Date: January 25th, 2010
Distance: 12 hours on a bus
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Getaway - Stereophonics
I walked all the way from the bus station over to the Mauritanian embassy. I thought I might be the only one there, but as it turns out there was a huge line. Maybe 50 people, all there for the same reason I was. To get a visa. The operation wasn't all that well run either. It took me 30 minutes just to get the visa application form. I am pretty happy with how my french is coming along. I was able to read most of the form without help. I still have a bit of trouble with tenses. Like did they want me to list the countries that I have been to or the ones I am going to? Stood in line for a while and finally handed my stuff in. The guy only asked me a couple of questions, then said "dis-set". I asked him when it would be ready, but the guys behind me got to it first. They told me he had said "dec-sept", or 17. Meaning it would be ready at 5:00 that afternoon. Cool. I was glad it wasn't going to be the next day.
So I wandered back into the center of town and went to my favorite juice place. Grabbed a tall glass of fresh juice and a cheese omelet. Then went to the crepe place next door. I was hoping to use their internet, but it wasn't working. So I just had some food and left. About then, about 3:00 PM, it was time to head back to the embassy. So I wandered back over there. I was hoping that they would be ready early, and maybe I could get another visa (say for The Gambia) while I was here. No such luck. There was a huge line outside again. I did talk with a couple from the low countries and a Guy from New York while waiting. We ended up talking about all our various stories getting visa and passports and so forth. Finally at about 5:45 the doors opened. Again, there was no real organization. Everyone just crammed toward the door, and they let in a few at a time to pick their passports up. I did get mine back with no real problems though. I am now the proud owner of a visa for Mauritania, good for one month. So I am now hoping I am finally good to go south.
I wandered back to the bus station and picked up a bus heading south to Agadir.
-Dravis
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Tiznit to Rabat - Day 159
Date: January 24th, 2010
Distance: 16 hours by bus
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: We're Not Gonna Take It - Twisted Sister
It has been one hell of a day. Woke up, had my simple breakfast of O.J. and bread. Then went out to get a bus. The morning bus to Casa had already left, so I had to wait until 5:00 PM to catch the next one. That was okay as it did give me the time I need to get some passport photos. (One of the requirements for a Mauritanian visa.)
At 5:00 I got on my bus and spent the next 16 or so hours trying to sleep, or at least keep my mind occupied. After the sunset there wasn't much to see. It did get far to interesting later on. I was trying to sleep when the baggage man for the bus came over to sit by me. Not really what I wanted, but I wasn't going to be rude. He started talking, most of which I didn't understand. Then he started pointing things out in the dark. That is when he tried to put his hand on my crotch. While leaning over and pointing out the window with one hand, he moved the other one onto my lap. At first I was just confused, thinking maybe it was an accident or a cultural difference I didn't realize. (Men walk hand in hand down the street all the time.) But then I realized this was stupid. First, this isn't a "whoops" area. I am never going to accidentally drop my hand in another guy's lap. Second, it made me very uncomfortable, at that point culture be damned. When someone makes you uncomforatble, it is your right and duty to be upset and play the ugly American. So I stood up and shooed the guy away. I suppose I should have really yelled at him, but I really didn't know how to stay "don't touch my penis" in French or Arabic. (It is surprising that this is left out of most phrase books...) No real harm done though, it just made the trip a little more disturbing. For all of you out there in internet land, remember, if someone crosses that line, do something about it.
After that I was quite happy to switch buses in Casa, even though it was about 6:00AM and I hadn't slept much. The bus from Casa to Rabat was much quieter and I arrived just as the sun was coming up.
-Dravis
Distance: 16 hours by bus
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: We're Not Gonna Take It - Twisted Sister
It has been one hell of a day. Woke up, had my simple breakfast of O.J. and bread. Then went out to get a bus. The morning bus to Casa had already left, so I had to wait until 5:00 PM to catch the next one. That was okay as it did give me the time I need to get some passport photos. (One of the requirements for a Mauritanian visa.)
At 5:00 I got on my bus and spent the next 16 or so hours trying to sleep, or at least keep my mind occupied. After the sunset there wasn't much to see. It did get far to interesting later on. I was trying to sleep when the baggage man for the bus came over to sit by me. Not really what I wanted, but I wasn't going to be rude. He started talking, most of which I didn't understand. Then he started pointing things out in the dark. That is when he tried to put his hand on my crotch. While leaning over and pointing out the window with one hand, he moved the other one onto my lap. At first I was just confused, thinking maybe it was an accident or a cultural difference I didn't realize. (Men walk hand in hand down the street all the time.) But then I realized this was stupid. First, this isn't a "whoops" area. I am never going to accidentally drop my hand in another guy's lap. Second, it made me very uncomfortable, at that point culture be damned. When someone makes you uncomforatble, it is your right and duty to be upset and play the ugly American. So I stood up and shooed the guy away. I suppose I should have really yelled at him, but I really didn't know how to stay "don't touch my penis" in French or Arabic. (It is surprising that this is left out of most phrase books...) No real harm done though, it just made the trip a little more disturbing. For all of you out there in internet land, remember, if someone crosses that line, do something about it.
After that I was quite happy to switch buses in Casa, even though it was about 6:00AM and I hadn't slept much. The bus from Casa to Rabat was much quieter and I arrived just as the sun was coming up.
-Dravis
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Agadir to Tiznit - Day 158
Date: January 23rd, 2010
Distance: 87km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Bruised - The Bens
Well, I got back on the bike today. My knee is feeling great again. It was just barely starting to get a bit sore when I rolled into Tiznit. Not much else to say. The terrain was a bit boring. It actually reminded me of the farm country of the midwest. Except there were minarets towering over the little mud-brick towns instead of church steeples situated among white clapboard homes.
When I stopped for lunch, a Finnish man stopped to talk with me. I guess he has been travelling around Europe by car. He explained how this was a €300 car. I bet, driving it all the way from Finland, he spent more on gas than on the car to begin with. He also said he had done a lot of hitchhiking in his younger days. But now (I think he was in his early sixities) it was easier to go by car. It is always fun to meet a fellow traveller. They can give you a lot of ideas on what to do and how to travel. Plus, I keep finding people who tell me about ways that it is cheaper than you think. That is, if you think about it a little.
