. It wasn't really dry, but I thought I could take it into the room. I was hoping the evaporation could cool off the room a little. Boy am I glad I did. About 10 minutes later it just started pouring rain. I wasn't expecting that.
Once the power came on, I started a little sewing project. My cycling shorts keep slipping down while I ride. Let this be a lesson to you. Never buy clothes that fit when you are fat and lazy, then spend 7 months cycling around in them. Doesn't work well. So I took the shorts in about 2 inches on each side. That worked out really well when I tried them on. I can't wait to use them tomorrow.
I think I should also retract a statement I made in a previous blog post. I said that because I was traveling I couldn't set up where I was living the way I wanted. This isn't precisely true. I spent probably a third or more of most days on the bike. So I can make that the way I want it, like I did with the water bottle holder in Labe. Also my clothes. I can get them the way I want. So I do have some things I can fix up the way I like.
-Dravis
Distance: 38km
Country: Sierra Leone
Woke up not feeling rested at all. It was way to hot in Lamin's place. I should have set up my tent outside. That would at least have cooled down at night. Plus I wouldn't have been molested by bugs all night. For once mosquitoes weren't a problem. It was ants. Tiny ones too. They were crawling all over me. I woke up every couple of minutes or so to brush them off my arms or legs. Not a great way to sleep. So I was glad to be up early and on the road.
I had a bit of breakfast, said goodbye to Lamin, and headed out. Fortuneteller it was only a short day. There were a few rolling hills along the way, but nothing major. I was into the city of Makeni before noon.
By that point it was hot, and I was out of energy. I stopped to eat one of my mangoes before going on. While I was waiting there I started talking with a guy who said he knew a place I could stay. It was just up the way, and he could show me. That meant a 20 minute walk pushing the bike uphill in the brutal heat. Finally I couldn't take it and said I could get there faster on the bike. When I did get to the place it turns out to be the most expensive hotel in the city. The prices weren't even in Leones, the local currency. They were in U.S. Dollars. Urgh.
So I headed back into the city. I didn't know where to go, but while I was riding I saw a lady selling a delicious looking hamburger. So I stopped to eat that. Turns out, it was nothing like what I expected. The burger consisted of a bun with spaghetti, potatoes, lettuce, cucumber, fried plantain, a hardboiled egg, a bit of tuna, and all topped with mayo and ketchup. It was amazing. I decided I should come back for dinner.
While I was there, I got directions from some of the guys hanging out for a place to stay. The Northern Motel as it turned out wasn't a bad place. Actually, it looked like a nice place at some point. The years haven't been good to it, or most of the city for that matter. Many of the pipes for water are still in place, but haven't worked in years. The fixtures, the sink for instance, appear to have been sold off along the way. The drooping city power lines still connect to the building. They just no longer have any electricity. That is provided by a generator for a few hours a night. Still, it was cheap, clean, and safe. No complaints from me.
I spent the afternoon doing some laundry. I know I am not very good at hand washing. I usually end up paying someone else to do it. Still I wanted something to do in the early afternoon. While I was washing a couple of girls came up to talk with me. One of them told me that her sister loved me. Which I think is quite a trick, since we had never spoken. (I guess that puts me firmly in the camp against love at first sight.) I know the (white) girls I have talked to here say they get marriage proposals all the time. I guess this is the other way around.
After the laundry was finished I took a walk around the town. It was much cooler in the afternoon, and a thick layer of clouds came over. So I took a stroll through the market. I wasn't sure that I really wanted anything. I just wanted to see the place. I do like the hustle and bustle of the commerce going on. While I was there I bought a few things to snack on. The had something akin to peanut-brittle.
For dinner I did go back to the lady selling hamburgers. She was out of those, but made a plate with basically the same stuff over a bed of "chuck". This is ground up kasava. It looks a lot like coos-coos. Still, very tasty. I also found a couple of kids down the street selling what they touted as "ice-cream". It tasted more like frozen peach yogurt. Not that I minded. It was good.
I got back to the hotel just before dark and took in the laundry. It wasn't really dry, but I thought I could take it into the room. I was hoping the evaporation could cool off the room a little. Boy am I glad I did. About 10 minutes later it just started pouring rain. I wasn't expecting that.
Once the power came on, I started a little sewing project. My cycling shorts keep slipping down while I ride. Let this be a lesson to you. Never buy clothes that fit when you are fat and lazy, then spend 7 months cycling around in them. Doesn't work well. So I took the shorts in about 2 inches on each side. That worked out really well when I tried them on. I can't wait to use them tomorrow.
I think I should also retract a statement I made in a previous blog post. I said that because I was traveling I couldn't set up where I was living the way I wanted. This isn't precisely true. I spent probably a third or more of most days on the bike. So I can make that the way I want it, like I did with the water bottle holder in Labe. Also my clothes. I can get them the way I want. So I do have some things I can fix up the way I like.
-Dravis
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Kabala to Kamabai - Day 220
Date: March 26th, 2010
Distance: 83km
Country: Guinea
I woke up and got ready. Konday came by with a big sack of mangoes. He said he would get some for the morning, but I was thinking just a couple. There were more than twenty of them. Being hungry, as usual, we had a couple of mangoes before heading out. I think these are the best mangoes I have ever had. So juicy, and the fruit just seems to fall off the pit.
If you can, do yourself a favor. Go pick up a mango or two at the store. Give yourself a little treat, and enjoy the sweet life for a bit. Then wash up. Eating a mango always seems to be a messy business.
After the mangoes, Konday and I headed out. We found a place to change money, but I took a bigger hit on the exchange rate than I was expecting. Damn. Not much to be done about it though.
From there we headed over to the immigration office. Konday also explained a little bit about local governance. The local area is apparently run by a Paramount Chief. This is a hereditary, elected position. I didn't understand that at first either. To run for the office you have to trace your lineage back to a previous Chief of the tribe. Since the families are pretty large here it doesn't seem like they have a problem finding candidates. Once elected though you are Paramount Chief for life. So I think the position is a little like a governor back in the states.
Anyway, got to the immigration office. It turns out they didn't have the stamp either. The head guy was out and had taken it with him. So I had to get another pass to get me down to Freetown and get the entry stamp. Urgh. Plus the guy wanted "compensation". I am sorry, but this is your job. If you don't like it, or don't think you are being paid enough, you have to deal with that. I won't give out bribes. The guy didn't seem angry about not getting the money. More like silly tourist doesn't understand the country. Oh well.
After that I went back to the guesthouse and got all my stuff ready. I went over to
Konday's house to say goodbye to him and his wife. Thanks you guys!
Sadly I didn't get on the rode until 12:30. By this point it was pretty hot. The sun is still being shaded a bit by clouds or dust. (I can't tell.) I did what I could, but I knew I wasn't going to make it Makeni, the next big city. I decided to try and make it as far as I could. Then the trip to Makeni would be easy.
I wasn't quite sure where I was going to stay though. I really wouldn't feel that uncomfortable sleeping out in the bush here, except for one thing. Brush fires. I have gone through a number of them in the last couple of days. So I was hoping to find a village to stay in. If I am going to stay in a village, I would like it to have a pump well. That way I can get water for drinking and washing.
Just as it was getting dark I found the village of Kamabai. I was stopped at the police station and started talking with the police constable, Lamin. He said there wasn't a guesthouse in the village, but I could stay at the police station. So I was staying at another police station. Actually, I was staying at the police barracks with Lamin. There was no spare room, just a guy being nice.
He also got me some water to wash up. I took a bucket shower out in front of the police barracks in the moonlight. I thought it was a bit weird to be in my birthday suit at the police station. I can't imagine that going very well back home. Here though, things are a bit different. Nudity doesn't seem to be that big a deal. People still bathe in rivers and streams along the road. Adults and children alike. Earlier in the day I had seen a man washing in front of his house. Nobody on the street seemed to mind. Also, because of the heat, women seem as likely as men to go topless. Later, when I went to get dinner, the woman behind the counter only had on a small towel slung over one shoulder. So that is an acceptable way to be seen in public. Then again, most of the time it really isn't someone who you would actually want to see topless.
After my shower, I wanted to go find some food. Lamin, my host, took me to the center part of the little village. I was hoping for something good, but all they had was fried fish. I am still not a fan of the fish here. So stopped at a little shop and bought some supplies for sandwiches. Bread, some tomato paste, and a can of processed chicken meat. (Kind of like Spam, but much less salty. Also, Halal.) It was too much food for me, so I made two sandwiches, and gave one to Lamin. He got me some palm wine. I lied and said it was good. It actually tasted like drinking vinegar. Still it was a good meal.
Eventually one of the teachers in the town came up. He started asking me where I was from and so forth. Then launched into the, "I want to go to America" stuff. We are friends, I want to come visit you. Give me your address. I want to see your country. I tried to explain that I didn't have any way to get him a visa. I don't even know where to begin with that. Plus I have serious doubts the machinery of the immigration department would listen to me. Lamin seemed to understand, and tried to explain. It didn't help. I realized at that point the teacher I was talking to was probably pretty drunk.
After that I went back to Lamins quarters, unrolled my sleeping mat and went to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 83km
Country: Guinea
I woke up and got ready. Konday came by with a big sack of mangoes. He said he would get some for the morning, but I was thinking just a couple. There were more than twenty of them. Being hungry, as usual, we had a couple of mangoes before heading out. I think these are the best mangoes I have ever had. So juicy, and the fruit just seems to fall off the pit.
If you can, do yourself a favor. Go pick up a mango or two at the store. Give yourself a little treat, and enjoy the sweet life for a bit. Then wash up. Eating a mango always seems to be a messy business.
After the mangoes, Konday and I headed out. We found a place to change money, but I took a bigger hit on the exchange rate than I was expecting. Damn. Not much to be done about it though.
From there we headed over to the immigration office. Konday also explained a little bit about local governance. The local area is apparently run by a Paramount Chief. This is a hereditary, elected position. I didn't understand that at first either. To run for the office you have to trace your lineage back to a previous Chief of the tribe. Since the families are pretty large here it doesn't seem like they have a problem finding candidates. Once elected though you are Paramount Chief for life. So I think the position is a little like a governor back in the states.
Anyway, got to the immigration office. It turns out they didn't have the stamp either. The head guy was out and had taken it with him. So I had to get another pass to get me down to Freetown and get the entry stamp. Urgh. Plus the guy wanted "compensation". I am sorry, but this is your job. If you don't like it, or don't think you are being paid enough, you have to deal with that. I won't give out bribes. The guy didn't seem angry about not getting the money. More like silly tourist doesn't understand the country. Oh well.
After that I went back to the guesthouse and got all my stuff ready. I went over to
Konday's house to say goodbye to him and his wife. Thanks you guys!Sadly I didn't get on the rode until 12:30. By this point it was pretty hot. The sun is still being shaded a bit by clouds or dust. (I can't tell.) I did what I could, but I knew I wasn't going to make it Makeni, the next big city. I decided to try and make it as far as I could. Then the trip to Makeni would be easy.
I wasn't quite sure where I was going to stay though. I really wouldn't feel that uncomfortable sleeping out in the bush here, except for one thing. Brush fires. I have gone through a number of them in the last couple of days. So I was hoping to find a village to stay in. If I am going to stay in a village, I would like it to have a pump well. That way I can get water for drinking and washing.
Just as it was getting dark I found the village of Kamabai. I was stopped at the police station and started talking with the police constable, Lamin. He said there wasn't a guesthouse in the village, but I could stay at the police station. So I was staying at another police station. Actually, I was staying at the police barracks with Lamin. There was no spare room, just a guy being nice.
He also got me some water to wash up. I took a bucket shower out in front of the police barracks in the moonlight. I thought it was a bit weird to be in my birthday suit at the police station. I can't imagine that going very well back home. Here though, things are a bit different. Nudity doesn't seem to be that big a deal. People still bathe in rivers and streams along the road. Adults and children alike. Earlier in the day I had seen a man washing in front of his house. Nobody on the street seemed to mind. Also, because of the heat, women seem as likely as men to go topless. Later, when I went to get dinner, the woman behind the counter only had on a small towel slung over one shoulder. So that is an acceptable way to be seen in public. Then again, most of the time it really isn't someone who you would actually want to see topless.
After my shower, I wanted to go find some food. Lamin, my host, took me to the center part of the little village. I was hoping for something good, but all they had was fried fish. I am still not a fan of the fish here. So stopped at a little shop and bought some supplies for sandwiches. Bread, some tomato paste, and a can of processed chicken meat. (Kind of like Spam, but much less salty. Also, Halal.) It was too much food for me, so I made two sandwiches, and gave one to Lamin. He got me some palm wine. I lied and said it was good. It actually tasted like drinking vinegar. Still it was a good meal.
Eventually one of the teachers in the town came up. He started asking me where I was from and so forth. Then launched into the, "I want to go to America" stuff. We are friends, I want to come visit you. Give me your address. I want to see your country. I tried to explain that I didn't have any way to get him a visa. I don't even know where to begin with that. Plus I have serious doubts the machinery of the immigration department would listen to me. Lamin seemed to understand, and tried to explain. It didn't help. I realized at that point the teacher I was talking to was probably pretty drunk.
After that I went back to Lamins quarters, unrolled my sleeping mat and went to bed.
-Dravis
Oure Kaba to Kabala - Day 219
Date: March 25th, 2010
Distance: 91km
Country: Sierra Leone
Song of the Day: Thumbing My Way Back - Pearl Jam
I got another early start on the day. Felt good about that. I didn't feel good about turning off the nice paved road. Why do I choose these routes? Still, I was here and that was the way to go. The road the the border was pretty bad too. Still, it wasn't quite as steep or as bad as from Boke to Labe.
The other problem is that I seem to have problems with these backwoods border crossings. About 14km down the road there was a kind of barrier set up. It was just a long pole across the road. There really isn't a sign to say why it is there though. There was a guy (there is always a guy) sitting under a tree. I told him I was going to Sierra Leone. He had a couple of simple questions about where I came from and so forth. He seemed satisfied, and said that I could go. Then it was another 5km to the actual border. There is an army checkpoint there, but it turns out that they don't have the passport stamps. That was at the first barracade. The man from the checkpoint said that wasn't a problem though. I could go, just pay him 5,000 Francs. Nope.
So I headed back 5km. The same guy was sitting under a tree. I told him I needed a stamp for my passport. He told me I needed to pay 10,000 Francs for the stamp. I wasn't going to pay anyway, but why did he think I would pay him anything after he had neglected to tell me I had to get the stamp here, and therefore been responsible for me having to come back? He was still trying to argue that I should pay him when another man came up and took me to the head man at immigration. The head guy also wanted 10,000 Francs. I said I wouldn't pay and he handed my passport back. I was afraid for a minute he wouldn't give me the stamp after all. I told them I had a visa though, the had to stamp it. The assistant looked through my passport for a minute. After seeing all the visas I had, they seemed to decide I just wasn't going to pay a bribe. So I got the stamp without paying. As I passed the barricade the first guy I had spoken to was still on about the 10,000 Francs. I was glad he wasn't getting a damn dime from me. (Oh, 10,000 Francs is only about $2. Paying the bribes would probably be cheaper than getting the visa, but it is the principal of the thing.)
Then it was back to the border. The third time down that pass wasn't really a charm. It isn't like it was an easy road either. Lots of little ups and downs. I wish I had only done it once. Back at the border, I picked up some water and ate a sandwich at the army checkpoint. I told them I was going to Sierra Leone, and they didn't really care. Since I wasn't bribing them, or attacking with machine guns, they seemed content just to sit in the shade.
The road didn't get any better from there though. I don't think anyone really wants responsibility for the section between the countries. So there were a few places where I had to ford mud puddles or cross dry river beds. I had to push the bike up a few sections. Because of the sandy road I was even having a hard time doing that.
I was glad to get to the checkpoint on the Sierra Leone side. It seemed much more organized than in Guinea. (Their forms even had "Say no to corruption" marked on them.) I didn't get a stamp though. The didn't have the proper stuff at this checkpoint. So I would have to go to Kabala or Freetown in the next 48 hours to get a stamp. Well, Freetown was out, but I thought I could make it to Kabala before nightfall. I asked the guy at immigration how the roads were from here to kabala. He said they were good.
I really wouldn't use that term. Better, possibly. Not good. At most of the stream crossings along the way, the bridges were washed out. So more fording of streams or mud puddles. There were also more steep places where I also had to push the bike. So another evening spent racing the sun. Bad roads were a factor. A headwind didn't help. (How can I draw that to me so frequently?) Also, overly talkative people at the police and customs checkpoint. Thanks but, I have to go before that sun sets. Again I didn't make it.
Just after dark though, I did get to a police checkpoint. I started talking with one of the police officers there. It turns out he was just getting off work and could show me a place to stay in Kabala. He was traveling my moto-taxi, so we played leapfrog into town. I was pretty glad to have his help. I don't think I would have ever found the place. Just a simple guesthouse, but it really was a nice place.