-Dravis
Distance: 87km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Bruised - The Bens
Well, I got back on the bike today. My knee is feeling great again. It was just barely starting to get a bit sore when I rolled into Tiznit. Not much else to say. The terrain was a bit boring. It actually reminded me of the farm country of the midwest. Except there were minarets towering over the little mud-brick towns instead of church steeples situated among white clapboard homes.
When I stopped for lunch, a Finnish man stopped to talk with me. I guess he has been travelling around Europe by car. He explained how this was a €300 car. I bet, driving it all the way from Finland, he spent more on gas than on the car to begin with. He also said he had done a lot of hitchhiking in his younger days. But now (I think he was in his early sixities) it was easier to go by car. It is always fun to meet a fellow traveller. They can give you a lot of ideas on what to do and how to travel. Plus, I keep finding people who tell me about ways that it is cheaper than you think. That is, if you think about it a little.
-Dravis
Agadir - Day 157
Date: January 22nd, 2020
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Wild Mountain Honey - The Tragically Hip
Well, I did spend two days in Agadir. Glad I did, but I am a little disappointed today. I spent a bunch of time at the cyber looking up visa requirements for Mauritania. It turns out they have been changing their rules a bunch recently. I guess you used to be able to walk up and get a visa no problem. But this summer you could only get a 3 day visa at the border. No problem for me, as that is all the time I was planning on spending there anyway. In the middle of December they changed the rules again. Now all visa had to be applied for in advance. So I have to go back to Rabat and get a visa at the consulate there. Urgh.
Also, none of this actually came from the Mauritanian authorities. There is no website that I could find that had the official rules on this. It was all people who have tried and were denied. They started posting online, and that is how I found out. I guess they even created a little camp site just outside of the boarder to wait for everything get sorted out. Sending runners back to Rabat to get visas. If there is one good thing though, that does mean that people are still crossing the border.
But the consulate is closed today (it being a Friday), and I don't expect it to reopen until Monday. So I think I will head to Tizinit tomorrow. Stash my stuff there and make a quick trip up on Sunday. Then come back Monday or Tuesday hopefully. What a pain. And I thought I was getting used to travel in Africa.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Wild Mountain Honey - The Tragically Hip
Well, I did spend two days in Agadir. Glad I did, but I am a little disappointed today. I spent a bunch of time at the cyber looking up visa requirements for Mauritania. It turns out they have been changing their rules a bunch recently. I guess you used to be able to walk up and get a visa no problem. But this summer you could only get a 3 day visa at the border. No problem for me, as that is all the time I was planning on spending there anyway. In the middle of December they changed the rules again. Now all visa had to be applied for in advance. So I have to go back to Rabat and get a visa at the consulate there. Urgh.
Also, none of this actually came from the Mauritanian authorities. There is no website that I could find that had the official rules on this. It was all people who have tried and were denied. They started posting online, and that is how I found out. I guess they even created a little camp site just outside of the boarder to wait for everything get sorted out. Sending runners back to Rabat to get visas. If there is one good thing though, that does mean that people are still crossing the border.
But the consulate is closed today (it being a Friday), and I don't expect it to reopen until Monday. So I think I will head to Tizinit tomorrow. Stash my stuff there and make a quick trip up on Sunday. Then come back Monday or Tuesday hopefully. What a pain. And I thought I was getting used to travel in Africa.
-Dravis
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Imi-N-Tanoute to Agadir - Day 155
Date: January 20th, 2010
Distance: 64km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Achilles Last Stand - Led Zeppelin
Sadly today my knee wasn't actually feeling much better. So I did the best I could, but it was a slow slog through most of the day.
At the top of one hill my back tire blew out. The sidewall of the tire was gone. Really, most tires just aren't built to take the extra weight on a touring bike. Fortunately I have three spare tires. I was hoping to go a bit further before having to use them, but that is life. Still it was another delay that I didn't need.
Once that was fixed, my knee still wasn't feeling better. It finally gave out just before this little crossroads. I didn't want to push it anymore so stopped in at the little shop there and had a Coke while I was thinking about my next plan. I knew I could have camped somewhere nearby, but that would only mean that I would have to be back on the bike tomorrow and I really wanted my knee to rest. So I took the bus into Agadir.
Yep, just stand on the side of the road and hold out your thumb like the good book taught us. Nothing too it. I got on the bus stowed my bike and was off. Simple. Yeah, I know it is cheating, but you have to listen to what your body is telling you.
It was too bad though. The bus was going through some of the most beautiful country I have seen so far in Morocco. It was pretty hilly, so I am glad didn't ride through it. But if my knee had been feeling good, oh boy, that would have been awesome. I hope there are more places like it south of here.
Once the bus stopped, I got off and found a place to stay. I think I will have to burn a couple days here to rest. Oh well.
-Dravis
Distance: 64km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Achilles Last Stand - Led Zeppelin
Sadly today my knee wasn't actually feeling much better. So I did the best I could, but it was a slow slog through most of the day.
At the top of one hill my back tire blew out. The sidewall of the tire was gone. Really, most tires just aren't built to take the extra weight on a touring bike. Fortunately I have three spare tires. I was hoping to go a bit further before having to use them, but that is life. Still it was another delay that I didn't need.
Once that was fixed, my knee still wasn't feeling better. It finally gave out just before this little crossroads. I didn't want to push it anymore so stopped in at the little shop there and had a Coke while I was thinking about my next plan. I knew I could have camped somewhere nearby, but that would only mean that I would have to be back on the bike tomorrow and I really wanted my knee to rest. So I took the bus into Agadir.
Yep, just stand on the side of the road and hold out your thumb like the good book taught us. Nothing too it. I got on the bus stowed my bike and was off. Simple. Yeah, I know it is cheating, but you have to listen to what your body is telling you.
It was too bad though. The bus was going through some of the most beautiful country I have seen so far in Morocco. It was pretty hilly, so I am glad didn't ride through it. But if my knee had been feeling good, oh boy, that would have been awesome. I hope there are more places like it south of here.
Once the bus stopped, I got off and found a place to stay. I think I will have to burn a couple days here to rest. Oh well.
-Dravis
Marrakech to Imi-N-Tanoute - Day 154
Date: January 19th, 2010
Distance: 124km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Cowboy Song - Thin Lizzy
Another day in the saddle. Feels good to be out on the road. Actually, it felt so good I stayed out there longer than I expected. I was only going to go to Chichaoua, but I was making such good time I decided to keep going. At this rate I can probably make it to Agadir tomorrow.
The land seemed to dry out as I was pedaling by. I did have some clouds in the afternoon to help keep it from being too hot. It was still warm. Once I made the turn south to Agadir at Chichaoua the sun was right in my face as well. I did purchase a scarf back in Marrakech. I am not much of a scarf guy (I am not usually cold) but I thought it might help through the desert. So I was trying that out today. I used it mostly to cover my face and ears so I wouldn't get a sunburn. I am still getting used to it, but it should be quite helpful in the days to come.
Actually, it does feel like being a cowboy. It is a simple, migratory lifestyle. Long days in the saddle, racing the sun. Camping under the stars. Riding through open country. Suffering the weather, be it blazing hot sun or freezing rain. Cycle touring is the last bastion for people with that ancient wanderlust. Those who want to ride off into the sunset.
Yep, that is just what I did, riding into the dark. I might have come a bit too far today though. The last 10km was pretty brutal. My left knee started acting up. So I had to coast most of the way in. I hope it is feeling better tomorrow.
-Dravis
Distance: 124km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Cowboy Song - Thin Lizzy
Another day in the saddle. Feels good to be out on the road. Actually, it felt so good I stayed out there longer than I expected. I was only going to go to Chichaoua, but I was making such good time I decided to keep going. At this rate I can probably make it to Agadir tomorrow.
The land seemed to dry out as I was pedaling by. I did have some clouds in the afternoon to help keep it from being too hot. It was still warm. Once I made the turn south to Agadir at Chichaoua the sun was right in my face as well. I did purchase a scarf back in Marrakech. I am not much of a scarf guy (I am not usually cold) but I thought it might help through the desert. So I was trying that out today. I used it mostly to cover my face and ears so I wouldn't get a sunburn. I am still getting used to it, but it should be quite helpful in the days to come.
Actually, it does feel like being a cowboy. It is a simple, migratory lifestyle. Long days in the saddle, racing the sun. Camping under the stars. Riding through open country. Suffering the weather, be it blazing hot sun or freezing rain. Cycle touring is the last bastion for people with that ancient wanderlust. Those who want to ride off into the sunset.
Yep, that is just what I did, riding into the dark. I might have come a bit too far today though. The last 10km was pretty brutal. My left knee started acting up. So I had to coast most of the way in. I hope it is feeling better tomorrow.
-Dravis
Monday, January 18, 2010
Marrakech to Casablanca to Marrakech - Day 153
Date: January 18th, 2009
Distance: Travel by train to Casablanca and back
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Freebird - Lynyrd Skynyrd
Well I did make it out to Casa today. I had to wait two days because the place wasn't open on the weekends.
I did pick the wrong cabbie when I got there. I just needed to get dropped off at the place that gives out vaccinations, but he wanted to be my tour guide. I couldn't get him to leave me alone. So he followed me to the doctor. Then took me back to the train station. Then wanted extra money for being the "guide" that I didn't need. Argh, so he took me for a ride (literally and figuratively) on that one. Oh well.
I did get my Yellow Fever shot and the vaccination card. So I should be ready to travel anywhere I want now. Yay! I am getting excited. When I got back to Marrakech, I realized how frustrated I am at being here. The extra two days were a bit much. The only time I have a moment's peace is when I am in my hotel room. If you are out on the street people don't stop pestering you. "My friend!" Look, we aren't friends, I don't want to smoke hash, I am not giving you a "present", I am not buying you a beer. Go away. That is exactly what I am going to do tomorrow.
-Dravis
Distance: Travel by train to Casablanca and back
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Freebird - Lynyrd Skynyrd
Well I did make it out to Casa today. I had to wait two days because the place wasn't open on the weekends.
I did pick the wrong cabbie when I got there. I just needed to get dropped off at the place that gives out vaccinations, but he wanted to be my tour guide. I couldn't get him to leave me alone. So he followed me to the doctor. Then took me back to the train station. Then wanted extra money for being the "guide" that I didn't need. Argh, so he took me for a ride (literally and figuratively) on that one. Oh well.
I did get my Yellow Fever shot and the vaccination card. So I should be ready to travel anywhere I want now. Yay! I am getting excited. When I got back to Marrakech, I realized how frustrated I am at being here. The extra two days were a bit much. The only time I have a moment's peace is when I am in my hotel room. If you are out on the street people don't stop pestering you. "My friend!" Look, we aren't friends, I don't want to smoke hash, I am not giving you a "present", I am not buying you a beer. Go away. That is exactly what I am going to do tomorrow.
-Dravis
Marrakech - Day 150
Date: January 15th, 2010
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Save it for Later - The English Beat
So I found the right place today I was supposed to get my Yellow Fever shot, but they didn't have any. It turns out I have to go back to Casa to get that. Argh. Again, I am kicking myself for not doing this back home.
I was getting bummed out about it when my new friend Aymen (who I met the day
before) called. He invited me out to grab some coffee. We ended up on a balcony overlooking Jemaa El Fna. I know, you pay a bit more for the view, but it was actually kind of nice to look down on everything going on.
Plus I was having a good time talking to Aymen. We joked about a lot of stuff that happens when touring. Both the good and the bad. Things like the English National Cycle Network. Then the conversation wandered around a bit as we did, leaving the cafe to meander through the souk. We ended up talking about all sorts of things, science and technology, drug control policy. By the time we hit religion we were eating dinner at a cafe. I should probably tell you a little more about Aymen. He is a research professor up in Edinburgh (I think this is his semester break). He lives there with his wife and son, but they were off visiting her parents. His parents are from the border between Egypt and Sudan, but he was born in London and split his childhood between the two places. Growing up Muslim, you might think that his views on the role of religion would be different. But, as an enlightened 21st century guy, his point of view is quite similar to what I have come to believe. That faith is personal, and it wrong to chastise someone else for their perceived failings.