After that, my guide, Konday, took me out to dinner. I was hoping to get my money changed over, but he said that would be no problem. The restaurant could change money. So I ordered some food. Turns out they couldn't change money. Whoops, so Konday paid for me. I don't like owing people money, so we tried to find another place to change money. I guess they were all closed for the night.
So I agreed to me Konday the next day. He also invited me over to his house to meet his wife. That sounded fine. While we were going he asked if I liked rice. Yeah, I like rice. He said we could have dinner together. On the way we stopped at a place, kind of like a bar, for some palm wine. The patrons at the place called it "African Drink". I think it is also called Poyo. I tried some. Not bad, but a little like vinegar. After Konday finished his poyo we headed over to his house. His wife had made rice with ground cassava leaves and meat. Basically, man-yawk. Very tasty.
After that I said goodbye to my guide's wife and Konday took me back to the guesthouse. We agreed to meet the next day. He could help me get money changed. Also to find the immigration office in town.
I took a quick (bucket) shower and went to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 91km
Country: Sierra Leone
Song of the Day: Thumbing My Way Back - Pearl Jam
I got another early start on the day. Felt good about that. I didn't feel good about turning off the nice paved road. Why do I choose these routes? Still, I was here and that was the way to go. The road the the border was pretty bad too. Still, it wasn't quite as steep or as bad as from Boke to Labe.
The other problem is that I seem to have problems with these backwoods border crossings. About 14km down the road there was a kind of barrier set up. It was just a long pole across the road. There really isn't a sign to say why it is there though. There was a guy (there is always a guy) sitting under a tree. I told him I was going to Sierra Leone. He had a couple of simple questions about where I came from and so forth. He seemed satisfied, and said that I could go. Then it was another 5km to the actual border. There is an army checkpoint there, but it turns out that they don't have the passport stamps. That was at the first barracade. The man from the checkpoint said that wasn't a problem though. I could go, just pay him 5,000 Francs. Nope.
So I headed back 5km. The same guy was sitting under a tree. I told him I needed a stamp for my passport. He told me I needed to pay 10,000 Francs for the stamp. I wasn't going to pay anyway, but why did he think I would pay him anything after he had neglected to tell me I had to get the stamp here, and therefore been responsible for me having to come back? He was still trying to argue that I should pay him when another man came up and took me to the head man at immigration. The head guy also wanted 10,000 Francs. I said I wouldn't pay and he handed my passport back. I was afraid for a minute he wouldn't give me the stamp after all. I told them I had a visa though, the had to stamp it. The assistant looked through my passport for a minute. After seeing all the visas I had, they seemed to decide I just wasn't going to pay a bribe. So I got the stamp without paying. As I passed the barricade the first guy I had spoken to was still on about the 10,000 Francs. I was glad he wasn't getting a damn dime from me. (Oh, 10,000 Francs is only about $2. Paying the bribes would probably be cheaper than getting the visa, but it is the principal of the thing.)
Then it was back to the border. The third time down that pass wasn't really a charm. It isn't like it was an easy road either. Lots of little ups and downs. I wish I had only done it once. Back at the border, I picked up some water and ate a sandwich at the army checkpoint. I told them I was going to Sierra Leone, and they didn't really care. Since I wasn't bribing them, or attacking with machine guns, they seemed content just to sit in the shade.
The road didn't get any better from there though. I don't think anyone really wants responsibility for the section between the countries. So there were a few places where I had to ford mud puddles or cross dry river beds. I had to push the bike up a few sections. Because of the sandy road I was even having a hard time doing that.
I was glad to get to the checkpoint on the Sierra Leone side. It seemed much more organized than in Guinea. (Their forms even had "Say no to corruption" marked on them.) I didn't get a stamp though. The didn't have the proper stuff at this checkpoint. So I would have to go to Kabala or Freetown in the next 48 hours to get a stamp. Well, Freetown was out, but I thought I could make it to Kabala before nightfall. I asked the guy at immigration how the roads were from here to kabala. He said they were good.
I really wouldn't use that term. Better, possibly. Not good. At most of the stream crossings along the way, the bridges were washed out. So more fording of streams or mud puddles. There were also more steep places where I also had to push the bike. So another evening spent racing the sun. Bad roads were a factor. A headwind didn't help. (How can I draw that to me so frequently?) Also, overly talkative people at the police and customs checkpoint. Thanks but, I have to go before that sun sets. Again I didn't make it.
Just after dark though, I did get to a police checkpoint. I started talking with one of the police officers there. It turns out he was just getting off work and could show me a place to stay in Kabala. He was traveling my moto-taxi, so we played leapfrog into town. I was pretty glad to have his help. I don't think I would have ever found the place. Just a simple guesthouse, but it really was a nice place.
After that, my guide, Konday, took me out to dinner. I was hoping to get my money changed over, but he said that would be no problem. The restaurant could change money. So I ordered some food. Turns out they couldn't change money. Whoops, so Konday paid for me. I don't like owing people money, so we tried to find another place to change money. I guess they were all closed for the night.
So I agreed to me Konday the next day. He also invited me over to his house to meet his wife. That sounded fine. While we were going he asked if I liked rice. Yeah, I like rice. He said we could have dinner together. On the way we stopped at a place, kind of like a bar, for some palm wine. The patrons at the place called it "African Drink". I think it is also called Poyo. I tried some. Not bad, but a little like vinegar. After Konday finished his poyo we headed over to his house. His wife had made rice with ground cassava leaves and meat. Basically, man-yawk. Very tasty.
After that I said goodbye to my guide's wife and Konday took me back to the guesthouse. We agreed to meet the next day. He could help me get money changed. Also to find the immigration office in town.
I took a quick (bucket) shower and went to bed.
-Dravis
Dalaba to Oure Kaba - Day 218
Date: March 24th, 2010
Distance: 133km
Country: Guinea
I left Dalaba pretty early today. I knew I had a long ride ahead of me. I wasn't in a big hurry, but I did want to get to Mamou and see if I could find a cyber cafe for lunch. The first 8 klicks out of Dalaba were pretty bad though. Dalaba is in a little valley. So I had to climb out of it to start the day. Not really the best way to kick off the morning.
After that I did come to a few good downhills. Even on the main (paved) road I still have to watch out. There are huge potholes in places. Often this is at the bottom of a little hill. Just when you have picked up the most speed. Then again, much better than the dirt roads I was on.
I did get to Mamou, and I did find a cyber. I just wanted to check my e-mail and see how arranging my package was going. First I had to set up a static IP address on my laptop which I was using. I guess they don't have DHCP setup. The guy at the place kept saying "codes" though, which I didn't understand. He showed me on one of the other computers and I set mine up that way and was off and running. I got about 20 minutes of real net time after that. Then the shut the generator down. But they wanted me to pay for 35 minutes of generator time and the 4 computers they had running. I told them I only used my laptop, and only for 20 mintues. That they had 4 computers running was their business. Again, it was hard because it was all in French. (Try to have an argument in a foreign language sometime.) Eventually though, I won the day. The owner relented and I paid them about a buck. Still expensive for 20 minutes, but worth it to me.
I also grabbed a bit of lunch while I was in town. Just a sandwich and some chocolate milk. The afternoon got off to a bad start though, when I followed the main road out of town. It turns out that road goes to the capitol. In other words, the wrong way. I only figured that out after seeing a road marker 5km out of town. So now I had to go back and find the right road. Urgh.
From there I knew I was running out of daylight with about 60 kilometers to go. I
tried to hurry as much as I could. Still, it wasn't easy. There were a lot of steep climbs. I did my best, but it was dark before I arrived in Oure Kaba. The last few kilometers weren't fun. I have been using my bike light at night when I need it. So it isn't as bright as when the batteries were fresh. So the beam it casts is that great. I had to really keep my eyes peeled to avoid the potholes. Still, all the other cars and motos were doing the same, so it was slow going all around. I wasn't worried about getting hit by a car, at least.
When I got to the place, I was hoping there would have been more of a town. You see, Dounghal, which wasn't even on the map had power and if not a hotel, at least a place for guests to stay. This place had no power. They did have a spare hut at the police station. It does feel a little weird to stay with the police. I guess I am just afraid they will ask for a money, which I am not sure if that would be a bribe or not. They were quite friendly though, and no request for money was forthcoming. They even helped me find a place where I could get water (I was out). Also a restaurant for dinner. There wasn't a place for a shower though. So I had to just spash myself down to get the dust off and go to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 133km
Country: Guinea
I left Dalaba pretty early today. I knew I had a long ride ahead of me. I wasn't in a big hurry, but I did want to get to Mamou and see if I could find a cyber cafe for lunch. The first 8 klicks out of Dalaba were pretty bad though. Dalaba is in a little valley. So I had to climb out of it to start the day. Not really the best way to kick off the morning.
After that I did come to a few good downhills. Even on the main (paved) road I still have to watch out. There are huge potholes in places. Often this is at the bottom of a little hill. Just when you have picked up the most speed. Then again, much better than the dirt roads I was on.
I did get to Mamou, and I did find a cyber. I just wanted to check my e-mail and see how arranging my package was going. First I had to set up a static IP address on my laptop which I was using. I guess they don't have DHCP setup. The guy at the place kept saying "codes" though, which I didn't understand. He showed me on one of the other computers and I set mine up that way and was off and running. I got about 20 minutes of real net time after that. Then the shut the generator down. But they wanted me to pay for 35 minutes of generator time and the 4 computers they had running. I told them I only used my laptop, and only for 20 mintues. That they had 4 computers running was their business. Again, it was hard because it was all in French. (Try to have an argument in a foreign language sometime.) Eventually though, I won the day. The owner relented and I paid them about a buck. Still expensive for 20 minutes, but worth it to me.
I also grabbed a bit of lunch while I was in town. Just a sandwich and some chocolate milk. The afternoon got off to a bad start though, when I followed the main road out of town. It turns out that road goes to the capitol. In other words, the wrong way. I only figured that out after seeing a road marker 5km out of town. So now I had to go back and find the right road. Urgh.
From there I knew I was running out of daylight with about 60 kilometers to go. I
tried to hurry as much as I could. Still, it wasn't easy. There were a lot of steep climbs. I did my best, but it was dark before I arrived in Oure Kaba. The last few kilometers weren't fun. I have been using my bike light at night when I need it. So it isn't as bright as when the batteries were fresh. So the beam it casts is that great. I had to really keep my eyes peeled to avoid the potholes. Still, all the other cars and motos were doing the same, so it was slow going all around. I wasn't worried about getting hit by a car, at least.When I got to the place, I was hoping there would have been more of a town. You see, Dounghal, which wasn't even on the map had power and if not a hotel, at least a place for guests to stay. This place had no power. They did have a spare hut at the police station. It does feel a little weird to stay with the police. I guess I am just afraid they will ask for a money, which I am not sure if that would be a bribe or not. They were quite friendly though, and no request for money was forthcoming. They even helped me find a place where I could get water (I was out). Also a restaurant for dinner. There wasn't a place for a shower though. So I had to just spash myself down to get the dust off and go to bed.
-Dravis
Labe to Dalaba - Day 217
Date: March 23rd, 2010
Distance: 94km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Circles - Incubus
Didn't sleep well last night. Mosquitoes were buzzing me all night. Plus the egg sandwich I had for dinner wasn't sitting right. Ugh. So, I was shocked when my friend El-Haj shoes up at 7:30 AM. Two and a half hours early. Amazingly enough I was able to pop out of bed and take off with him.
We headed over to the school that he works at. It was a lot of fun. The kids have only been learning English for 7 months, but were already pretty good. I did try to speak slowly, and most of what I said needed to be translated into French. It was fun to have them ask me questions about the trip I am on. I don't think I am going to get tired of telling people about it. I also spoke to them about the value of getting an education. I really see so much potential here in Guinea. The best thing the kids here can do is learn and apply that knowledge. After a couple of classes I had to get going though. So I said goodbye to El-Haj and headed off. Thanks man for setting that up. It was a lot of fun.
Back at the hotel I put all the stuff onto the bike and got on the road by 11:30. A late start, but I was excited for the paved road ahead of me. The route is still a bit hilly, but I was just able to cruise on the asphault. So amazing.
I stopped for lunch in Pita. Had some rice and man-yawk. I guess that is just mashed up cassava leaves. Still good. Plus some bissap. Then it was back on the trail. I made great time all through the afternoon. Caught a bit of headwind later. Plus I spent the last hour or so climbing. Still I made it to Dalaba well before dark.
I met a guy who had an Auberge I could stay at. Clean, and cheap too. He showed me the way to make ginger and gave me some fried bannana. Plus I had a huge dinner. After that, just time for bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 94km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Circles - Incubus
Didn't sleep well last night. Mosquitoes were buzzing me all night. Plus the egg sandwich I had for dinner wasn't sitting right. Ugh. So, I was shocked when my friend El-Haj shoes up at 7:30 AM. Two and a half hours early. Amazingly enough I was able to pop out of bed and take off with him.
We headed over to the school that he works at. It was a lot of fun. The kids have only been learning English for 7 months, but were already pretty good. I did try to speak slowly, and most of what I said needed to be translated into French. It was fun to have them ask me questions about the trip I am on. I don't think I am going to get tired of telling people about it. I also spoke to them about the value of getting an education. I really see so much potential here in Guinea. The best thing the kids here can do is learn and apply that knowledge. After a couple of classes I had to get going though. So I said goodbye to El-Haj and headed off. Thanks man for setting that up. It was a lot of fun.
Back at the hotel I put all the stuff onto the bike and got on the road by 11:30. A late start, but I was excited for the paved road ahead of me. The route is still a bit hilly, but I was just able to cruise on the asphault. So amazing.
I stopped for lunch in Pita. Had some rice and man-yawk. I guess that is just mashed up cassava leaves. Still good. Plus some bissap. Then it was back on the trail. I made great time all through the afternoon. Caught a bit of headwind later. Plus I spent the last hour or so climbing. Still I made it to Dalaba well before dark.
I met a guy who had an Auberge I could stay at. Clean, and cheap too. He showed me the way to make ginger and gave me some fried bannana. Plus I had a huge dinner. After that, just time for bed.
-Dravis
Labe - Day 216
Date: March 22nd, 2010
Distance: 10km (around the city)
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Lazybones - Soul Coughing
I slept in today, and that was amazing. I really didn't have anywhere to get to except the cyber after 10:00. I just wasn't in a rush. That feels good.
I did get into town and go to the cyber. Got my internet time in. After that I was looking for a couple of things. I wanted a little strip of metal for my water bottle holder. The rough roads showed that the innertube rubber holding up one end just isn't cutting it. It took an hour or so of searching and asking around, but I found what I needed.
My sunglasses (that I bought in Spain) also broke. So I was looking for a new pair of those. What I found was a pair of "Obama" brand sunglasses. They love that guy over here. I also got some (local) peanut butter while I was out.
I also met an american guy on the streets. I guess I am pretty foreign looking. Only white guy in the market. He came up and asked me if I was American and spoke english. It turns out the guy, El Haj, is from Brooklyn and here teaching english. He showed me a good place to get lunch as well. Since I didn't have any real plans, he invited me to talk to his class tomorrow. So we will see how that goes.
With my stuff in town finished, I headed back to the hotel. I then spent the afternoon reworking my water bottle holder. The strip of metal I bought was tougher than I thought though. I was hoping to just pound a hole in it with a nail. Nope. Across the street I could hear the sounds of people working metal. So I headed over there to see what they could do.
It turns out the shop is making hand pumps for water. That is good for me as I always like seeing those along the road. Really I just wanted them to make some holes, but it turned into a whole gathering. I had 4 or 5 guys standing around giving suggestions and trying to do stuff. Eventually I got them to step back a bit and let me handle it. Getting the holes right took a couple of tries, but we got it in the end.
Then it was back to the hotel to put on the finishing touches. I bolted it to the front rack. Then wrapped everything in inner tube rubber. It looks great, and is quite sturdy now. I also cut up the PVC pipe a bit more. I don't need all the weight so I took some panels out of the side. I also made some holes in the top and zip tied in some cheap fabric. I am hoping I can soak the fabric and have the evaporation keep the water bottle cool. Lets see if that works. I am actually quite happy with how everything turned out. I miss working with my hands. Lets see how water bottle holder 3.0 works out.
From there it was out to find a bit of dinner. Then off to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 10km (around the city)
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Lazybones - Soul Coughing
I slept in today, and that was amazing. I really didn't have anywhere to get to except the cyber after 10:00. I just wasn't in a rush. That feels good.
I did get into town and go to the cyber. Got my internet time in. After that I was looking for a couple of things. I wanted a little strip of metal for my water bottle holder. The rough roads showed that the innertube rubber holding up one end just isn't cutting it. It took an hour or so of searching and asking around, but I found what I needed.