We did have one other amusing event of the evening. I had seen what was billed as Marrakech's first English pub, so Aymen and I decided to see what it was like. To get in you had to push past a white curtain. Inside was a hip looking place (not at all like an actual English pub). It also smelled like that fake smoke and perfume. Two waitresses came up and asked us if we wanted to sit. Aymen turns to me and says "Do you think this place is a bit dodgy?" I thought it would be overpriced, but not dangerous. Aymen explained his thinking, and suddenly it made more sense. Curtains. Fake smoke and perfume. Pushy waitresses. He was thinking we had mistakenly walked into a brothel. Fortunately, his fears were unfounded. (Sadly, the bill proved, my fears were not.) Oh, and they had no English beer. I am still not sure what they thought made it an English pub though...
After that Aymen had to go back to his hotel and get some sleep for his flight the next day. But he did let me know that if I was ever in Edinburgh that I could come and stay with him and his family. Really, I can't say enough about what an amazing guy he is. And to think, that I just met him because he was touring as well. Us cycle tourers got to stick together.
Oh yeah, then I got a call from Miguel, who is a Spanish PhD student who lives in my cousin's little town. He was hanging out at what I think is the only other bar in town with two Aussi guys and a girl from Colorado. So I headed over there. The four of us had a good time talking about stuff. I explained to them the trip I was on while drinking the most overpriced Coke on the planet. By the time we finished at the bar it was getting pretty late. So we decided to walk Brittany home. She was staying with friends in a sketchy neighborhood. We did get lost, and stopped once for food at McDonald's, but we got there in the end. Miguel and I wandered back to the main square together. He explained to me about his project of taking pictures of the Barbary Leopard. Cool stuff. All in all, a good evening.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Save it for Later - The English Beat
So I found the right place today I was supposed to get my Yellow Fever shot, but they didn't have any. It turns out I have to go back to Casa to get that. Argh. Again, I am kicking myself for not doing this back home.
I was getting bummed out about it when my new friend Aymen (who I met the day
before) called. He invited me out to grab some coffee. We ended up on a balcony overlooking Jemaa El Fna. I know, you pay a bit more for the view, but it was actually kind of nice to look down on everything going on.Plus I was having a good time talking to Aymen. We joked about a lot of stuff that happens when touring. Both the good and the bad. Things like the English National Cycle Network. Then the conversation wandered around a bit as we did, leaving the cafe to meander through the souk. We ended up talking about all sorts of things, science and technology, drug control policy. By the time we hit religion we were eating dinner at a cafe. I should probably tell you a little more about Aymen. He is a research professor up in Edinburgh (I think this is his semester break). He lives there with his wife and son, but they were off visiting her parents. His parents are from the border between Egypt and Sudan, but he was born in London and split his childhood between the two places. Growing up Muslim, you might think that his views on the role of religion would be different. But, as an enlightened 21st century guy, his point of view is quite similar to what I have come to believe. That faith is personal, and it wrong to chastise someone else for their perceived failings.
We did have one other amusing event of the evening. I had seen what was billed as Marrakech's first English pub, so Aymen and I decided to see what it was like. To get in you had to push past a white curtain. Inside was a hip looking place (not at all like an actual English pub). It also smelled like that fake smoke and perfume. Two waitresses came up and asked us if we wanted to sit. Aymen turns to me and says "Do you think this place is a bit dodgy?" I thought it would be overpriced, but not dangerous. Aymen explained his thinking, and suddenly it made more sense. Curtains. Fake smoke and perfume. Pushy waitresses. He was thinking we had mistakenly walked into a brothel. Fortunately, his fears were unfounded. (Sadly, the bill proved, my fears were not.) Oh, and they had no English beer. I am still not sure what they thought made it an English pub though...
After that Aymen had to go back to his hotel and get some sleep for his flight the next day. But he did let me know that if I was ever in Edinburgh that I could come and stay with him and his family. Really, I can't say enough about what an amazing guy he is. And to think, that I just met him because he was touring as well. Us cycle tourers got to stick together.
Oh yeah, then I got a call from Miguel, who is a Spanish PhD student who lives in my cousin's little town. He was hanging out at what I think is the only other bar in town with two Aussi guys and a girl from Colorado. So I headed over there. The four of us had a good time talking about stuff. I explained to them the trip I was on while drinking the most overpriced Coke on the planet. By the time we finished at the bar it was getting pretty late. So we decided to walk Brittany home. She was staying with friends in a sketchy neighborhood. We did get lost, and stopped once for food at McDonald's, but we got there in the end. Miguel and I wandered back to the main square together. He explained to me about his project of taking pictures of the Barbary Leopard. Cool stuff. All in all, a good evening.
-Dravis
Marrakech - Day 149
Date: January 14th, 2010
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Gray Ghost - Mike Doughty
I think Marrakech is the best of the big cities that I have been to in Morocco. Rabat was nice, but boring. Tangier and Casa were both big, dirty, and I just felt out of place there. Marrakech seems fun and exciting. It is more touristy though. So you get hassled a lot more to look/buy/eat/smoke. (I ignore anyone who whistles at me or starts yelling "hey, hey, hey" over and over.) There are a lot of tourists here as well. I haven't been gone that long, but for some reason it feels weird to see white people. At least ones I don't know.
Here are some suggestions for those who want to visit. Start by finding the big plaza Jemaa El Fna. This took me
a bit to find, but once you get there it is huge and full of people, you will know it. Let this be your starting place.
In the square are tons of places to eat and drink. First, find yourself a juice place. You can get fresh squeezed orange juice for 3 Dirham. All the places seem the same and charge the same. I chose a place where the guy was welcoming, but not pushy, and he seemed to be working hard. Use any criteria you want, like ear size or biggest mustache, I am not sure that it really matters. Once you have selected a juice guy, make that the first thing you do in the morning. You will get something to drink, important in the dry and thirsty climate, plus vitamin C, and warm greeting and a smile to start you day. What could be better.
Next you can get almost anything you need, food wise, in the square, and probably a few things you don't need. There are stalls for dates and nuts. Stalls for fried fish. Stalls for tagine. There are even stalls that just sell snails. Each of them seem to be grouped together with like stalls. Again use whatever criteria you want to select one. Some will be really pushy about it, so don't feel like you can't just walk away.
(Oh, and after writing this, I found there were carts that sell spice balls with a bit of spice cake. Both are like eating whole wheat cinnamon flavored vomit. I took a bite of each, and that was it. These carts also have a hot cinnamon drink from copper kettles. That is at least drinkable.)
Around the plaza is the souk, or market. Enjoy walking through and do your best to avoid being pestered. I haven't figured out a good way yet myself. I tried being polite and responding to each person who says hello, but they took that as interest. I am sorry but I really don't want, nor do I have space for, a giant rug, or a metal chandelier. Then I tried ignorning everyone, but that just seemed to annoy the hawkers. The best thing I can think of is to walk quickly, with determination. This way, most people think you are just trying to get somewhere else.
For me, I actually spent the day walking around the new city, outside the old walls. I still need to get my vaccination for Yellow Fever. I found a place I thought I could get one, but they just gave me a referral and sent me on my way. I couldn't not for the life of me find where I was supposed to go. The directions weren't exactly amazing. They gave me area of the city to look in, but not the name of the place. Argh. I will get it right, tomorrow.
I did meet another guy just finishing his cycle tour, named Aymen. He started in the north of Spain, and has made it all the way down here. He just got into the city with his bike, which is how I saw him. We had a good chat on the street and swapped storied and laughed. It is great to see another touring cyclist. It seems that our world is so small it is great to find someone else who knows what it is like.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Gray Ghost - Mike Doughty
I think Marrakech is the best of the big cities that I have been to in Morocco. Rabat was nice, but boring. Tangier and Casa were both big, dirty, and I just felt out of place there. Marrakech seems fun and exciting. It is more touristy though. So you get hassled a lot more to look/buy/eat/smoke. (I ignore anyone who whistles at me or starts yelling "hey, hey, hey" over and over.) There are a lot of tourists here as well. I haven't been gone that long, but for some reason it feels weird to see white people. At least ones I don't know.
Here are some suggestions for those who want to visit. Start by finding the big plaza Jemaa El Fna. This took me
a bit to find, but once you get there it is huge and full of people, you will know it. Let this be your starting place.In the square are tons of places to eat and drink. First, find yourself a juice place. You can get fresh squeezed orange juice for 3 Dirham. All the places seem the same and charge the same. I chose a place where the guy was welcoming, but not pushy, and he seemed to be working hard. Use any criteria you want, like ear size or biggest mustache, I am not sure that it really matters. Once you have selected a juice guy, make that the first thing you do in the morning. You will get something to drink, important in the dry and thirsty climate, plus vitamin C, and warm greeting and a smile to start you day. What could be better.
Next you can get almost anything you need, food wise, in the square, and probably a few things you don't need. There are stalls for dates and nuts. Stalls for fried fish. Stalls for tagine. There are even stalls that just sell snails. Each of them seem to be grouped together with like stalls. Again use whatever criteria you want to select one. Some will be really pushy about it, so don't feel like you can't just walk away.
(Oh, and after writing this, I found there were carts that sell spice balls with a bit of spice cake. Both are like eating whole wheat cinnamon flavored vomit. I took a bite of each, and that was it. These carts also have a hot cinnamon drink from copper kettles. That is at least drinkable.)
Around the plaza is the souk, or market. Enjoy walking through and do your best to avoid being pestered. I haven't figured out a good way yet myself. I tried being polite and responding to each person who says hello, but they took that as interest. I am sorry but I really don't want, nor do I have space for, a giant rug, or a metal chandelier. Then I tried ignorning everyone, but that just seemed to annoy the hawkers. The best thing I can think of is to walk quickly, with determination. This way, most people think you are just trying to get somewhere else.
For me, I actually spent the day walking around the new city, outside the old walls. I still need to get my vaccination for Yellow Fever. I found a place I thought I could get one, but they just gave me a referral and sent me on my way. I couldn't not for the life of me find where I was supposed to go. The directions weren't exactly amazing. They gave me area of the city to look in, but not the name of the place. Argh. I will get it right, tomorrow.
I did meet another guy just finishing his cycle tour, named Aymen. He started in the north of Spain, and has made it all the way down here. He just got into the city with his bike, which is how I saw him. We had a good chat on the street and swapped storied and laughed. It is great to see another touring cyclist. It seems that our world is so small it is great to find someone else who knows what it is like.
-Dravis
Kelaa des Sraghna to Marrakech - Day 148
Date: January 13th, 2010
Distance: 90km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Different Names for the Same Thing - Death Cab for Cutie
Not a long day, but I just couldn't wait to get to my Marrakech. My first stop, and a chance to take a bit of a rest. Plus get some stuff done. The ride itself was pretty simple. A couple of hills coming out of Kelaa des Sraghna, but nothing major. Just getting into Marrakech the terrain changed from fields to desert.
The city itself was pretty nice. I had a little bit of a time finding where I wanted to go, but then I got lost and found what I wanted to. I seem to have a habit of doing that. I found a place to stay, some food, and went to bed early.
-Dravis
Distance: 90km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Different Names for the Same Thing - Death Cab for Cutie
Not a long day, but I just couldn't wait to get to my Marrakech. My first stop, and a chance to take a bit of a rest. Plus get some stuff done. The ride itself was pretty simple. A couple of hills coming out of Kelaa des Sraghna, but nothing major. Just getting into Marrakech the terrain changed from fields to desert.
The city itself was pretty nice. I had a little bit of a time finding where I wanted to go, but then I got lost and found what I wanted to. I seem to have a habit of doing that. I found a place to stay, some food, and went to bed early.
-Dravis
Beni Mellal to Kelaa des Sraghna - Day 147
Date: January 12th, 2010
Distance: 116km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Walk On - U2
Left Beni Mellal a bit later than I wanted to. Actually, I slept in more than I wanted. Oh well. I also had one other problem. After three weeks off the bike, my poor butt was not used to such a long day in the saddle. So it was a bit sore getting on again today.
About halfway I started hitting a lame headwind. Then it started to get hilly, which for some reason didn't abate the wind any. So it was pretty lame. But I did get to Kelaa des Sraghna before sunset. Yeah. Found a place to stay.