My sunglasses (that I bought in Spain) also broke. So I was looking for a new pair of those. What I found was a pair of "Obama" brand sunglasses. They love that guy over here. I also got some (local) peanut butter while I was out.
I also met an american guy on the streets. I guess I am pretty foreign looking. Only white guy in the market. He came up and asked me if I was American and spoke english. It turns out the guy, El Haj, is from Brooklyn and here teaching english. He showed me a good place to get lunch as well. Since I didn't have any real plans, he invited me to talk to his class tomorrow. So we will see how that goes.
With my stuff in town finished, I headed back to the hotel. I then spent the afternoon reworking my water bottle holder. The strip of metal I bought was tougher than I thought though. I was hoping to just pound a hole in it with a nail. Nope. Across the street I could hear the sounds of people working metal. So I headed over there to see what they could do.
It turns out the shop is making hand pumps for water. That is good for me as I always like seeing those along the road. Really I just wanted them to make some holes, but it turned into a whole gathering. I had 4 or 5 guys standing around giving suggestions and trying to do stuff. Eventually I got them to step back a bit and let me handle it. Getting the holes right took a couple of tries, but we got it in the end.
Then it was back to the hotel to put on the finishing touches. I bolted it to the front rack. Then wrapped everything in inner tube rubber. It looks great, and is quite sturdy now. I also cut up the PVC pipe a bit more. I don't need all the weight so I took some panels out of the side. I also made some holes in the top and zip tied in some cheap fabric. I am hoping I can soak the fabric and have the evaporation keep the water bottle cool. Lets see if that works. I am actually quite happy with how everything turned out. I miss working with my hands. Lets see how water bottle holder 3.0 works out.
From there it was out to find a bit of dinner. Then off to bed.
-Dravis
Monday, March 22, 2010
Dounghal to Labe - Day 215
Date: March 21st, 2010
Distance: 102km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Headlong - Queen
I woke up early, as I heard the other men staying in the villa stirring. I didn't see them though. They must have been up earlier than me. It was a good morning though. I had a mango and some peanut butter bread on the back porch. I could see down into the little mist covered valley below. I kind of like some of the crazy places I end up at.
It was only supposed to be 60 kilometers to the main road. Plus it should have been mostly downhill. I was so ready for that. Downhill is apparently a loose term, though. I do think I lost altitude, but it was up and down a lot. The roads were still terrible. I actually preferred a slight uphill to a steep downhill. All the dirt has been worn away in the steep sections. That leaves just the bare rock that makes up the mountain. Not exactly easy going. I make better time in going a bit uphill than a lot down hill.
I also don't crash. About 4 klicks out of Dounghal I lost it. Going (slowly) down a steep and rocky section my front tire caught on a rock, twisted. I did my best superman impression and slammed into the ground. I would like to take a minute to thank my protective gear. Yeah, I wear a helmet, but in this case that didn't help. It was the gloves that saved me. I landed on my hands hard enough to bruise the heels of my palms. I didn't grind sand and gravel into them though, for which I am glad, because of the gloves. I did wear a bit of skin off my right elbow and knee though. Still nothing major broken on either me or the bike, so I kept going. Just not a great way to begin the morning.
The rest of the way to the main road was a pain. I really think these are the worst roads I have been on so far. It is a combination of the inclines, rocky and sandy conditions, plus the length. It is 250km of bad roads. It felt great to finally be back on the paved road. From that point on I just cruised into Labe. It is so good to go fast again.
In town I found a cheap place to stay. The cyber cafe was closed though. So maybe I will stay here and rest a day. I can go there tomorrow. Plus that will give all my scrapes an bruises a chance to heal.
-Dravis
Distance: 102km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Headlong - Queen
I woke up early, as I heard the other men staying in the villa stirring. I didn't see them though. They must have been up earlier than me. It was a good morning though. I had a mango and some peanut butter bread on the back porch. I could see down into the little mist covered valley below. I kind of like some of the crazy places I end up at.
It was only supposed to be 60 kilometers to the main road. Plus it should have been mostly downhill. I was so ready for that. Downhill is apparently a loose term, though. I do think I lost altitude, but it was up and down a lot. The roads were still terrible. I actually preferred a slight uphill to a steep downhill. All the dirt has been worn away in the steep sections. That leaves just the bare rock that makes up the mountain. Not exactly easy going. I make better time in going a bit uphill than a lot down hill.
I also don't crash. About 4 klicks out of Dounghal I lost it. Going (slowly) down a steep and rocky section my front tire caught on a rock, twisted. I did my best superman impression and slammed into the ground. I would like to take a minute to thank my protective gear. Yeah, I wear a helmet, but in this case that didn't help. It was the gloves that saved me. I landed on my hands hard enough to bruise the heels of my palms. I didn't grind sand and gravel into them though, for which I am glad, because of the gloves. I did wear a bit of skin off my right elbow and knee though. Still nothing major broken on either me or the bike, so I kept going. Just not a great way to begin the morning.
The rest of the way to the main road was a pain. I really think these are the worst roads I have been on so far. It is a combination of the inclines, rocky and sandy conditions, plus the length. It is 250km of bad roads. It felt great to finally be back on the paved road. From that point on I just cruised into Labe. It is so good to go fast again.
In town I found a cheap place to stay. The cyber cafe was closed though. So maybe I will stay here and rest a day. I can go there tomorrow. Plus that will give all my scrapes an bruises a chance to heal.
-Dravis
Telemeli to Doughol - Day 214
Date: March 20th, 2010
Distance: 73km
Country: Guinea
For breakfast I had a bean and spaghetti sandwich from the shop down the street. The shop is just and old metal shipping container with holes cut in it for doors and windows. Things around here tend to go through a couple of lives. Then again I can't imagine what truck brought the damn thing up here in the first place.
The road from Telemeli was surprisingly downhill for the first hour. I still wasn't going very fast, though. Just too rough. I feel like the bike is going to shake apart. It would be different if it was just me on a well tuned mountain bike. With all the extra weight I carry, I just can't bomb down the hill and hope for the best.
Things started to even out before noon. A bit of uphill followed by a bit of down. Like I said, the roads tend to be a little better in the flat areas. There was also a river to cross after 33 kilometers. They had an old looking cable ferry for cars and trucks. Since there weren't any four wheeled vehicles crossing, I went over in a dugout canoe.
Things started to get steeper from there. Lots of uphill. I was kind of waiting for that. This is the mountains after all. It just became a slog after that. I must admit there is some pretty amazing scenery up here. At the same time it is hard to enjoy it when you are crawling along uphill over awful roads. A mist had also come in. So it wasn't good for pictures.
I did have one bright spot of the day. I was zooming through one village when I noticed a woman on the side of the road fry up some dough. I hadn't seen anyone frying these things before. I couldn't resist a fresh one. So I stopped. Hot out of the oil, it was so good.
All afternoon I was waiting for the top. I kept thinking it was just one more kilometer. Just around the next bend. The road kept winding around. I was watching this one tower of rock getting closer. I thought I would go by on the left. Then the right. I ended up riding along right under the cliff face. Surely, that was the top.
Nope, after that it was still more of a climb. As it was getting dark I just wanted to find a village I could stay with. Then I was thinking I could set up my tent out in the bush if it came to it. How many lions are up here really?
I started to see buildings. Not round huts with thatched roofs. No these were real cement buildings with metal roofs. Some of them even had electricity. I had stumbled upon a real town. So I just kept climbing. Eventually just pushing my bike over the rocks in the dark. When I got to the crossroads at the center of town, I stopped and had a ice cold coke. Ice. Cold. Coke. After so many miles in the wilderness, it was almost sureal to find a town like this way up in the mountains.
After asking around for a place to stay, I was told to go to the "supervie". I hadn't a clue what that was, but found it eventually. It turns out that is a man. Or, I met the man whose job title is supervie. I sat with him for a few minutes and explained the journey I was on. That works every time. It seems to explain why I am there, and most people seem more than happy to help out. For which I am very grateful.
The supervie and a friend of his took me to a place they called the villa. I tried to explain that I could just set up my tent somewhere outside, but they seemed insistent. The villa was something like a hotel, but not. It had four rooms with beds in them. I don't know why people got to stay there, or if they payed for them. The rooms were all occupied when I got there though. There was the "salon". Just a room off the main living room area. Not much privacy, but better than sleeping outside.
Now that I had a place it was time to find dinner. The friend of the supervie said he would take me to the village for something to eat. He just wanted to know what I was looking for. I had heard they do a potato salad in Guinea, and I really wanted to try it. The guy knew a place, so that is where we went. I was not disappointed either.
The place was just a little shop with a patio. I gave the lady running the place my order. She then prepared everything right in front of me (the potatoes had already been boiled). A few potatoes, an egg, some onion, a couple of tomatoes. Top it all off and mix it together. It was great. I had two plates. Actually it was hard to get across that I wanted the second plate. They kept thinking I wanted more water. No, more food please. I had a hard day. I did leave the place very full.
Back at the villa I unrolled my sleeping pad and went right to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 73km
Country: Guinea
For breakfast I had a bean and spaghetti sandwich from the shop down the street. The shop is just and old metal shipping container with holes cut in it for doors and windows. Things around here tend to go through a couple of lives. Then again I can't imagine what truck brought the damn thing up here in the first place.
The road from Telemeli was surprisingly downhill for the first hour. I still wasn't going very fast, though. Just too rough. I feel like the bike is going to shake apart. It would be different if it was just me on a well tuned mountain bike. With all the extra weight I carry, I just can't bomb down the hill and hope for the best.
Things started to even out before noon. A bit of uphill followed by a bit of down. Like I said, the roads tend to be a little better in the flat areas. There was also a river to cross after 33 kilometers. They had an old looking cable ferry for cars and trucks. Since there weren't any four wheeled vehicles crossing, I went over in a dugout canoe.
Things started to get steeper from there. Lots of uphill. I was kind of waiting for that. This is the mountains after all. It just became a slog after that. I must admit there is some pretty amazing scenery up here. At the same time it is hard to enjoy it when you are crawling along uphill over awful roads. A mist had also come in. So it wasn't good for pictures.
I did have one bright spot of the day. I was zooming through one village when I noticed a woman on the side of the road fry up some dough. I hadn't seen anyone frying these things before. I couldn't resist a fresh one. So I stopped. Hot out of the oil, it was so good.
All afternoon I was waiting for the top. I kept thinking it was just one more kilometer. Just around the next bend. The road kept winding around. I was watching this one tower of rock getting closer. I thought I would go by on the left. Then the right. I ended up riding along right under the cliff face. Surely, that was the top.
Nope, after that it was still more of a climb. As it was getting dark I just wanted to find a village I could stay with. Then I was thinking I could set up my tent out in the bush if it came to it. How many lions are up here really?
I started to see buildings. Not round huts with thatched roofs. No these were real cement buildings with metal roofs. Some of them even had electricity. I had stumbled upon a real town. So I just kept climbing. Eventually just pushing my bike over the rocks in the dark. When I got to the crossroads at the center of town, I stopped and had a ice cold coke. Ice. Cold. Coke. After so many miles in the wilderness, it was almost sureal to find a town like this way up in the mountains.
After asking around for a place to stay, I was told to go to the "supervie". I hadn't a clue what that was, but found it eventually. It turns out that is a man. Or, I met the man whose job title is supervie. I sat with him for a few minutes and explained the journey I was on. That works every time. It seems to explain why I am there, and most people seem more than happy to help out. For which I am very grateful.
The supervie and a friend of his took me to a place they called the villa. I tried to explain that I could just set up my tent somewhere outside, but they seemed insistent. The villa was something like a hotel, but not. It had four rooms with beds in them. I don't know why people got to stay there, or if they payed for them. The rooms were all occupied when I got there though. There was the "salon". Just a room off the main living room area. Not much privacy, but better than sleeping outside.
Now that I had a place it was time to find dinner. The friend of the supervie said he would take me to the village for something to eat. He just wanted to know what I was looking for. I had heard they do a potato salad in Guinea, and I really wanted to try it. The guy knew a place, so that is where we went. I was not disappointed either.
The place was just a little shop with a patio. I gave the lady running the place my order. She then prepared everything right in front of me (the potatoes had already been boiled). A few potatoes, an egg, some onion, a couple of tomatoes. Top it all off and mix it together. It was great. I had two plates. Actually it was hard to get across that I wanted the second plate. They kept thinking I wanted more water. No, more food please. I had a hard day. I did leave the place very full.
Back at the villa I unrolled my sleeping pad and went right to bed.
-Dravis
Tarihowe to Telemeli - Day 213
Date: March 19th, 2010
Distance: 45km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: End Over End - Foo Fighters
I was able to sleep in a little bit this morning. Someone in the village was blasting music until early in the morning, so I didn't sleep well. The one good thing about being up in the mountains, it does cool off in the evening. I even used my sleeping bag later on. Anyway, I just wasn't in a big hurry today. I knew that Telemeli wasn't far away.
Just on the far edge of the village was another pump. So I filled up with cool water and ate the last of my mangoes. The morning didn't get any faster from there on out, but in a good way. The scenery the last two days was nice, but nothing to write home about. Today I got some really amazing vistas. Beautiful valleys filled with lush green tropical forests. Just stunning. I kept stopping to take pictures. I even shot a bit of video. Don't know if or when that will get posted.
One of the great things about cycling is that you are much more in touch with the world around you. You can also stop whenever you want. In one section I could hear a waterfall, but I couldn't see it well. Since I was taking a slow day I wandered off into the bush to see if I could find it. I was just looking for a place to get a better view, but I was able to pick my way down to river. The scene was amazing. The falls weren't huge, but they were still pretty. Thinking back on it, I should have stripped down and taken a swim.
Later in the afternoon, the terrain again started getting steeper. I was just surrounded by hills and cliffs. I really didn't know what to expect when I chose this route, but this is basically what I was hoping for. I really can't do enough to explain how amazing this area is. If only Guinea had some infrustructure, this might actually be a great area for tourism. As it is, the main mode of transport in the area is motorcycle. I am amazed that almost any four wheeled vehicle can make the trip.
I also scared off a group of women and children at one point. I stopped to take a rest under a shady tree. There was a compound right there. I tried to wave at the girl working in the compound, but I don't think she saw me. After a couple of minutes she looked up and ran screaming into the forest. A woman came out of the hut, grabbed all the kids and ran off as well. I guess white guys are scary. I decided it was time to leave. Still, me: 1, women and children: 0.
Around 5:00 PM I made it to Telemeli. I had a (cool) coke and asked if there was a hotel. It turns out there was. Judging by the power lines, there might even be some power. Woo-hoo. I checked in and had a shower. A good afternoon. I was just about to go out and find some dinner when I struck up a conversation with one of the guys who works at the hotel. He invited me to have dinner with him. I wasn't going to, but I tried some of what he was having and it was amazing. Just rice and a sauce called "man-yawk". I haven't a clue what that is, but it was fantastic. So I sat and talked with him about music while we ate.
After that I ate a mango and went to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 45km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: End Over End - Foo Fighters
I was able to sleep in a little bit this morning. Someone in the village was blasting music until early in the morning, so I didn't sleep well. The one good thing about being up in the mountains, it does cool off in the evening. I even used my sleeping bag later on. Anyway, I just wasn't in a big hurry today. I knew that Telemeli wasn't far away.
Just on the far edge of the village was another pump. So I filled up with cool water and ate the last of my mangoes. The morning didn't get any faster from there on out, but in a good way. The scenery the last two days was nice, but nothing to write home about. Today I got some really amazing vistas. Beautiful valleys filled with lush green tropical forests. Just stunning. I kept stopping to take pictures. I even shot a bit of video. Don't know if or when that will get posted.
One of the great things about cycling is that you are much more in touch with the world around you. You can also stop whenever you want. In one section I could hear a waterfall, but I couldn't see it well. Since I was taking a slow day I wandered off into the bush to see if I could find it. I was just looking for a place to get a better view, but I was able to pick my way down to river. The scene was amazing. The falls weren't huge, but they were still pretty. Thinking back on it, I should have stripped down and taken a swim.
Later in the afternoon, the terrain again started getting steeper. I was just surrounded by hills and cliffs. I really didn't know what to expect when I chose this route, but this is basically what I was hoping for. I really can't do enough to explain how amazing this area is. If only Guinea had some infrustructure, this might actually be a great area for tourism. As it is, the main mode of transport in the area is motorcycle. I am amazed that almost any four wheeled vehicle can make the trip.
I also scared off a group of women and children at one point. I stopped to take a rest under a shady tree. There was a compound right there. I tried to wave at the girl working in the compound, but I don't think she saw me. After a couple of minutes she looked up and ran screaming into the forest. A woman came out of the hut, grabbed all the kids and ran off as well. I guess white guys are scary. I decided it was time to leave. Still, me: 1, women and children: 0.