I should let you in on a little secret. While traveling in Europe, I heard lots of people mention that you could live like a king for almost nothing in certain countries, mostly closer to the equator than I live. In Asia the one quoted is Thailand. In the Americas it is something like Costa Rica or Guatemala. I also heard the same thing about Morocco. So, if you hear this from someone, just look them in the eye and scream "YOU ARE A DAMN DIRTY LIAR!" Because, this isn't really like living as a king. Kings get a private bathroom, and one where they don't have to bring their own toilet paper. Now, if you don't mind taking a step down in the world, you can get a very cheap place to stay. What you get is a simple room with a sink too small to do just about anything. So (possibly because of the tiny sink) these rooms tend to have a problem with water on the floor. They might not have all their windows or even sheets on the bed, like the place today. But you do get a decent and safe place to stay for the evening. Since, I don't mind saving the money and would otherwise be sleeping outside, it works for me.
-Dravis
Distance: 116km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Walk On - U2
Left Beni Mellal a bit later than I wanted to. Actually, I slept in more than I wanted. Oh well. I also had one other problem. After three weeks off the bike, my poor butt was not used to such a long day in the saddle. So it was a bit sore getting on again today.
About halfway I started hitting a lame headwind. Then it started to get hilly, which for some reason didn't abate the wind any. So it was pretty lame. But I did get to Kelaa des Sraghna before sunset. Yeah. Found a place to stay.
I should let you in on a little secret. While traveling in Europe, I heard lots of people mention that you could live like a king for almost nothing in certain countries, mostly closer to the equator than I live. In Asia the one quoted is Thailand. In the Americas it is something like Costa Rica or Guatemala. I also heard the same thing about Morocco. So, if you hear this from someone, just look them in the eye and scream "YOU ARE A DAMN DIRTY LIAR!" Because, this isn't really like living as a king. Kings get a private bathroom, and one where they don't have to bring their own toilet paper. Now, if you don't mind taking a step down in the world, you can get a very cheap place to stay. What you get is a simple room with a sink too small to do just about anything. So (possibly because of the tiny sink) these rooms tend to have a problem with water on the floor. They might not have all their windows or even sheets on the bed, like the place today. But you do get a decent and safe place to stay for the evening. Since, I don't mind saving the money and would otherwise be sleeping outside, it works for me.
-Dravis
Khenifra to Beni Mellal - Day 146
Date: January 11th, 2010
Distance: 132km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Setting Forth - Eddie Vedder
Well, I got up and took too much time putting the last touches on my bike. I did say farewell to my cousin. He is heading back to his site. I have had such a great time hanging out with him. Allen, have a great time and enjoy the rest of your time here. I also said goodbye to my hosts, Andrew and Michael, thanks guys. Your hospitality is much appreciated and hanging out has been a blast. Best of luck!
For me, it was time once again to get on the road and head south. Actually I headed mostly west, and only a little bit south. It rained in the morning. Not hard, but enough to get everything all muddy. The first part of the trip was up and down a lot. The tune up on the bike seems to be doing pretty well though. So I had a good time.
By the end of the day the terrain had really flattened out. I really began to cruise after that. It did get dark on me before I could get into the city though. Damn. But there was a wide shoulder to ride on, so no real problem there.
Once in town, it took me a bit of time to find the right hotel. The first two I tried were very nice, but way more than I wanted to spend. I did eventually find one for only 50D a night, with another 10D for a hot shower. That is about $9 total. Sold. I went to bed clean and happy.
-Dravis
Distance: 132km
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Setting Forth - Eddie Vedder
Well, I got up and took too much time putting the last touches on my bike. I did say farewell to my cousin. He is heading back to his site. I have had such a great time hanging out with him. Allen, have a great time and enjoy the rest of your time here. I also said goodbye to my hosts, Andrew and Michael, thanks guys. Your hospitality is much appreciated and hanging out has been a blast. Best of luck!
For me, it was time once again to get on the road and head south. Actually I headed mostly west, and only a little bit south. It rained in the morning. Not hard, but enough to get everything all muddy. The first part of the trip was up and down a lot. The tune up on the bike seems to be doing pretty well though. So I had a good time.
By the end of the day the terrain had really flattened out. I really began to cruise after that. It did get dark on me before I could get into the city though. Damn. But there was a wide shoulder to ride on, so no real problem there.
Once in town, it took me a bit of time to find the right hotel. The first two I tried were very nice, but way more than I wanted to spend. I did eventually find one for only 50D a night, with another 10D for a hot shower. That is about $9 total. Sold. I went to bed clean and happy.
-Dravis
Khenifra - Day 145
Date: January 10th, 2010
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Radiation Vibe - Fountains of Wayne
I skipped a couple of days because, well they were boring. I did spend the last day in Khenifra getting my bike all tuned up. I also bought parts and made a place to hold another water bottle. I don't think I am going to have enough water for the Sahara. Also, I needed to put a little more weight on my front right to even things out. It is amazing what you can do with PVC pipe, old inner tubes and some zip ties. MacGyver moment.
Also met with some female PCVs, as three girls showed up to hang out with us for the night. They were Yorda, Becky and Tori. Andrew had purchased a mini projector for the apartment. So we could watch some movies projected on the way. Like a mini movie theater. It was also funny to hear the girls laugh at different parts of the movies from the guys. Good times were had by all.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Radiation Vibe - Fountains of Wayne
I skipped a couple of days because, well they were boring. I did spend the last day in Khenifra getting my bike all tuned up. I also bought parts and made a place to hold another water bottle. I don't think I am going to have enough water for the Sahara. Also, I needed to put a little more weight on my front right to even things out. It is amazing what you can do with PVC pipe, old inner tubes and some zip ties. MacGyver moment.
Also met with some female PCVs, as three girls showed up to hang out with us for the night. They were Yorda, Becky and Tori. Andrew had purchased a mini projector for the apartment. So we could watch some movies projected on the way. Like a mini movie theater. It was also funny to hear the girls laugh at different parts of the movies from the guys. Good times were had by all.
-Dravis
Midelt to Khenifra - Day 142
Date: January 7th, 2009
Distance: Bus to Khenifra
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Lazybones - Soul Coughing
Took the bus in the morning to Khenifra. Another big thanks to Jeff for letting me stay with him. Nothing really exciting happened on the trip though.
Once in Khenifra, I did meet Michael, the other PCV who is living there. He is a really funny guy and to hang out with. But we didn't actually do anything that exciting, so I won't bore you with it.