Around 5:00 PM I made it to Telemeli. I had a (cool) coke and asked if there was a hotel. It turns out there was. Judging by the power lines, there might even be some power. Woo-hoo. I checked in and had a shower. A good afternoon. I was just about to go out and find some dinner when I struck up a conversation with one of the guys who works at the hotel. He invited me to have dinner with him. I wasn't going to, but I tried some of what he was having and it was amazing. Just rice and a sauce called "man-yawk". I haven't a clue what that is, but it was fantastic. So I sat and talked with him about music while we ate.
After that I ate a mango and went to bed.
-Dravis
Bambu Seleti to Tarihowe - Day 212
Date: March 18th, 2010
Distance: 81km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Coming Back to Life - Pink Floyd
I woke up early. As in, when the roosters in the compound started crowing. While I was getting ready, the man of the house came by the tent to inquire about me with a "Kon-Kon". I think that is like "knock-knock". I was on the road by 8:30, still in search of water. That took another 15km. The little village also had some fried bread (kinda like doughnuts) and mangoes. That mangoes was great. The fried bread was fried in the same oil as the fish they were selling. Not so great.
Still, I was full up on water and ready to go. The going was rough though. The roads aren't well maintained. Also rocky and rutted. The terrain is pretty steep in places as well. That is also where the worst sections of road are. During the rainy season the steeper sections must wash out pretty badly. Plus any cars or trucks going by won't help. So I could spend an hour collecting potential energy on the way up, only to burn it off as break heat on the way down. Quite frustrating.
The good thing was there were pump wells every 10-20 kilometers. So I was well stocked with cool water. I also stopped at Konsotami for a bit in the afternoon. There was a place I could sit in the shade and eat a mango. I wanted to stay longer, but I had a long way to go.
I didn't make it either. Again, I was hoping to get to Telemeli. Didn't happen. Just after sunset I arrived in Tarihowe. I was told that I could find lodging at the police station in the previous town. I was dubious, but it was worth a shot. I did talk to the Chief of Police and he was more than happy to let me stay there. They even had a place I could take a quick bucket shower. Though it didn't smell the greatest. Still, I was able to find a bit of food in the village and headed off to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 81km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Coming Back to Life - Pink Floyd
I woke up early. As in, when the roosters in the compound started crowing. While I was getting ready, the man of the house came by the tent to inquire about me with a "Kon-Kon". I think that is like "knock-knock". I was on the road by 8:30, still in search of water. That took another 15km. The little village also had some fried bread (kinda like doughnuts) and mangoes. That mangoes was great. The fried bread was fried in the same oil as the fish they were selling. Not so great.
Still, I was full up on water and ready to go. The going was rough though. The roads aren't well maintained. Also rocky and rutted. The terrain is pretty steep in places as well. That is also where the worst sections of road are. During the rainy season the steeper sections must wash out pretty badly. Plus any cars or trucks going by won't help. So I could spend an hour collecting potential energy on the way up, only to burn it off as break heat on the way down. Quite frustrating.
The good thing was there were pump wells every 10-20 kilometers. So I was well stocked with cool water. I also stopped at Konsotami for a bit in the afternoon. There was a place I could sit in the shade and eat a mango. I wanted to stay longer, but I had a long way to go.
I didn't make it either. Again, I was hoping to get to Telemeli. Didn't happen. Just after sunset I arrived in Tarihowe. I was told that I could find lodging at the police station in the previous town. I was dubious, but it was worth a shot. I did talk to the Chief of Police and he was more than happy to let me stay there. They even had a place I could take a quick bucket shower. Though it didn't smell the greatest. Still, I was able to find a bit of food in the village and headed off to bed.
-Dravis
Boke to Bambu Seleti - Day 211
Date: March 17th, 2010
Distance: 92km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Can't Stop - Red Hot Chili Peppers
Back on the road today. Leaving Boke I had wonderful asphalt. It was a little hilly, but other than that no problems. Then again I am getting into the mountains. So I expected a little bit more hills. I hope my legs are ready for it.
After the first 50km though I had to turn off the main road. That means more dirt roads. Really, it is like being on logging roads. Between that, the hills and the heat, it was just killing me. Oh, and lets not forget the headwind. I just can't seem to shake it on this trip.
I think I also missed one turn. Or maybe I was directed to a "shortcut". Either way, I was off the main road stomping over trails of rock and loose gravel. Just grueling. I should have sat out the afternoon heat, but I was trying to make it to Konsotami. I knew that was going to be a big push.
That is pretty much the reason I ran out of water in the afternoon. I carry 4.5 liters, you think that would be enough. Nope. Not in this heat. I stopped by every village to see if they had a pump I could drink from. Nada. Only open wells along the road.
Just before sunset I got back onto the main road. The conditions weren't much better, but some. I stopped at a little village and asked if they had a pump. One guy said there was one. Perfect. Except when I arrived he pulled out a bike pump. Thanks. I explained that I wanted a water pump, which they didn't have in the village. I asked if they had filtered water, which he said yes to. I was dubious, but he brought out a cup of cool clean (looking) water. I was too tired and thirsty to argue. Parasites be damned.
After that I asked if I could spend the night in their compound. The man showed me a cramped and dirt hut to sleep in. Uh, thanks. It took a bit of doing, but I finally explained that I had a tent and just needed a bit of space to set it up. That was acceptable. They even fed me a bit of simple dinner. I just crashed after that. A long and very tiring day.
-Dravis
Distance: 92km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Can't Stop - Red Hot Chili Peppers
Back on the road today. Leaving Boke I had wonderful asphalt. It was a little hilly, but other than that no problems. Then again I am getting into the mountains. So I expected a little bit more hills. I hope my legs are ready for it.
After the first 50km though I had to turn off the main road. That means more dirt roads. Really, it is like being on logging roads. Between that, the hills and the heat, it was just killing me. Oh, and lets not forget the headwind. I just can't seem to shake it on this trip.
I think I also missed one turn. Or maybe I was directed to a "shortcut". Either way, I was off the main road stomping over trails of rock and loose gravel. Just grueling. I should have sat out the afternoon heat, but I was trying to make it to Konsotami. I knew that was going to be a big push.
That is pretty much the reason I ran out of water in the afternoon. I carry 4.5 liters, you think that would be enough. Nope. Not in this heat. I stopped by every village to see if they had a pump I could drink from. Nada. Only open wells along the road.
Just before sunset I got back onto the main road. The conditions weren't much better, but some. I stopped at a little village and asked if they had a pump. One guy said there was one. Perfect. Except when I arrived he pulled out a bike pump. Thanks. I explained that I wanted a water pump, which they didn't have in the village. I asked if they had filtered water, which he said yes to. I was dubious, but he brought out a cup of cool clean (looking) water. I was too tired and thirsty to argue. Parasites be damned.
After that I asked if I could spend the night in their compound. The man showed me a cramped and dirt hut to sleep in. Uh, thanks. It took a bit of doing, but I finally explained that I had a tent and just needed a bit of space to set it up. That was acceptable. They even fed me a bit of simple dinner. I just crashed after that. A long and very tiring day.
-Dravis
Boke - Day 210
Date: March 16th, 2010
Distance: None
Country: Guinea
Found internet today. That is pretty much what I did all day. I woke up and was feeling really bummed about not finding any the day before. I was just going to take off, but I just didn't feel like it. Sometimes the logistical problems end up weighing me down.
That is something I didn't really consider before I came here. My life seems to be full of arranging things. Finding a place to stay. Getting food. Filling up with clean water. I guess it gets to me sometimes. I don't begrudge anyone who wants to go on a cycle tour where everything is arranged. I can't say this is really vacation. It is a different sort of experience. I do get to do some amazing things though.
This morning I finally got a line on where to find internet. There was apparently a university about 4km away that had it. I was on the fence about heading off to the next town or staying another day. I decided to stay another day, and boy am I glad.
The university did have internet. It was over some crazy satalite hookup. The speed was even pretty good. I don't think it would do video or anything, but it was pretty good for checking e-mail. I order some parts for my bike and worked on arranging a place for them to be shipped to. I really have to thank my parents for being so supportive on this. I also talked to my mom on skype. She was worried like always, but I was able to reassure her that everything is okay. Africa really isn't as dangerous as people make it seem. Then again I am also hoping to avoid the troubled parts...
So that was my day. Spent 6 hours on the internet. Well worth it though. I feel great and am ready to head off down the road tomorrow.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Guinea
Found internet today. That is pretty much what I did all day. I woke up and was feeling really bummed about not finding any the day before. I was just going to take off, but I just didn't feel like it. Sometimes the logistical problems end up weighing me down.
That is something I didn't really consider before I came here. My life seems to be full of arranging things. Finding a place to stay. Getting food. Filling up with clean water. I guess it gets to me sometimes. I don't begrudge anyone who wants to go on a cycle tour where everything is arranged. I can't say this is really vacation. It is a different sort of experience. I do get to do some amazing things though.
This morning I finally got a line on where to find internet. There was apparently a university about 4km away that had it. I was on the fence about heading off to the next town or staying another day. I decided to stay another day, and boy am I glad.
The university did have internet. It was over some crazy satalite hookup. The speed was even pretty good. I don't think it would do video or anything, but it was pretty good for checking e-mail. I order some parts for my bike and worked on arranging a place for them to be shipped to. I really have to thank my parents for being so supportive on this. I also talked to my mom on skype. She was worried like always, but I was able to reassure her that everything is okay. Africa really isn't as dangerous as people make it seem. Then again I am also hoping to avoid the troubled parts...
So that was my day. Spent 6 hours on the internet. Well worth it though. I feel great and am ready to head off down the road tomorrow.
-Dravis
Kanforte to Boke - Day 209
Date: March 15th, 2010
Distance: 59km
Country: Guinea
I woke up and said goodbye to my hosts. They didn't ask for money or anything. (Probably good since I didn't have any Guinea Francs anyway.) It was really great though to be treated thoroughly as a guest. Not a tourist. Someone the town was happy to have come and visit. For the people who think of Africa as a scary place, try a visit to Kanforte.
The rode out was more single track. In a couple of places there were more rickety wooden bridges. I wasn't worried about falling in, the bridges weren't tall. It would have just been a pain to haul my stuff out of the mud.
The one thing I really was worried about was water. I had a few cookies to eat for breakfast. Just no water. I was thinking of stopping by a stream and getting water there. I have tablets that will purify it, but they take 4 hours. That is better for an overnight operation. After 18km through the bush I came to a town that had a pump well. Here in Africa I drink water from a tap (inside or outside), or water from a closed well with a pump. So far no problems. I don't drink water from open wells though. I also try to avoid it from buckets, because I don't have a clue where it comes from. So finding a pump well was great. The water was perfect to. Really tasty and cool. I filled up everything I could.
After the town, the trail became a sort of actual road. I think you would still need a serious 4x4 to get through. But it was decent enough double track. I also picked up a local guide. Just a guy on a bicycle going to Boke. After a few kilometers the double track became a real road. Imagine a logging road. Dirt and gravel but pretty well laid out. The going was pretty good at this point.
I did have to stop at an army checkpoint where the road connected with the main road in the area. No one was there when I rode by though. So I just went to follow my guide who had stopped to talk with some guys. One of the army guys came out of a hut across from the army checkpoint. He called to me and signaled to come over. So I went over to talk to him. Soon the checkpoint was filled with about 5 guys. A white guy going by on a bike and suddenly everyone looks busy.
The guy at the checkpoint wanted to see my passport and my vaccination certificate. All my information went down in his ledger. He also had a couple of questions about where I was going. Not a big deal. No request for a bribe either. (Still glad I had all my paperwork in order, though. I have a feeling if something were wrong the guy would have looked the other way for a fee. Also I did see him accepting money from other guys. Didn't ask why. Could have just been money for lunch, I suppose...)
After that it was off on the road to Boke. On my journey through the bush I had skirted Dabiss. So Boke was only about 30km away. The road was still nice gravel. Sure it wasn't paved, but it wasn't bumpy, washboarded or rutted. There were half a dozen places where a concrete gutter was placed in the road. Kind of like a reverse speed bump. I assumed this was to let water flow by in the rainy season. Probably one of the reasons why the road is marked as impassible in the rain. The other reason may be the few streams we passed. For each one the road dropped steeply into a little valley, crossed over a small bridge or culvert, then rose just as steeply up the other side. In the heat, getting a fully loaded bike up one of those wasn't fun.
The terrain around was beautiful though. I don't know if my camera can quite capture the amazing emerald green of the forests. It is quite stunning. It is just an amazing tropical landscape all around. Espeicially with the green juxtiposed with the red dirt roads. I liked it.
Soon enough I was in Boke. I had three tasks. First get my money changed. Second find a place to stay. Third, find internet. The first one was a little harder than I though. I went to a MoneyGram place, but they were closed or something. The guy next door was kind enough to invite me for lunch though. I love Guineans. I had some rice with a peanut sauce. Really tasty. He also gave me a glass of cold pineapple juice. Oh, so good. He even got me a guide over to a place where I could change money.
This turned out to be a cellphone store. Don't ask me why. But I got my money changed from CFAs to Guinea Francs. The largest bill here seems to be the 10,000 Franc note. This sounds like a lot, but it is about $2. Imagine if you had to pay for everything with $2 bills? I ended up with a stack of bills thicker than a bible. Where to put it all? Still, that was mission 1 accomplished.
I then found the one hotel in town. It wasn't bad. They even said the power would come on at 7:30 PM and stay on until morning. There was also a bucket in the bathroom with water, but the taps were actually working. A real shower, what a treat. Mission 2, done.
Finding internet was the thing that skunked me. I couldn't believe that in a town this size that there wasn't any internet. (Hey, they have power and three cell towers.) Nope not in town. That bummed me out. I am trying to arrange for a package to be shipped over with some bike parts. I need to get it set up to arrive in a place I have never been on or before I get there. A good logistical feat in Africa. It is made impossible without internet.
Still, I was having a good time. I got to watch the sunset over the little river valley that Boke overlooks. Like I said, the scenery around here is spectacular.
-Dravis
Distance: 59km
Country: Guinea
I woke up and said goodbye to my hosts. They didn't ask for money or anything. (Probably good since I didn't have any Guinea Francs anyway.) It was really great though to be treated thoroughly as a guest. Not a tourist. Someone the town was happy to have come and visit. For the people who think of Africa as a scary place, try a visit to Kanforte.
The rode out was more single track. In a couple of places there were more rickety wooden bridges. I wasn't worried about falling in, the bridges weren't tall. It would have just been a pain to haul my stuff out of the mud.
The one thing I really was worried about was water. I had a few cookies to eat for breakfast. Just no water. I was thinking of stopping by a stream and getting water there. I have tablets that will purify it, but they take 4 hours. That is better for an overnight operation. After 18km through the bush I came to a town that had a pump well. Here in Africa I drink water from a tap (inside or outside), or water from a closed well with a pump. So far no problems. I don't drink water from open wells though. I also try to avoid it from buckets, because I don't have a clue where it comes from. So finding a pump well was great. The water was perfect to. Really tasty and cool. I filled up everything I could.
After the town, the trail became a sort of actual road. I think you would still need a serious 4x4 to get through. But it was decent enough double track. I also picked up a local guide. Just a guy on a bicycle going to Boke. After a few kilometers the double track became a real road. Imagine a logging road. Dirt and gravel but pretty well laid out. The going was pretty good at this point.
I did have to stop at an army checkpoint where the road connected with the main road in the area. No one was there when I rode by though. So I just went to follow my guide who had stopped to talk with some guys. One of the army guys came out of a hut across from the army checkpoint. He called to me and signaled to come over. So I went over to talk to him. Soon the checkpoint was filled with about 5 guys. A white guy going by on a bike and suddenly everyone looks busy.
The guy at the checkpoint wanted to see my passport and my vaccination certificate. All my information went down in his ledger. He also had a couple of questions about where I was going. Not a big deal. No request for a bribe either. (Still glad I had all my paperwork in order, though. I have a feeling if something were wrong the guy would have looked the other way for a fee. Also I did see him accepting money from other guys. Didn't ask why. Could have just been money for lunch, I suppose...)
After that it was off on the road to Boke. On my journey through the bush I had skirted Dabiss. So Boke was only about 30km away. The road was still nice gravel. Sure it wasn't paved, but it wasn't bumpy, washboarded or rutted. There were half a dozen places where a concrete gutter was placed in the road. Kind of like a reverse speed bump. I assumed this was to let water flow by in the rainy season. Probably one of the reasons why the road is marked as impassible in the rain. The other reason may be the few streams we passed. For each one the road dropped steeply into a little valley, crossed over a small bridge or culvert, then rose just as steeply up the other side. In the heat, getting a fully loaded bike up one of those wasn't fun.
The terrain around was beautiful though. I don't know if my camera can quite capture the amazing emerald green of the forests. It is quite stunning. It is just an amazing tropical landscape all around. Espeicially with the green juxtiposed with the red dirt roads. I liked it.
Soon enough I was in Boke. I had three tasks. First get my money changed. Second find a place to stay. Third, find internet. The first one was a little harder than I though. I went to a MoneyGram place, but they were closed or something. The guy next door was kind enough to invite me for lunch though. I love Guineans. I had some rice with a peanut sauce. Really tasty. He also gave me a glass of cold pineapple juice. Oh, so good. He even got me a guide over to a place where I could change money.
This turned out to be a cellphone store. Don't ask me why. But I got my money changed from CFAs to Guinea Francs. The largest bill here seems to be the 10,000 Franc note. This sounds like a lot, but it is about $2. Imagine if you had to pay for everything with $2 bills? I ended up with a stack of bills thicker than a bible. Where to put it all? Still, that was mission 1 accomplished.
I then found the one hotel in town. It wasn't bad. They even said the power would come on at 7:30 PM and stay on until morning. There was also a bucket in the bathroom with water, but the taps were actually working. A real shower, what a treat. Mission 2, done.
Finding internet was the thing that skunked me. I couldn't believe that in a town this size that there wasn't any internet. (Hey, they have power and three cell towers.) Nope not in town. That bummed me out. I am trying to arrange for a package to be shipped over with some bike parts. I need to get it set up to arrive in a place I have never been on or before I get there. A good logistical feat in Africa. It is made impossible without internet.
Still, I was having a good time. I got to watch the sunset over the little river valley that Boke overlooks. Like I said, the scenery around here is spectacular.
-Dravis
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Quebo to Kanforte - Day 208
Date: March 14th, 2010
Distance: 97km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Map of Your Head - Muse
What a miserable failure of a day. I just couldn't seem to do anything right. It doesn't look like there are many good roads out of Guinea-Bissau to Guinea. I was hoping to take a little dirt road. I made the first turn okay, but not the second one. If I had checked my map, I might have noticed. Nope. Then again it must not have been that well marked. It might not even be more than a single track through the bush. So instead I went 30km along a road parallel to the border.
Eventually I met a guy who said he could take me across the border. He did this all too effectively. I ended up in Guinea without passing any checkpoints. Crap. I had just smuggled myself into a new country. My over eager guide dropped me off in Sansale and I had to go back 7km to Guinea-Bissau. On the way I got hassled at an army checkpoint on the Guinea side for a bribe. First time anyone had overtly asked for one. After a few minutes of refusing he let me go.
Finally I found my way back to Guinea-Bissau. The border was just a rope with old socks tied to it. There was a sort of army checkpoint there. It consisted of three guys hanging out in the shade. One of them had camo on. That was it. I had to explain why I was coming into the country, but wanted an exit stamp. I wasn't even sure that they could give me a stamp. But one of the guys pulled out a little kit and a ledger. Eventually I got the stamp. Whew.
Now I could head back to Guinea. I had to cross the army checkpoint I was hassled at earlier. That was actually easier than I though. I just quickly explained what I had done, then gave a quick "Au revoir". Good enough. There was a similar routine on the Guinea side of the boarder. I had to get a stamp at the police station. The police station looked exactly like all the other mud brick huts in Sansale. I had to ask around for a gide to find it. I did get the stamp from the shirtless guy who I think was the police chief. Tight border controls in this part of the world.
Originally I wanted to make it to Boke. It was getting late and I didn't think that was going to happen. I was hoping to just make it to a town called Dabiss. The problem is there really isn't a road in this part of world. M bike trail is more like it. I am not kiding. I went through about 20 miles of countryside on single track. Sometimes on boardwalks over streams that must be torrents in the rainy season.
My hopes were dashed when I arrived at a small village on the edge of an estuary right before sunset. The method of crossing was dugout canoe. That was the only route to Boke they said. Yee-haw. I guess the bike wasn't a bid deal since they were already taking a motorcycle. I helped get the stuff in, and push the canoe out into the water through knee deep mud. My only hope was that any parasites in the mud would have been killed off by gasoline spilled all over the beach. I am not sure if that is a sad thought to have.
Still, we did get to the other side without capsizing. I am not quite sure of the physics behind it. I was almost sure we were top heavy. I at least know how to swim though. Then it was another mess pulling the canoe out of the mud and up on the beach so it could be unloaded. My legs and pants were just covered in mud by the end.
Oh, and it was dark by this point. I didn't really feel like riding through the bush at night. One of the guys on the boat said to talk to Mr. Kalful in town. We met him along the way into the little village. This was actually the one bright spot of the day. He let me use a spare bedroom he had. It even had a mosquito net. Plus they fed me dinner. I don't speak Soussou, the local language. The version of french spoken here is usually just broken phrases. So communication was a bit difficult. Still, I got across that I was on a bicycle tour across the world. They seemed pretty excited about that.
For dinner they had rice with peanut sauce. Plus what I thought were meatballs. That was sort of right. They were fish balls. I really don't like fish in Africa. It is the cheap meat, so it gets used a lot. Often it is old and not refrigerated, so it had a bad fishy taste. That wasn't a problem here though. There is one other big problem. Bones. You would think when they make a fish ball, the person would take out the bones. Or the fins. Nope. I spent half the time spitting out bones. Still, I was quite thankful for the meal. It was quite tasty despite the bones.
I just can't believe what a warm and friendly welcome I received. It really redeemed the whole day.
-Dravis
Distance: 97km
Country: Guinea
Song of the Day: Map of Your Head - Muse
What a miserable failure of a day. I just couldn't seem to do anything right. It doesn't look like there are many good roads out of Guinea-Bissau to Guinea. I was hoping to take a little dirt road. I made the first turn okay, but not the second one. If I had checked my map, I might have noticed. Nope. Then again it must not have been that well marked. It might not even be more than a single track through the bush. So instead I went 30km along a road parallel to the border.
Eventually I met a guy who said he could take me across the border. He did this all too effectively. I ended up in Guinea without passing any checkpoints. Crap. I had just smuggled myself into a new country. My over eager guide dropped me off in Sansale and I had to go back 7km to Guinea-Bissau. On the way I got hassled at an army checkpoint on the Guinea side for a bribe. First time anyone had overtly asked for one. After a few minutes of refusing he let me go.
Finally I found my way back to Guinea-Bissau. The border was just a rope with old socks tied to it. There was a sort of army checkpoint there. It consisted of three guys hanging out in the shade. One of them had camo on. That was it. I had to explain why I was coming into the country, but wanted an exit stamp. I wasn't even sure that they could give me a stamp. But one of the guys pulled out a little kit and a ledger. Eventually I got the stamp. Whew.
Now I could head back to Guinea. I had to cross the army checkpoint I was hassled at earlier. That was actually easier than I though. I just quickly explained what I had done, then gave a quick "Au revoir". Good enough. There was a similar routine on the Guinea side of the boarder. I had to get a stamp at the police station. The police station looked exactly like all the other mud brick huts in Sansale. I had to ask around for a gide to find it. I did get the stamp from the shirtless guy who I think was the police chief. Tight border controls in this part of the world.
Originally I wanted to make it to Boke. It was getting late and I didn't think that was going to happen. I was hoping to just make it to a town called Dabiss. The problem is there really isn't a road in this part of world. M bike trail is more like it. I am not kiding. I went through about 20 miles of countryside on single track. Sometimes on boardwalks over streams that must be torrents in the rainy season.
My hopes were dashed when I arrived at a small village on the edge of an estuary right before sunset. The method of crossing was dugout canoe. That was the only route to Boke they said. Yee-haw. I guess the bike wasn't a bid deal since they were already taking a motorcycle. I helped get the stuff in, and push the canoe out into the water through knee deep mud. My only hope was that any parasites in the mud would have been killed off by gasoline spilled all over the beach. I am not sure if that is a sad thought to have.
Still, we did get to the other side without capsizing. I am not quite sure of the physics behind it. I was almost sure we were top heavy. I at least know how to swim though. Then it was another mess pulling the canoe out of the mud and up on the beach so it could be unloaded. My legs and pants were just covered in mud by the end.
Oh, and it was dark by this point. I didn't really feel like riding through the bush at night. One of the guys on the boat said to talk to Mr. Kalful in town. We met him along the way into the little village. This was actually the one bright spot of the day. He let me use a spare bedroom he had. It even had a mosquito net. Plus they fed me dinner. I don't speak Soussou, the local language. The version of french spoken here is usually just broken phrases. So communication was a bit difficult. Still, I got across that I was on a bicycle tour across the world. They seemed pretty excited about that.
For dinner they had rice with peanut sauce. Plus what I thought were meatballs. That was sort of right. They were fish balls. I really don't like fish in Africa. It is the cheap meat, so it gets used a lot. Often it is old and not refrigerated, so it had a bad fishy taste. That wasn't a problem here though. There is one other big problem. Bones. You would think when they make a fish ball, the person would take out the bones. Or the fins. Nope. I spent half the time spitting out bones. Still, I was quite thankful for the meal. It was quite tasty despite the bones.
I just can't believe what a warm and friendly welcome I received. It really redeemed the whole day.
-Dravis
Bambadinca to Quebo - Day 207
Date: March 13th, 2010
Distance: 78km
Country: Guinea-Bissau
Woke up early. I was glad to be out of that place. It occurred to me as I was falling asleep that the place I was at could have been a brothel. That didn't make the sleep any better.
On the road it was just more cycling into the wind and heat. I did camp out for a bit in the afternoon. Found some nicy shady trees to sit under. I almost fell asleep. The head of the nearby compound must have seem me though. He brought out a small mattress for me to lay on. How cool is that? If it had been earlier, I really would have fallen asleep. Sadly I only rested for a bit before pressing on.
Crossing the Rio Courbal was kind of fun though. There was a hotel nearby. It looked expensive, but I almost stayed there so I could go swimming in the river. There were a ton of local kids frolicking around. Looked fun.
No, I pressed on to Quebo. They had a decent hotel in town. No electricity or running water. But there was a bathroom and a big trashcan of water. I knew what that was for. So it all worked. I got a shower and headed into town for food. I didn't stay up that late. Preferring to get a good night of sleep instead.
-Dravis
Distance: 78km
Country: Guinea-Bissau
Woke up early. I was glad to be out of that place. It occurred to me as I was falling asleep that the place I was at could have been a brothel. That didn't make the sleep any better.
On the road it was just more cycling into the wind and heat. I did camp out for a bit in the afternoon. Found some nicy shady trees to sit under. I almost fell asleep. The head of the nearby compound must have seem me though. He brought out a small mattress for me to lay on. How cool is that? If it had been earlier, I really would have fallen asleep. Sadly I only rested for a bit before pressing on.
Crossing the Rio Courbal was kind of fun though. There was a hotel nearby. It looked expensive, but I almost stayed there so I could go swimming in the river. There were a ton of local kids frolicking around. Looked fun.
No, I pressed on to Quebo. They had a decent hotel in town. No electricity or running water. But there was a bathroom and a big trashcan of water. I knew what that was for. So it all worked. I got a shower and headed into town for food. I didn't stay up that late. Preferring to get a good night of sleep instead.
-Dravis
Bissau to Bambadinca - Day 206
Date: March 12th, 2010
Distance: 121km
Country: Guinea-Bissau
I spent the morning at the bank. I wanted to get a little bit of cash before heading to Guinea. I had heard there really weren't any banks there. So I wanted to stock up while I could. You can't just get stuff from the ATM though. You have to withdraw cash from the teller. So that involved a lot of waiting. It did work eventually though.
I also saw Tony there. I guess he had tried to get the frame welded. He said the guy had fixed that, but burned through all the cables and chain while doing it. After being in Africa 3 months, I know not to let anyone here try and fix my bike. Most fixes involve too much hammer for my taste. Plus I don't know if a guy here really knows the correct alloys to used to repair a bike frame. Oh well, I tried to warn him.
After the trip to the bank, I got on the road. I had a long way to go, but the good part was it was cloudy. I never knew cloudy days could be so wonderful. I was making almost 20km an hour, even into the headwind. Plus I didn't need to stop in the middle of the day. Just great. So I decided to push on to Bambadinca.
When I got into town I ran into a bit of a situation. It didn't seem like there was a hotel there. I though that I could just head to the next village and inquire about staying in a compound there. But first I should get some food. I was famished. I got a sandwich for dinner and some milk. By that point I had found someone who knew of a hotel in town.
The hotel was a shit-hole. Just a dirty room, with a dirty foam mattress covered in a wool blanket. The bathroom was just a dirty turkish toilet. The door didn't even have hinges. You just placed it over the doorway as best you could. Nice. Still, it was cheap. I ended up moving the mattress and just pitching my tent in the room. At least that way I would be clean and bug free. Life on the road isn't always that easy.
-Dravis
Distance: 121km
Country: Guinea-Bissau
I spent the morning at the bank. I wanted to get a little bit of cash before heading to Guinea. I had heard there really weren't any banks there. So I wanted to stock up while I could. You can't just get stuff from the ATM though. You have to withdraw cash from the teller. So that involved a lot of waiting. It did work eventually though.
I also saw Tony there. I guess he had tried to get the frame welded. He said the guy had fixed that, but burned through all the cables and chain while doing it. After being in Africa 3 months, I know not to let anyone here try and fix my bike. Most fixes involve too much hammer for my taste. Plus I don't know if a guy here really knows the correct alloys to used to repair a bike frame. Oh well, I tried to warn him.
After the trip to the bank, I got on the road. I had a long way to go, but the good part was it was cloudy. I never knew cloudy days could be so wonderful. I was making almost 20km an hour, even into the headwind. Plus I didn't need to stop in the middle of the day. Just great. So I decided to push on to Bambadinca.
When I got into town I ran into a bit of a situation. It didn't seem like there was a hotel there. I though that I could just head to the next village and inquire about staying in a compound there. But first I should get some food. I was famished. I got a sandwich for dinner and some milk. By that point I had found someone who knew of a hotel in town.
The hotel was a shit-hole. Just a dirty room, with a dirty foam mattress covered in a wool blanket. The bathroom was just a dirty turkish toilet. The door didn't even have hinges. You just placed it over the doorway as best you could. Nice. Still, it was cheap. I ended up moving the mattress and just pitching my tent in the room. At least that way I would be clean and bug free. Life on the road isn't always that easy.
-Dravis
Bissau - Day 205
Date: March 11th, 2010
Distance: None
Country: Bissau
My missions for the day were to find a cyber cafe and an embassy for Mali, if there even was one here. I only barely succeeded at one of them. After walking around all morning, I gave up on finding an embassy. I don't think there is one for Mali in Bissau.
My next plan was to find some internet. The first cyber cafe I found had no internet connection. The next one wouldn't let me plug in my laptop. I don't know why. Sure, they let you plug in any USB stick, by a laptop, no way. Annoying. After wandering for an hour I found a third place to try. I couldn't get a connection to come up for that either. Argh. Finally I did find a super expensive way to connect. I sat in the lobby of an expensive hotel and used their wi-fi for $2 an hour. Ugh.
All in all, not a successful day.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Bissau
My missions for the day were to find a cyber cafe and an embassy for Mali, if there even was one here. I only barely succeeded at one of them. After walking around all morning, I gave up on finding an embassy. I don't think there is one for Mali in Bissau.
My next plan was to find some internet. The first cyber cafe I found had no internet connection. The next one wouldn't let me plug in my laptop. I don't know why. Sure, they let you plug in any USB stick, by a laptop, no way. Annoying. After wandering for an hour I found a third place to try. I couldn't get a connection to come up for that either. Argh. Finally I did find a super expensive way to connect. I sat in the lobby of an expensive hotel and used their wi-fi for $2 an hour. Ugh.
All in all, not a successful day.
-Dravis
Ingore to Bissau - Day 204
Date: March 10th, 2010
Distance: 86km
Country: Guinea-Bissau
Song of the Day: Another Day in Paradise - Phil Collins
More good riding today. Still hot out though. That and the seemingly constant head wind makes it a slow go. Still, I made it to the capital of this former Portuguese colony. I was hoping to find a cheap hotel to stay out. That turned out to be harder than I expected. I stopped at one place that looked way to nice. I didn't even inquire as to the cost.
I did ask some of the guys outside for a cheaper hotel. One said he would take me to a place down the street. This one looked much more simple. When I asked about the price, the guy said "45 hundred". That is about 9 bucks. I can do that. I went upstairs and the place was amazing. It had air conditioning on full blast so it was cool. I almost cried. When I went to pay though, the guy said it was "45 thousand". That is about 90 bucks. As much as I wanted to stay, I just can't afford that. So I grabbed my stuff and went out again.
On the way to the next hotel this guy started talking to me. His name is Tony, and he is French. It turns out he is touring as well, but on a recumbent bike. First time I had seen that. I guess he was staying at the cheapest place he could find, but that was still 15 thousand a night. Oh well. I need to stay somewhere.