Instead I will tell you a little more about Morocco. It took me a while to get it, but there is hardly any branding here. Sure there are signs for Coke everywhere. I also can't tell you the number of kids I have seen wearing knock off Dolche & Gabana clothing. That all seems to be external influences. Most stores here don't have a name. In Aghbala, the cafes are known by the people who run them. Khenifra is a bit bigger, but still, if there is a sign it will probably only list the type of establishment. If it does list a name, it is done in much smaller print and almost apologetically.
To get around the confusion, the guys in Khenifra have been coming up with their own names for places. There is the Target. The Best Buy. The Dollar Store. The Costco. There are also a couple of cafes they have named. Like the Skyline, because of its rooftop patio. Or what everyone refers to as "Downstairs", which is the cafe across the street from their apartment.
So, while I never liked the oppressive amounts of branding in the US, it does seem weird to have a store entirely without a name. Maybe there is a happy medium in there somewhere.
-Dravis
Distance: Bus to Khenifra
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Lazybones - Soul Coughing
Took the bus in the morning to Khenifra. Another big thanks to Jeff for letting me stay with him. Nothing really exciting happened on the trip though.
Once in Khenifra, I did meet Michael, the other PCV who is living there. He is a really funny guy and to hang out with. But we didn't actually do anything that exciting, so I won't bore you with it.
Instead I will tell you a little more about Morocco. It took me a while to get it, but there is hardly any branding here. Sure there are signs for Coke everywhere. I also can't tell you the number of kids I have seen wearing knock off Dolche & Gabana clothing. That all seems to be external influences. Most stores here don't have a name. In Aghbala, the cafes are known by the people who run them. Khenifra is a bit bigger, but still, if there is a sign it will probably only list the type of establishment. If it does list a name, it is done in much smaller print and almost apologetically.
To get around the confusion, the guys in Khenifra have been coming up with their own names for places. There is the Target. The Best Buy. The Dollar Store. The Costco. There are also a couple of cafes they have named. Like the Skyline, because of its rooftop patio. Or what everyone refers to as "Downstairs", which is the cafe across the street from their apartment.
So, while I never liked the oppressive amounts of branding in the US, it does seem weird to have a store entirely without a name. Maybe there is a happy medium in there somewhere.
-Dravis
Outerbat to Midelt - Day 141
Date: January 6th, 2010
Distance: Travel by tranzi and bus
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Time - Pink Floyd
Woke up the next morning and Jack saw me to the tranzi. Jack, if you are reading this, thanks for letting me crash!
If you recall tranzis are a little bigger than vans, but not as big as buses. Running a tranzi is a two man operation. There is the driver, who is only concerned with not crashing into something. There is also a guy who is responsible for getting luggage on top, getting everyone inside and seated, and collecting the fares. So it is like a little business on wheels. You could also think of them as rolling vomit factories. Yep, I don't think I have been on one yet where someone hasn't puked. So that is also one of the second man's jobs. He hands out black plastic bags to those in needs. Then when they are finished, they pass the bags back to him, and he throws them out the back. On this particular trip, everyone around me had to use the bags. Not me though, I am proud of my intestinal fortitude.
The tranzi took me as far as Rich. I stopped for lunch and then found a bus to Midelt. Less puking, which was nice, but odd. The bus is taller and seems to sway more... anyway.
The terrain down to Midelt was pretty cool. The rock was layed down flat over thousands of years and then twisted and tilted. Some of the hill looked like the very rock was plowed into neat angled rows across hills and valleys. There was even a place where layers of rock were turned perpendicular to the earth. They looked like the ragged edges of a massive and forgotten book. I couldn't help but be a little inspired by it.
In Midelt I met up with another PCV, Jeff. He has only been in Morocco a couple of months, but he was in Madagascar before that. The peace corps had to get everyone out of there a year ago because of unrest there. I guess they are back now, but Jeff wanted to try something new. Jeff had to take off in the evening because he was teaching English to kids. He left me a spare key so that I could see the town. I didn't see much of it as I just took a nap. When Jeff got home we got some food and he made some tasty tagine. Jeff and I stayed up late talking and sharing movies.
-Dravis
Distance: Travel by tranzi and bus
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Time - Pink Floyd
Woke up the next morning and Jack saw me to the tranzi. Jack, if you are reading this, thanks for letting me crash!
If you recall tranzis are a little bigger than vans, but not as big as buses. Running a tranzi is a two man operation. There is the driver, who is only concerned with not crashing into something. There is also a guy who is responsible for getting luggage on top, getting everyone inside and seated, and collecting the fares. So it is like a little business on wheels. You could also think of them as rolling vomit factories. Yep, I don't think I have been on one yet where someone hasn't puked. So that is also one of the second man's jobs. He hands out black plastic bags to those in needs. Then when they are finished, they pass the bags back to him, and he throws them out the back. On this particular trip, everyone around me had to use the bags. Not me though, I am proud of my intestinal fortitude.
The tranzi took me as far as Rich. I stopped for lunch and then found a bus to Midelt. Less puking, which was nice, but odd. The bus is taller and seems to sway more... anyway.
The terrain down to Midelt was pretty cool. The rock was layed down flat over thousands of years and then twisted and tilted. Some of the hill looked like the very rock was plowed into neat angled rows across hills and valleys. There was even a place where layers of rock were turned perpendicular to the earth. They looked like the ragged edges of a massive and forgotten book. I couldn't help but be a little inspired by it.
In Midelt I met up with another PCV, Jeff. He has only been in Morocco a couple of months, but he was in Madagascar before that. The peace corps had to get everyone out of there a year ago because of unrest there. I guess they are back now, but Jeff wanted to try something new. Jeff had to take off in the evening because he was teaching English to kids. He left me a spare key so that I could see the town. I didn't see much of it as I just took a nap. When Jeff got home we got some food and he made some tasty tagine. Jeff and I stayed up late talking and sharing movies.
-Dravis
Aghbala to Outerbat - Day 140
Date: January 5th, 2010
Distance: Travel by taxi and tranzi
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Jackass - Beck
So I left my cousin and Aghbala behind for a mini tour of the Atlas mountains. Since my bike is in Khenifra, this isn't really cheating in that sense. I still have to get back to it when I am done. So that is where my mini tour will finish up. Until then it is motorized, public transport for me.
Allen saw me off to the taxi, which I appreciated as it was a) cold and b) 7:00 AM. I was also glad to have borrowed a sweater because while the taxis could leave that early, it didn't look like it was going to. They usually wait until there is a full load before going. So Allen and I had some tea at a cafe while waiting. Eventually I was called and said goodbye to my cousin. I would meet up with him later in Khenifra.