At the hotel, Tony showed me his rig. I still am not quite sure where all his stuff fits. He had stopped in town to see if he could get his frame fixed. It broke right along one of the weld lines. I told him he needed to sent it back and get a replacement. That is a manufacturing defect. Tony said there was a guy in town who could fix it though. I was dubious.
In the evening I wandered around for a bit trying to find a cheap place to eat and a cyber cafe. Failed at both. The place I found did serve inexpensive food, but it was tiny. I think you were supposed to order a whole mess of things. Not just one item. I got one skewer with a tiny bit of meat on it. That is why the waiter gave me a funny look when I ordered. I couldn't find a cyber cafe at all.
What can I say about Bissau? Frankly it seems like a weird version of Las Vegas. Not for the casinos, but for the way they cater to tourists. It seems like there must be deals on cheap hotels, or good place to eat. I just can't find them. Frustrating.
-Dravis
Distance: 86km
Country: Guinea-Bissau
Song of the Day: Another Day in Paradise - Phil Collins
More good riding today. Still hot out though. That and the seemingly constant head wind makes it a slow go. Still, I made it to the capital of this former Portuguese colony. I was hoping to find a cheap hotel to stay out. That turned out to be harder than I expected. I stopped at one place that looked way to nice. I didn't even inquire as to the cost.
I did ask some of the guys outside for a cheaper hotel. One said he would take me to a place down the street. This one looked much more simple. When I asked about the price, the guy said "45 hundred". That is about 9 bucks. I can do that. I went upstairs and the place was amazing. It had air conditioning on full blast so it was cool. I almost cried. When I went to pay though, the guy said it was "45 thousand". That is about 90 bucks. As much as I wanted to stay, I just can't afford that. So I grabbed my stuff and went out again.
On the way to the next hotel this guy started talking to me. His name is Tony, and he is French. It turns out he is touring as well, but on a recumbent bike. First time I had seen that. I guess he was staying at the cheapest place he could find, but that was still 15 thousand a night. Oh well. I need to stay somewhere.
At the hotel, Tony showed me his rig. I still am not quite sure where all his stuff fits. He had stopped in town to see if he could get his frame fixed. It broke right along one of the weld lines. I told him he needed to sent it back and get a replacement. That is a manufacturing defect. Tony said there was a guy in town who could fix it though. I was dubious.
In the evening I wandered around for a bit trying to find a cheap place to eat and a cyber cafe. Failed at both. The place I found did serve inexpensive food, but it was tiny. I think you were supposed to order a whole mess of things. Not just one item. I got one skewer with a tiny bit of meat on it. That is why the waiter gave me a funny look when I ordered. I couldn't find a cyber cafe at all.
What can I say about Bissau? Frankly it seems like a weird version of Las Vegas. Not for the casinos, but for the way they cater to tourists. It seems like there must be deals on cheap hotels, or good place to eat. I just can't find them. Frustrating.
-Dravis
Ziganchor to Ingore - Day 203
Date: March 9th, 2010
Distance: 71km
Country: Guinea-Bissau
Woke up and got packed. Derrek and I went out for omelet sandwiches. After that we parted ways. He was touring around the Cassamance for a couple more days, and I was heading to Guinea-Bissau. Darrek, good luck man. Enjoy Brazil.
Crossing the boarder wasn't bad. No real problems. Just getting some paperwork stamped. Welcome to Guinea-Bissau. Country 16.
The day was still miserably hot. Two things did make it easier. First was the scenery. I have left the Sahel zone. So no more savanna like grasslands. Instead I am getting into real tropical forests. Bright green. Great to cycle through. The other thing was the guy selling bissap along the road. I can't remember the ingredients anymore. It is some local type of berry and water and sugar. Quite tasty and refreshing. I wish I had gotten more.
I was still running into a headwind, which is frustrating. So I didn't make it as far as I wanted. Instead I stopped in the town of Ingore. They have a hotel, and power (after 8:30PM). No running water though. There was a big trash can of water for washing up though. Close enough for me.
I had a cozy dinner by candle light in a small shack along the road. Spaghetti with a bit of canned meat and mayonase. Surprisingly, it was great. Then again, I am hungry a lot. After that it was off to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 71km
Country: Guinea-Bissau
Woke up and got packed. Derrek and I went out for omelet sandwiches. After that we parted ways. He was touring around the Cassamance for a couple more days, and I was heading to Guinea-Bissau. Darrek, good luck man. Enjoy Brazil.
Crossing the boarder wasn't bad. No real problems. Just getting some paperwork stamped. Welcome to Guinea-Bissau. Country 16.
The day was still miserably hot. Two things did make it easier. First was the scenery. I have left the Sahel zone. So no more savanna like grasslands. Instead I am getting into real tropical forests. Bright green. Great to cycle through. The other thing was the guy selling bissap along the road. I can't remember the ingredients anymore. It is some local type of berry and water and sugar. Quite tasty and refreshing. I wish I had gotten more.
I was still running into a headwind, which is frustrating. So I didn't make it as far as I wanted. Instead I stopped in the town of Ingore. They have a hotel, and power (after 8:30PM). No running water though. There was a big trash can of water for washing up though. Close enough for me.
I had a cozy dinner by candle light in a small shack along the road. Spaghetti with a bit of canned meat and mayonase. Surprisingly, it was great. Then again, I am hungry a lot. After that it was off to bed.
-Dravis
Jiboro to Ziganchor - Day 202
Date: March 8th, 2010
Distance: 96km
Country: Senegal
Today I started off by crossing back into Senegal. No real problems at the border. There were a few signs out for land mines though. That is always fun to see. I guess the area that Ziganchor is in is called the Cassemance. There is a group of separatist rebels that operate in the area. So I was warned to stick to the main roads and not travel at night. Good advice.
Actually, I didn't notice any problems. There were a few army trucks full of men in camo rolling by. Other than that the place seemed pretty calm. I stopped for lunch in the shade under some trees. When I stopped I noticed that it was also being used to shade an army checkpoint. They were actually very nice, and gave me a bench to sit on. Maybe it was just the day I was there, but it really didn't seem like they were on high alert.
Just outside of Zig I saw another cyclist. It turns out he was from Seattle as well. Derrek had just finished up a Masters program at the UW and had taken a travel grant. Pretty cool. He had just rear packs on, which I wouldn't think of as enough. He was making it work though. Plus his bike and frame couplings so it could be taken apart and packed up for a flight. He knew a cheap place to stay in Zig, so I went with him.
The last 8km into the city was along a brick causeway winding through a mangrove swamp. It was really pretty. I sort of thought the bricks might have been used because they were more resistant to the effects of the water. We were only a couple of inches above the water. Any good storm must just wash over the roads.
In town we found the Campamont to stay at. We also headed out to a place to get some dinner. e explained a little more of his story. I guess he was flying to various places and touring around on the bike. This was also the end of the African expedition. From here he was heading to Brazil.
After dinner we were both pretty tired and pretty much just crashed.
-Dravis
Distance: 96km
Country: Senegal
Today I started off by crossing back into Senegal. No real problems at the border. There were a few signs out for land mines though. That is always fun to see. I guess the area that Ziganchor is in is called the Cassemance. There is a group of separatist rebels that operate in the area. So I was warned to stick to the main roads and not travel at night. Good advice.
Actually, I didn't notice any problems. There were a few army trucks full of men in camo rolling by. Other than that the place seemed pretty calm. I stopped for lunch in the shade under some trees. When I stopped I noticed that it was also being used to shade an army checkpoint. They were actually very nice, and gave me a bench to sit on. Maybe it was just the day I was there, but it really didn't seem like they were on high alert.
Just outside of Zig I saw another cyclist. It turns out he was from Seattle as well. Derrek had just finished up a Masters program at the UW and had taken a travel grant. Pretty cool. He had just rear packs on, which I wouldn't think of as enough. He was making it work though. Plus his bike and frame couplings so it could be taken apart and packed up for a flight. He knew a cheap place to stay in Zig, so I went with him.
The last 8km into the city was along a brick causeway winding through a mangrove swamp. It was really pretty. I sort of thought the bricks might have been used because they were more resistant to the effects of the water. We were only a couple of inches above the water. Any good storm must just wash over the roads.
In town we found the Campamont to stay at. We also headed out to a place to get some dinner. e explained a little more of his story. I guess he was flying to various places and touring around on the bike. This was also the end of the African expedition. From here he was heading to Brazil.
After dinner we were both pretty tired and pretty much just crashed.
-Dravis
Kombo to Jiboro - Day 201
Date: March 7th, 2010
Distance: 54km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: I Stay Away - Alice in Chains
I almost got up early and took off. I just wasn't feeling it. Instead I went over to Ketchikali Sacred Crocodile Pool. That was actually pretty cool. They had a bit of a museum there that told some of the history of The Gambia. Plus they had artifacts and other items. The real cool part was the crocodiles. These aren't huge monsters. They do let you touch them. Crocs are actually cold to the touch. I guess that is the whole cold-blooded thing. Still, it seems odd when you are used to handling warm-blooded pets such as cats and dogs.
From there I went back to the compound I had been staying at. I did hang out with Jeff, his girlfriend Annie, and Conner for a bit. Maybe too long, but I didn't have that far to go.
Originally I wanted to make it all the way to Ziganchor in one day. Looking at the map that started looking really far. So Jeff connected me with a volunteer near the boarder. So I ended up staying with Rochelle in her little village. Her place was amazing. In the room next door they had a real living room set up. With chairs and a TV (powered by a generator).
Rochelle and I spent a while talking about life in The Gambia. I guess she made a bracelet for one of the kids and then all the kids needed one. That was one day just for making bracelets. So she was on a no present policy. Too much work. Still, I wanted to get an early start in the morning and went to bed fairly early.
-Dravis
Distance: 54km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: I Stay Away - Alice in Chains
I almost got up early and took off. I just wasn't feeling it. Instead I went over to Ketchikali Sacred Crocodile Pool. That was actually pretty cool. They had a bit of a museum there that told some of the history of The Gambia. Plus they had artifacts and other items. The real cool part was the crocodiles. These aren't huge monsters. They do let you touch them. Crocs are actually cold to the touch. I guess that is the whole cold-blooded thing. Still, it seems odd when you are used to handling warm-blooded pets such as cats and dogs.
From there I went back to the compound I had been staying at. I did hang out with Jeff, his girlfriend Annie, and Conner for a bit. Maybe too long, but I didn't have that far to go.
Originally I wanted to make it all the way to Ziganchor in one day. Looking at the map that started looking really far. So Jeff connected me with a volunteer near the boarder. So I ended up staying with Rochelle in her little village. Her place was amazing. In the room next door they had a real living room set up. With chairs and a TV (powered by a generator).
Rochelle and I spent a while talking about life in The Gambia. I guess she made a bracelet for one of the kids and then all the kids needed one. That was one day just for making bracelets. So she was on a no present policy. Too much work. Still, I wanted to get an early start in the morning and went to bed fairly early.
-Dravis
Kombo - Day 200
Date: March 6th, 2010
Distance: None
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Fulfill the Dream - Minus the Bear
I really haven't done much the last couple days. Mostly sleep, and crawl out to find some food. Being sick is lame. I guess my ox like immune system is still failable.
Finally feeling better in time for a dinner party Conner was throwing. Getting to know him over the last couple of days has been pretty cool. I guess he works in Portland finding housing for the homeless. He also is an artist in his spare time. So he has been working on some stuff around the compound.
I also went out to the beach with Conner, Jeff, Jeff's girlfriend Annie, and their friend Kris. It was a lot of fun. Jeff brought along a frizbee and we spent some time throwing the disk around.
We also had lunch at a beach side cafe. While we were there two Scottish guys that Conner had met showed up. They had just been filming a movie in The Gambia. Trying to help the local production companies get started. I guess they had a dinner with the president the night before, but the guys who were running things couldn't get the movie to play. So all that work and no one saw it.
From there it was back to the place to get cleaned up and ready for dinner. Conner had ordered a bunch of food at a local restaurant. We hung out for a while, and the food was great. The place was run by a ex-pat british lady named Jill. She was really cool. So we had a fun time with people just talking and having a good time.
A few of us ended up back at Jeff's place and stayed up late talking and throwing a foam basketball. Lots of fun.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Fulfill the Dream - Minus the Bear
I really haven't done much the last couple days. Mostly sleep, and crawl out to find some food. Being sick is lame. I guess my ox like immune system is still failable.
Finally feeling better in time for a dinner party Conner was throwing. Getting to know him over the last couple of days has been pretty cool. I guess he works in Portland finding housing for the homeless. He also is an artist in his spare time. So he has been working on some stuff around the compound.
I also went out to the beach with Conner, Jeff, Jeff's girlfriend Annie, and their friend Kris. It was a lot of fun. Jeff brought along a frizbee and we spent some time throwing the disk around.
We also had lunch at a beach side cafe. While we were there two Scottish guys that Conner had met showed up. They had just been filming a movie in The Gambia. Trying to help the local production companies get started. I guess they had a dinner with the president the night before, but the guys who were running things couldn't get the movie to play. So all that work and no one saw it.
From there it was back to the place to get cleaned up and ready for dinner. Conner had ordered a bunch of food at a local restaurant. We hung out for a while, and the food was great. The place was run by a ex-pat british lady named Jill. She was really cool. So we had a fun time with people just talking and having a good time.
A few of us ended up back at Jeff's place and stayed up late talking and throwing a foam basketball. Lots of fun.
-Dravis
Kanjibat to Kombo - Day 197
Date: March 3rd, 2010
Distance: 18km (Plus a gele-gele ride.)
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Low Desert - R.E.M.
Woke up and the headache had only gotten worse. I did my best to kill it with lots of water and some Gatorade powder. I also used the time to patch my bike tube. The first one was a bust, but the second one I tried held. Lets see how long that lasts.
After that I packed up and got ready to go. Thanks to Lindsay and her family for letting me stay. Good luck with all the kids.
Then it was back on the road. Sadly the headache didn't stay gone. Not only that but it came back with a whole body ache and a fever. Plus it was still amazingly hot. So riding in hot weather with a fever can't be good. I only made it 18km before calling it quits.
Instead I found a shady spot along the side of the road and hitched a ride on the next gele-gele. These are pretty much the same as the tranzis in Morocco. A little bus crammed with people and stuff. After I got on some lady got on with her goat. That was a first for me. Being on public transit with livestock.
The gele-gele stopped in Brikama. So I had to get out and find another one going to Kombo. The heat was terrible, so it took a little doing. With some help I found one heading my direction. I also bought a couple of "ice". That did seem to help with the headache a bit.
Once in Kombo (the capital area) I went over to the Stoge house. My friend Evelyn was there and she said it was cool to crash there. This was almost right. I guess there was a big training session going on though, and they weren't even letting other Peace Corps stay there. But I she did introduce me to a guy Jeff and his friend Conner. Jeff was Peace Corps. Conner was just visiting and staying at the compound with Jeff. There was an extra room at their compound. Good enough for me. I just wanted to sleep. So I headed over there and pretty much crashed.
-Dravis
Distance: 18km (Plus a gele-gele ride.)
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Low Desert - R.E.M.
Woke up and the headache had only gotten worse. I did my best to kill it with lots of water and some Gatorade powder. I also used the time to patch my bike tube. The first one was a bust, but the second one I tried held. Lets see how long that lasts.
After that I packed up and got ready to go. Thanks to Lindsay and her family for letting me stay. Good luck with all the kids.
Then it was back on the road. Sadly the headache didn't stay gone. Not only that but it came back with a whole body ache and a fever. Plus it was still amazingly hot. So riding in hot weather with a fever can't be good. I only made it 18km before calling it quits.
Instead I found a shady spot along the side of the road and hitched a ride on the next gele-gele. These are pretty much the same as the tranzis in Morocco. A little bus crammed with people and stuff. After I got on some lady got on with her goat. That was a first for me. Being on public transit with livestock.
The gele-gele stopped in Brikama. So I had to get out and find another one going to Kombo. The heat was terrible, so it took a little doing. With some help I found one heading my direction. I also bought a couple of "ice". That did seem to help with the headache a bit.
Once in Kombo (the capital area) I went over to the Stoge house. My friend Evelyn was there and she said it was cool to crash there. This was almost right. I guess there was a big training session going on though, and they weren't even letting other Peace Corps stay there. But I she did introduce me to a guy Jeff and his friend Conner. Jeff was Peace Corps. Conner was just visiting and staying at the compound with Jeff. There was an extra room at their compound. Good enough for me. I just wanted to sleep. So I headed over there and pretty much crashed.
-Dravis
Medina Wallum to Kanjibat - Day 196
Date: March 2nd, 2010
Distance: 78km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Goodnight Elizabeth - Counting Crows
I woke up and said goodbye to ET and Mr. Wallum. He wanted to know when ET was going to repay the favor. I love that. In this culture, staying with someone is a favor. Actually, ET's host family wanted me to stay a few more days. Sadly that isn't my lot in life, I must move on. To ET, thanks I had such a great time. Have a great time with all those kids!
From there it was a long trip along the road. Still hot. Still into the wind. More hard miles. Even worse I got a flat tire about 10km out from Kanjibat. I know I could have fixed it, but by that point it would be dark. So I hitched a ride. A guy from a Swedish NGO stopped to pick me up. Really, people are just so friendly here. They really are willing to do anything they can to help people out. So to Buba, from Future In Our Hands, thanks!
In Kanjibat I met up with Linsay, a PCV that ET had gotten me in touch with. I was introduced to her host family and another gaggle of kids. I spent the time before dinner showing them how to make various noises. The villages where peace corps has been to must have a strange sort of culture once they leave. Bizarre bits of Americana imported into strange places. Lindsay, I am sorry if you kids will be annoying you with lots of noises from now on.
After dinner I had a bit of a headache and went to bed pretty early.
-Dravis
Distance: 78km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Goodnight Elizabeth - Counting Crows
I woke up and said goodbye to ET and Mr. Wallum. He wanted to know when ET was going to repay the favor. I love that. In this culture, staying with someone is a favor. Actually, ET's host family wanted me to stay a few more days. Sadly that isn't my lot in life, I must move on. To ET, thanks I had such a great time. Have a great time with all those kids!
From there it was a long trip along the road. Still hot. Still into the wind. More hard miles. Even worse I got a flat tire about 10km out from Kanjibat. I know I could have fixed it, but by that point it would be dark. So I hitched a ride. A guy from a Swedish NGO stopped to pick me up. Really, people are just so friendly here. They really are willing to do anything they can to help people out. So to Buba, from Future In Our Hands, thanks!
In Kanjibat I met up with Linsay, a PCV that ET had gotten me in touch with. I was introduced to her host family and another gaggle of kids. I spent the time before dinner showing them how to make various noises. The villages where peace corps has been to must have a strange sort of culture once they leave. Bizarre bits of Americana imported into strange places. Lindsay, I am sorry if you kids will be annoying you with lots of noises from now on.
After dinner I had a bit of a headache and went to bed pretty early.
-Dravis
Bansang to Medina Wallum - Day 195
Date: March 1st, 2010
Distance: 84km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Future Soon - Jonathan Coultan
I woke up and said goodbye to my hosts. To Chris and Melanie, thanks for dinner and letting me hang out. To Marnie, thanks for everything, you have been such a big help on my Gambian adventure. I hope all goes well here in your remaining months here!
From there I took off down the road. First there was bad news though. The south bank road sucks. I knew that going into it, but that really didn't make it any better. I guess it was paved back in 1962 when the Queen visited. But since then it has pretty much been left to crumble. There was one little section where only a small strip of the pavement in the center of the road was left intact. Just a little ribbon reminding everyone who drove by what once was there.
The other bad news was the wind had changed direction. Sure it was no longer the winds the were baking me on the way up. These were cooler, coming in from the ocean. Still, can't a brother get a break here? Why must I always bash my way into the wind.
I talked with Marnie before I left. She gave me a couple of choices of people I could stay with. I knew I was going to make it to ET's site about 80km away. Still by the afternoon I was looking for a place to camp out from the heat, so I called up Katie. Sitting out the heat is still a great plan. There really isn't any reason to be out during that time.
I met up with Katie and she took me over to her place. I must admit I drank a ton of her water. I also helped her find the punctures in here bike tube. Actually, there were two of them. So maybe it all works out. (I hope that you got that fixed okay.) She also took me out to the local market so I could buy some peanut butter. "I like my peanut butter lady" she said. That is one thing about living in a place like this, you really know where your stuff comes from.
Anyway, before too long though, I had to get back on the road. It isn't much cooler in the late afternoons, but the wait at least meant I wasn't riding through the worst of it.
I got to Medina Wallum before sunset and met up with ET. He took me back to his hut and I grabbed a shower. That really is one of my little pleasures in life these days. Cooling off and getting clean. What more could I ask.
After that ET showed me around Medina Wallum. I think his village is the smallest of any of the ones I have been to. Probably less than 200 people. They are Pullars, so basically a nomadic herding people. They have cows. I also met the founder of the village, Mr. Wallum. I guess he had been a MP for a time in England. I don't know what strange circumstance lead him back here. He was back though, and had founded the village. Also had the local school built and was working to make sure the kids got a good education. So that was great. When we met though he was burning the fields to make the room for crops in the rainy season. After dark the fires gave the little village a bit of eerie sense to it.
For dinner we had koos, which is a ground millet. I have heard it described as a ground birdseed, or a colon cleaner. Either way it wasn't bad. I can't say I would want to eat it every day for the next two years though. ET said that he loved it, so I guess that is a good thing. Good luck, man!
In the evening we sat around drinking tea while the kids played around us. At one point, ET and I were ignoring them and the kids just broke into song. It was really cool. I did teach some of the kids various games and things that we learned in school to pass the time. The most shocking thing was how quickly I had become part of the family. I had kids crawling all over me. Everyone just made me feel so at home.
-Dravis
Distance: 84km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Future Soon - Jonathan Coultan
I woke up and said goodbye to my hosts. To Chris and Melanie, thanks for dinner and letting me hang out. To Marnie, thanks for everything, you have been such a big help on my Gambian adventure. I hope all goes well here in your remaining months here!
From there I took off down the road. First there was bad news though. The south bank road sucks. I knew that going into it, but that really didn't make it any better. I guess it was paved back in 1962 when the Queen visited. But since then it has pretty much been left to crumble. There was one little section where only a small strip of the pavement in the center of the road was left intact. Just a little ribbon reminding everyone who drove by what once was there.
The other bad news was the wind had changed direction. Sure it was no longer the winds the were baking me on the way up. These were cooler, coming in from the ocean. Still, can't a brother get a break here? Why must I always bash my way into the wind.
I talked with Marnie before I left. She gave me a couple of choices of people I could stay with. I knew I was going to make it to ET's site about 80km away. Still by the afternoon I was looking for a place to camp out from the heat, so I called up Katie. Sitting out the heat is still a great plan. There really isn't any reason to be out during that time.
I met up with Katie and she took me over to her place. I must admit I drank a ton of her water. I also helped her find the punctures in here bike tube. Actually, there were two of them. So maybe it all works out. (I hope that you got that fixed okay.) She also took me out to the local market so I could buy some peanut butter. "I like my peanut butter lady" she said. That is one thing about living in a place like this, you really know where your stuff comes from.
Anyway, before too long though, I had to get back on the road. It isn't much cooler in the late afternoons, but the wait at least meant I wasn't riding through the worst of it.
I got to Medina Wallum before sunset and met up with ET. He took me back to his hut and I grabbed a shower. That really is one of my little pleasures in life these days. Cooling off and getting clean. What more could I ask.
After that ET showed me around Medina Wallum. I think his village is the smallest of any of the ones I have been to. Probably less than 200 people. They are Pullars, so basically a nomadic herding people. They have cows. I also met the founder of the village, Mr. Wallum. I guess he had been a MP for a time in England. I don't know what strange circumstance lead him back here. He was back though, and had founded the village. Also had the local school built and was working to make sure the kids got a good education. So that was great. When we met though he was burning the fields to make the room for crops in the rainy season. After dark the fires gave the little village a bit of eerie sense to it.
For dinner we had koos, which is a ground millet. I have heard it described as a ground birdseed, or a colon cleaner. Either way it wasn't bad. I can't say I would want to eat it every day for the next two years though. ET said that he loved it, so I guess that is a good thing. Good luck, man!
In the evening we sat around drinking tea while the kids played around us. At one point, ET and I were ignoring them and the kids just broke into song. It was really cool. I did teach some of the kids various games and things that we learned in school to pass the time. The most shocking thing was how quickly I had become part of the family. I had kids crawling all over me. Everyone just made me feel so at home.
-Dravis
Bansang - Day 194
Date: February 28th, 2010
Distance: None
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Fireworks - The Tragically Hip
Headed into Bansang proper today. There was a place there where I could get a bit of internet. A bit was right. It was incredibly slow. If it took a while, at least It did get there eventually. Still not fast enough to do a major post. I also helped out the owner with a little computer problem. I feel like I could run a cyber here, no problem.
Also while waiting for stuff to load I could eat an ice. This is pretty much like what it sounds. It is a frozen bag of flavored water. May not sound that amazing, but when it is hot, these things are amazing. Each one is only about $0.04. I don't know how they don't loose money on them. Not my problem I guess. I only care that they are tasty and cold.
Afterwards I went to meet up with Chris and Melanie who I had met the previous day. They are a couple in VSO. I guess it is a bit like the Peace Corps, but mostly for British and Commonwealth citizens. Also Taiwan if I have my facts right. Chris and Melanie are from Canada themselves. They are working here as physio-therapists at the hospital in Bansang. I guess they have a tone of work here. There are all sorts of people with mobility issues. I guess the worst part is most of them don't get seen until it is way to late. It was neat talking with them about all the work they do.
I was over because the day before Tom had mentioned setting up a rope swing into the Gambia river. I wasn't going to miss that. So when he and his wife came over we all headed on down to the river. I guess the tree Tom usually sets it up in had been hit with a barge though. It was pretty mangled and the normal branch was bent out of the way. Still, we got it all rigged up. Actually, Tom did all of the work. I was impressed with his ability to climb that tree. I thought I was pretty good, but he put my tree climbing skills to shame.
So we spent the rest of the afternoon swinging out into the water. Didn't get eaten by crocs or hippos either. Actually it was a pretty fun time. I must admit my form was a bit off. My feet kept hitting the water and I would flail my way into the water. The one time Tom tried to coach was a disaster though. They kept saying to keep my arms at full extension so I wouldn't jerk my arms at the bottom of the swing. That was never my problem. Instead with my arms full out that only put my feet farther into the water. Fantastic face plant. The last time of the day I got everything right. Perfect swing and release way out into the river. Felt great.
Afterward Chris and Melanie invited us over for dinner. Actually, Chris had arranged to watch some of the Olympics on a TV at the hospital. It was the last night and Canada was playing the US in the hockey finals. So we had teams all set up to root for are respective countries. Marnie and Fern came back to fill out the US cheering section. It was going to be a great night with some good natured rivalry between the countries. It really would have been too, if the only channel that was showing the olympics wasn't an Arabic news channel. Funny thing, ice hockey isn't big in the middle east. Go figure. They showed part of the first period. Then the game shrunk a bit so they could show the commentators. It kept getting smaller until it was only the commentators. I don't understand Arabic, but it seemed like they must have been saying what a weird sport this was. That was the end of that. They switched to a re-run (I kid you not) of a soccer game from 2001. Thanks guys. Soccer from 10 years ago apparently gets better ratings than the Olympics in the middle east. Well, Winter Olympics anyway.
Still, it was a fun night. I don't really have any complaints. Chris and Melanie even let me camp out on their back patio. Frankly I think I got the better end of that deal. Everyone else was on a bed or a couch inside. In a cool climate that might be kind of a rip. But here, it stays hot inside way too long. I was nice and cool in my bug net under the stars.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Fireworks - The Tragically Hip
Headed into Bansang proper today. There was a place there where I could get a bit of internet. A bit was right. It was incredibly slow. If it took a while, at least It did get there eventually. Still not fast enough to do a major post. I also helped out the owner with a little computer problem. I feel like I could run a cyber here, no problem.
Also while waiting for stuff to load I could eat an ice. This is pretty much like what it sounds. It is a frozen bag of flavored water. May not sound that amazing, but when it is hot, these things are amazing. Each one is only about $0.04. I don't know how they don't loose money on them. Not my problem I guess. I only care that they are tasty and cold.
Afterwards I went to meet up with Chris and Melanie who I had met the previous day. They are a couple in VSO. I guess it is a bit like the Peace Corps, but mostly for British and Commonwealth citizens. Also Taiwan if I have my facts right. Chris and Melanie are from Canada themselves. They are working here as physio-therapists at the hospital in Bansang. I guess they have a tone of work here. There are all sorts of people with mobility issues. I guess the worst part is most of them don't get seen until it is way to late. It was neat talking with them about all the work they do.
I was over because the day before Tom had mentioned setting up a rope swing into the Gambia river. I wasn't going to miss that. So when he and his wife came over we all headed on down to the river. I guess the tree Tom usually sets it up in had been hit with a barge though. It was pretty mangled and the normal branch was bent out of the way. Still, we got it all rigged up. Actually, Tom did all of the work. I was impressed with his ability to climb that tree. I thought I was pretty good, but he put my tree climbing skills to shame.
So we spent the rest of the afternoon swinging out into the water. Didn't get eaten by crocs or hippos either. Actually it was a pretty fun time. I must admit my form was a bit off. My feet kept hitting the water and I would flail my way into the water. The one time Tom tried to coach was a disaster though. They kept saying to keep my arms at full extension so I wouldn't jerk my arms at the bottom of the swing. That was never my problem. Instead with my arms full out that only put my feet farther into the water. Fantastic face plant. The last time of the day I got everything right. Perfect swing and release way out into the river. Felt great.
Afterward Chris and Melanie invited us over for dinner. Actually, Chris had arranged to watch some of the Olympics on a TV at the hospital. It was the last night and Canada was playing the US in the hockey finals. So we had teams all set up to root for are respective countries. Marnie and Fern came back to fill out the US cheering section. It was going to be a great night with some good natured rivalry between the countries. It really would have been too, if the only channel that was showing the olympics wasn't an Arabic news channel. Funny thing, ice hockey isn't big in the middle east. Go figure. They showed part of the first period. Then the game shrunk a bit so they could show the commentators. It kept getting smaller until it was only the commentators. I don't understand Arabic, but it seemed like they must have been saying what a weird sport this was. That was the end of that. They switched to a re-run (I kid you not) of a soccer game from 2001. Thanks guys. Soccer from 10 years ago apparently gets better ratings than the Olympics in the middle east. Well, Winter Olympics anyway.
Still, it was a fun night. I don't really have any complaints. Chris and Melanie even let me camp out on their back patio. Frankly I think I got the better end of that deal. Everyone else was on a bed or a couch inside. In a cool climate that might be kind of a rip. But here, it stays hot inside way too long. I was nice and cool in my bug net under the stars.
-Dravis
Janjanbureh to Bansang - Day 193
Date: February 27th, 2010
Distance: 18km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Monkey Goes to Heaven - The Pixies
Okay, so another short day on the road. Marnie had invited me to a goat roast out in Bansang which was't far away. It didn't take me long to get there, but it was a good introduction to the South Bank Road. Basically, something which was paved years ago and never repaired. Now it is mostly a rough dirt road.
Still, I did make it in time for food. It was at the house of a missionary couple, Tom and Adriane. The goat that was purchased turned out to be a little small. So instead we had monkey. Never had monkey before. can add that one to the list. It was actually really good. Plus they had salad, and bread and humus. A really good spread. It was fun sitting around talking with people.
Just as it was getting dark, Marnie took me and her friend Fern back to the compound she is living it. Marnie cooked some dinner (Mac'n'Cheese) for me. We then hung out for a while with her host family. Her host father was making "lait". Kind of like tea, but with sweetened condensed milk. Marnie also explained about the journey I was on. They were pretty impressed with my cycle trip. All the guys wanted to look at my bike. Pretty cool.
-Dravis
Distance: 18km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Monkey Goes to Heaven - The Pixies
Okay, so another short day on the road. Marnie had invited me to a goat roast out in Bansang which was't far away. It didn't take me long to get there, but it was a good introduction to the South Bank Road. Basically, something which was paved years ago and never repaired. Now it is mostly a rough dirt road.
Still, I did make it in time for food. It was at the house of a missionary couple, Tom and Adriane. The goat that was purchased turned out to be a little small. So instead we had monkey. Never had monkey before. can add that one to the list. It was actually really good. Plus they had salad, and bread and humus. A really good spread. It was fun sitting around talking with people.
Just as it was getting dark, Marnie took me and her friend Fern back to the compound she is living it. Marnie cooked some dinner (Mac'n'Cheese) for me. We then hung out for a while with her host family. Her host father was making "lait". Kind of like tea, but with sweetened condensed milk. Marnie also explained about the journey I was on. They were pretty impressed with my cycle trip. All the guys wanted to look at my bike. Pretty cool.
-Dravis
Panchang to Janjanbureh - Day 192
Date: February 26th, 2010
Distance: 54km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Wake Up Time - Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers
I should have gotten up early an been on the road, but I was feeling lazy. Also, I knew I didn't have that far to travel. Instead I started talking with Evelyn, and she is a cool kid. We just hung out chatting until lunch. It was a really pleasant way to spend the morning. Well, with one exception. The goat in the compound must have been annoyed about something. Its calls would punctuate the conversation sounding like a fraternity pledge on a Sunday morning. Other than that it was nice.
Oh, I also changed out my front tire. The tread had all come off by this point, but for some reason the tire was still going strong. After 11,000km it was still hanging in there. I only changed it because I wanted a fatter tire for the rough roads ahead.
After lunch I did say farewell to Evelyn and got onto the road. Evelyn, thanks for letting me crash at your place. Also for the M&Ms.
Leaving late didn't really help me out though as I was now riding through the hot part of the day. Ah well. It all went pretty smoothly. I found my way over to the ferry terminal, as Janjanbureh (Georgetown) is on an island. The ferry service was a little unprofessional. As in having a boat was the only requirement for running a ferry. Still, I made it across with no real issues.
From there I found a place to stay. Actually Marnie, who has been helping me coordinate this crazy trip, recommended it. I stayed at the forest service camp. This was pretty good, mostly because it was cheap, but also had power. So I could charge up my stuff and get some writing done.
-Dravis
Distance: 54km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Wake Up Time - Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers
I should have gotten up early an been on the road, but I was feeling lazy. Also, I knew I didn't have that far to travel. Instead I started talking with Evelyn, and she is a cool kid. We just hung out chatting until lunch. It was a really pleasant way to spend the morning. Well, with one exception. The goat in the compound must have been annoyed about something. Its calls would punctuate the conversation sounding like a fraternity pledge on a Sunday morning. Other than that it was nice.
Oh, I also changed out my front tire. The tread had all come off by this point, but for some reason the tire was still going strong. After 11,000km it was still hanging in there. I only changed it because I wanted a fatter tire for the rough roads ahead.
After lunch I did say farewell to Evelyn and got onto the road. Evelyn, thanks for letting me crash at your place. Also for the M&Ms.
Leaving late didn't really help me out though as I was now riding through the hot part of the day. Ah well. It all went pretty smoothly. I found my way over to the ferry terminal, as Janjanbureh (Georgetown) is on an island. The ferry service was a little unprofessional. As in having a boat was the only requirement for running a ferry. Still, I made it across with no real issues.
From there I found a place to stay. Actually Marnie, who has been helping me coordinate this crazy trip, recommended it. I stayed at the forest service camp. This was pretty good, mostly because it was cheap, but also had power. So I could charge up my stuff and get some writing done.
-Dravis
Farafenni to Panchang - Day 191
Date: February 25th, 2010
Distance: 64km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Evelyn - The Tragically Hip
Steve-O took me out to breakfast this morning. We had omelets. But not American style. This was an omelet sandwich. Really this is just deep fried scrambled eggs with a bit of onion thrown in. Then stuff it in some bread and throw on a bit of mayo and sprinkle on a little Jumbo. (Jumbo is a MSG flavoring that is sold all over the place here.) Not bad. After that I had to hit the road. To Steve-O, thanks man. Good luck.
More hard cycling today. I did have one great plan though. I decided to sit out the hot part of the day. It went better than I could have planned, actually. I got to the town of Kaur and was looking for water. The police/customs station was right next to the bitick (shop). When I went in to get some water the policeman standing there said "The other American is over there." It was a strange way to begin a conversation. But I decided to see who the other American was.
That was how I met Kyle. We hung out for a bit in the shade of a little shop across the street. The owner of the shop was teaching Kyle one of the local languages. He even let me charge my phone, though the power was only going to be on for about 30 more minutes. (That is how power works up river. Usually a bit in the morning, then a bit in the evening. But hey, having power for some part of the day is better than a lot of places.) So Kyle took me over to a place to get a bean sandwhich while I waited for my phone to charge.
Too soon I had to say goodbye to Kyle and head back out into the hot afternoon. It didn't really feel like I had missed much of the heat though. It did start to get reasonable after about 5:00 PM. I was still bundled to keep the heat and dust off of my face. A car rolled by by and the lady leaned out the passenger window and told me I looked like a mummy. It turns out it was a German couple I had me up in Nouakchott. I guess she had recognized me because of my watch. Having your own style does pay off. They pulled over and I stopped to say hello. It really was great to see them. Brightened my day. They were traveling with a van of other German guys they met along the way. Everyone offered me water. Out here that does mean a lot. They are headed out to Mali and I wish them the best of luck!
I got to Panchang almost an hour before sunset. There I met up with, Evelyn, another PCV. We sat around for a while chatting before dinner. She even fed me some M&Ms. So good. You can't really get chocolate here because it will melt in the heat. (In Banjul candy bars are usually located in the same fridge as the soda.) So real chocolate was quite a treat.
After dinner we just sat out in the back of Evelyn's compound and talked. Mostly about stuff we miss from back home. I am a bit envious of the Peace Corps. They at least have a place. All of the volunteers I have seen make whatever apartment/house/hut a home. They set it up the way it makes life easier for them. For me, I am never quite sure where I am going to hang my hat. So I don't have the same comfort in a sense of place. Ah well, we all choose our lot in life.
-Dravis
Distance: 64km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Evelyn - The Tragically Hip
Steve-O took me out to breakfast this morning. We had omelets. But not American style. This was an omelet sandwich. Really this is just deep fried scrambled eggs with a bit of onion thrown in. Then stuff it in some bread and throw on a bit of mayo and sprinkle on a little Jumbo. (Jumbo is a MSG flavoring that is sold all over the place here.) Not bad. After that I had to hit the road. To Steve-O, thanks man. Good luck.
More hard cycling today. I did have one great plan though. I decided to sit out the hot part of the day. It went better than I could have planned, actually. I got to the town of Kaur and was looking for water. The police/customs station was right next to the bitick (shop). When I went in to get some water the policeman standing there said "The other American is over there." It was a strange way to begin a conversation. But I decided to see who the other American was.
That was how I met Kyle. We hung out for a bit in the shade of a little shop across the street. The owner of the shop was teaching Kyle one of the local languages. He even let me charge my phone, though the power was only going to be on for about 30 more minutes. (That is how power works up river. Usually a bit in the morning, then a bit in the evening. But hey, having power for some part of the day is better than a lot of places.) So Kyle took me over to a place to get a bean sandwhich while I waited for my phone to charge.
Too soon I had to say goodbye to Kyle and head back out into the hot afternoon. It didn't really feel like I had missed much of the heat though. It did start to get reasonable after about 5:00 PM. I was still bundled to keep the heat and dust off of my face. A car rolled by by and the lady leaned out the passenger window and told me I looked like a mummy. It turns out it was a German couple I had me up in Nouakchott. I guess she had recognized me because of my watch. Having your own style does pay off. They pulled over and I stopped to say hello. It really was great to see them. Brightened my day. They were traveling with a van of other German guys they met along the way. Everyone offered me water. Out here that does mean a lot. They are headed out to Mali and I wish them the best of luck!
I got to Panchang almost an hour before sunset. There I met up with, Evelyn, another PCV. We sat around for a while chatting before dinner. She even fed me some M&Ms. So good. You can't really get chocolate here because it will melt in the heat. (In Banjul candy bars are usually located in the same fridge as the soda.) So real chocolate was quite a treat.
After dinner we just sat out in the back of Evelyn's compound and talked. Mostly about stuff we miss from back home. I am a bit envious of the Peace Corps. They at least have a place. All of the volunteers I have seen make whatever apartment/house/hut a home. They set it up the way it makes life easier for them. For me, I am never quite sure where I am going to hang my hat. So I don't have the same comfort in a sense of place. Ah well, we all choose our lot in life.
-Dravis
Kuntaya to Farafenni - Day 190
Date: February 24th, 2010
Distance: 90km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Water - The Who
I guess Well's host brother is a baker, so for breakfast we got fresh Tapalapa. This is like a local version of a baguette. Warm and tasty. Oh, plus some tea. Not a bad way to start off the morning. To Wells and his family, thanks for the food and taking me in. Also thanks for the conversation.
Back on the road, the day was once again miserably hot. The winds were back at it as well. I thought the presence of a giant river would have more of an effect on the terrain. That just ins't the case. The land here is just about as dry as in Senegal. Mostly dry grassland with a few hardy trees. Not much shade along the road. Just a real hard day of cycling. I went through 7 or 8 liters of water, plus a couple of sodas. To put that into perspective, try to think of the last time you drank 2 gallons of water in a day. Just miserable.
I did get to Farafenni just before sunset. There I met up with another PCV named Steve-O. It turns out that he is an IT volunteer. I didn't think that was really available here, but apparently so. I guess his job wasn't all that amazing though. More like helping people learn to use the computers. I thought this would be at an internet cafe, but no it was more at local schools and hostpitals. Most of the computers weren't even hooked up to the internet. Shocking. It was neat to hear about what all the issues with computers are over here though. Most places don't even have steady power. This is really an out there kind of place.
-Dravis
Distance: 90km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Water - The Who
I guess Well's host brother is a baker, so for breakfast we got fresh Tapalapa. This is like a local version of a baguette. Warm and tasty. Oh, plus some tea. Not a bad way to start off the morning. To Wells and his family, thanks for the food and taking me in. Also thanks for the conversation.
Back on the road, the day was once again miserably hot. The winds were back at it as well. I thought the presence of a giant river would have more of an effect on the terrain. That just ins't the case. The land here is just about as dry as in Senegal. Mostly dry grassland with a few hardy trees. Not much shade along the road. Just a real hard day of cycling. I went through 7 or 8 liters of water, plus a couple of sodas. To put that into perspective, try to think of the last time you drank 2 gallons of water in a day. Just miserable.
I did get to Farafenni just before sunset. There I met up with another PCV named Steve-O. It turns out that he is an IT volunteer. I didn't think that was really available here, but apparently so. I guess his job wasn't all that amazing though. More like helping people learn to use the computers. I thought this would be at an internet cafe, but no it was more at local schools and hostpitals. Most of the computers weren't even hooked up to the internet. Shocking. It was neat to hear about what all the issues with computers are over here though. Most places don't even have steady power. This is really an out there kind of place.
-Dravis
Bakau to Kuntaya - Day 189
Date: February 23rd, 2010
Distance: 74km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Bicycle Race - Queen
Woke up early and got on the road pretty quick. I wish I had said thank you to Mr. Barry, and his grandson for helping out the previous evening. I just didn't want to wake them. I also didn't feel like running into Bob or any of his cohorts. So I took off.
I just headed into Banjul to get the boat back to Barra. I did make one further stop. This was at the embassy for Sierra Leone to get another visa. It did take a little bit longer than I wanted (about an hour) but I got the visa. It wasn't too much trouble either, though it did cost me $100! At least now I have permission for the next three countries I want to visit.
Now I raced down to the ferry dock. I didn't really need to bother though. It was going to be a while. I thought there might be a couple of ferries working the river, but there is just one. Plus it takes about an hour for it to cross from one side to the other. So at least a two hour round trip, assume no other problems. I had a little time He had stopped in town to see if he could get his frame fixed. It broke right along one of the weld lines. to wait. The ferry didn't dock until a bit after noon. Then I didn't get off at Barra until about 1:30.
The previous evening I had gotten in touch with Marnie, another PCV, who I had met through couch surfing. I told her I was looking to head up river and she was a big help getting in touch with people along the way. I was hoping to make it to Farafenni. This is only about 100km up river. So it would have been a pretty good day. Well, I guess I didn't count on two things. The first was the ferry schedule. It was pretty late to start a long day. The other thing I didn't know about was the wind. Hot, dry, harmattan winds blowing in from Mail. This wind really wasn't as strong as the stuff from Western Sahara. The harmattan here more than made up from that by being hot and dry. It was like being in an oven. I was amazed how much it could sap your strength.
It became apparent I wasn't going to make it. So I called up to make new plans. I would stay with a guy named Wells outside of Kuntaya tonight, and go to Farafenni tomorrow. When I spoke to him, we agreed to meet up at another girl's site just off the road. Wells' bike was there anyway.
So I rode through most of the afternoon and met up with Lindsay. Her little village was just filled with little kids. They were all intrigued by the new toubab in town. At one point I turned around and went "Boo" to all the kids. It was cool to see about 30 of them hop up and run away laughing. (Sorry for scaring your kids, Lindsay.)
After a bit, Wells showed up. He even brought some slightly cool sodas for us. Awesome. After that we said goodbye to Lindsay and headed to his village. The village itself was about one km back down the main highway, then 13km north by bush path. This means more sand. It was a bit of a struggle in places, but I got there in the end.
Once there I met Wells' family, and even had time for a quick shower. His family also invited me to eat with them. This was also an opportunity for them to ask me questions (mostly in Wolof). When I mentioned that I was going to be leaving the next day to continue my journey, Wells' brother's wife asked to come along with me. I told her no problem, just hop on the back. She shot right back (in Wolof) that she would be ready right after breakfast tomorrow.
After dinner Wells and I spent a good couple of hours just chatting. Sometimes about village life. Sometimes about Africa and all its weirdness. It really was a lot of fun. Plus it put me a bit more at ease staying with Peace Corps people. I hate to feel like a mooch. For Wells, it seemed to come down to two things. First, he was supposed to be sharing his Gambian experience/culture with other Americans. My visit was helping to accomplish that. Second, this was one of the few real English conversations he was going to have in his village. Sure some of the people spoke a little bit of English, but not like a native speaker. Even if they did understand the structure correctly, there are still big differences in just plain culture between Gambians living in a tiny village and the average American. So having someone from a similar background was good.
All in all it ended up being a really fun night.
-Dravis
Distance: 74km
Country: The Gambia
Song of the Day: Bicycle Race - Queen
Woke up early and got on the road pretty quick. I wish I had said thank you to Mr. Barry, and his grandson for helping out the previous evening. I just didn't want to wake them. I also didn't feel like running into Bob or any of his cohorts. So I took off.
I just headed into Banjul to get the boat back to Barra. I did make one further stop. This was at the embassy for Sierra Leone to get another visa. It did take a little bit longer than I wanted (about an hour) but I got the visa. It wasn't too much trouble either, though it did cost me $100! At least now I have permission for the next three countries I want to visit.
Now I raced down to the ferry dock. I didn't really need to bother though. It was going to be a while. I thought there might be a couple of ferries working the river, but there is just one. Plus it takes about an hour for it to cross from one side to the other. So at least a two hour round trip, assume no other problems. I had a little time He had stopped in town to see if he could get his frame fixed. It broke right along one of the weld lines. to wait. The ferry didn't dock until a bit after noon. Then I didn't get off at Barra until about 1:30.
The previous evening I had gotten in touch with Marnie, another PCV, who I had met through couch surfing. I told her I was looking to head up river and she was a big help getting in touch with people along the way. I was hoping to make it to Farafenni. This is only about 100km up river. So it would have been a pretty good day. Well, I guess I didn't count on two things. The first was the ferry schedule. It was pretty late to start a long day. The other thing I didn't know about was the wind. Hot, dry, harmattan winds blowing in from Mail. This wind really wasn't as strong as the stuff from Western Sahara. The harmattan here more than made up from that by being hot and dry. It was like being in an oven. I was amazed how much it could sap your strength.
It became apparent I wasn't going to make it. So I called up to make new plans. I would stay with a guy named Wells outside of Kuntaya tonight, and go to Farafenni tomorrow. When I spoke to him, we agreed to meet up at another girl's site just off the road. Wells' bike was there anyway.
So I rode through most of the afternoon and met up with Lindsay. Her little village was just filled with little kids. They were all intrigued by the new toubab in town. At one point I turned around and went "Boo" to all the kids. It was cool to see about 30 of them hop up and run away laughing. (Sorry for scaring your kids, Lindsay.)
After a bit, Wells showed up. He even brought some slightly cool sodas for us. Awesome. After that we said goodbye to Lindsay and headed to his village. The village itself was about one km back down the main highway, then 13km north by bush path. This means more sand. It was a bit of a struggle in places, but I got there in the end.
Once there I met Wells' family, and even had time for a quick shower. His family also invited me to eat with them. This was also an opportunity for them to ask me questions (mostly in Wolof). When I mentioned that I was going to be leaving the next day to continue my journey, Wells' brother's wife asked to come along with me. I told her no problem, just hop on the back. She shot right back (in Wolof) that she would be ready right after breakfast tomorrow.
After dinner Wells and I spent a good couple of hours just chatting. Sometimes about village life. Sometimes about Africa and all its weirdness. It really was a lot of fun. Plus it put me a bit more at ease staying with Peace Corps people. I hate to feel like a mooch. For Wells, it seemed to come down to two things. First, he was supposed to be sharing his Gambian experience/culture with other Americans. My visit was helping to accomplish that. Second, this was one of the few real English conversations he was going to have in his village. Sure some of the people spoke a little bit of English, but not like a native speaker. Even if they did understand the structure correctly, there are still big differences in just plain culture between Gambians living in a tiny village and the average American. So having someone from a similar background was good.
All in all it ended up being a really fun night.
-Dravis
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