The first stop by taxi was Imilchil. It was supposed to be packed with people, but I was the only passenger for most of the way. We did stop for a moment at a major highway intersection. I thought we might pick up some more passengers as there were people standing around. Turns out two of them were getting into a fight. My cabbie had to get out and brake it up. Really not sure what it was all about. Remember kids, foreign travel, it may not always be fun, but it is always interesting.
Anyway, when I got to Imilchil the tranzi to Outerbat was just about to leave. I just it. The trip itself was fairly uneventful though.
When I got to Outerbat I met up with a PCV out there named Jack. Very cool guy. He made me some lunch and then we left to check out the place. We met with the head of the local commune. Very cool guy. Even provided us with nice hot tea. He liked the help the Peace Corps was providing his village. The volunteer before Jack had help get them toilets inside. Big steps into the modern world. After that we hiked up to the top of a little hill to get a great view of the town. I wish I had brought my camera though. I missed a great shot. Oh well.
For dinner, Jack made some chili. There was no meat in it though, which was a disappointment for Jack. His chicken guy just never showed up though. I thought the chili was great, even if it didn't have meat. I thought the the chili powder must have been sent from the states, but he said all the ingredients were locally available. Morocco is known for its spices, so he just got the components for chili power and put them all together. Good stuff.
-Dravis
Distance: Travel by taxi and tranzi
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Jackass - Beck
So I left my cousin and Aghbala behind for a mini tour of the Atlas mountains. Since my bike is in Khenifra, this isn't really cheating in that sense. I still have to get back to it when I am done. So that is where my mini tour will finish up. Until then it is motorized, public transport for me.
Allen saw me off to the taxi, which I appreciated as it was a) cold and b) 7:00 AM. I was also glad to have borrowed a sweater because while the taxis could leave that early, it didn't look like it was going to. They usually wait until there is a full load before going. So Allen and I had some tea at a cafe while waiting. Eventually I was called and said goodbye to my cousin. I would meet up with him later in Khenifra.
The first stop by taxi was Imilchil. It was supposed to be packed with people, but I was the only passenger for most of the way. We did stop for a moment at a major highway intersection. I thought we might pick up some more passengers as there were people standing around. Turns out two of them were getting into a fight. My cabbie had to get out and brake it up. Really not sure what it was all about. Remember kids, foreign travel, it may not always be fun, but it is always interesting.
Anyway, when I got to Imilchil the tranzi to Outerbat was just about to leave. I just it. The trip itself was fairly uneventful though.
When I got to Outerbat I met up with a PCV out there named Jack. Very cool guy. He made me some lunch and then we left to check out the place. We met with the head of the local commune. Very cool guy. Even provided us with nice hot tea. He liked the help the Peace Corps was providing his village. The volunteer before Jack had help get them toilets inside. Big steps into the modern world. After that we hiked up to the top of a little hill to get a great view of the town. I wish I had brought my camera though. I missed a great shot. Oh well.
For dinner, Jack made some chili. There was no meat in it though, which was a disappointment for Jack. His chicken guy just never showed up though. I thought the chili was great, even if it didn't have meat. I thought the the chili powder must have been sent from the states, but he said all the ingredients were locally available. Morocco is known for its spices, so he just got the components for chili power and put them all together. Good stuff.
-Dravis
Monday, January 4, 2010
Argbala - Day 138
Date: January 3rd, 2010
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: The Marquee and the Moon - Sloan
Allen and I headed out to another little village outside of town. He is looking at
working on an irrigation/erosion project out there. The hike out was quite pleasant. The terrain really reminded me of the southwest. Red and gold mesa lightly dusted with scrub brush. Even the huts reminded me of adobe buildings.
When we arrived in the village we were met by Bassu, the local association coordinator. He showed us the work that had been done, and the work that was required. About 1km of the town's irrigation ditch had been built out of concrete. A kilometer on each end still needed the same treatment. There were also several spots where rain would erode the hillside and clog the canal. So it needed some work. But that is the point of doing projects.
After the viewing the canal we were invited to lunch. In the culture, any new arrivals should be invited to lunch. We
did get a bit more than we bargained for because it seemed like the whole town was there. According to Bassu, it was a wedding feast. So I guess I have now crashed a Berber wedding reception. We went into a mud walled house, took off our shoes and sat down on some carpets in the main room. There were only men in the room though. The women were somewhere else.
They did serve up a pretty hearty meal. It started off with tea. This is probably the most popular hot drink in the country. They serve it sweet and hot. I prefer the former over the latter. Then came out the soup course. I think it is traditional to server soup before the main meal. They had a tomato base with lots of rice. The main meal was tagine, what else. This one had sheep meat in it. So that is another first for me. It was tasty, but hard to eat. There were so many little bones in the meat. It really interupts the enjoyment when you chomp down on a bone and have to spit it out. After the tagine we had another round of tea. After that we took the opportunity to leave. Allen and I had to get back.
We were pretty tired after that. So we just had some sandwiches and watched a movie before going to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: The Marquee and the Moon - Sloan
Allen and I headed out to another little village outside of town. He is looking at
working on an irrigation/erosion project out there. The hike out was quite pleasant. The terrain really reminded me of the southwest. Red and gold mesa lightly dusted with scrub brush. Even the huts reminded me of adobe buildings.When we arrived in the village we were met by Bassu, the local association coordinator. He showed us the work that had been done, and the work that was required. About 1km of the town's irrigation ditch had been built out of concrete. A kilometer on each end still needed the same treatment. There were also several spots where rain would erode the hillside and clog the canal. So it needed some work. But that is the point of doing projects.
After the viewing the canal we were invited to lunch. In the culture, any new arrivals should be invited to lunch. We
did get a bit more than we bargained for because it seemed like the whole town was there. According to Bassu, it was a wedding feast. So I guess I have now crashed a Berber wedding reception. We went into a mud walled house, took off our shoes and sat down on some carpets in the main room. There were only men in the room though. The women were somewhere else.They did serve up a pretty hearty meal. It started off with tea. This is probably the most popular hot drink in the country. They serve it sweet and hot. I prefer the former over the latter. Then came out the soup course. I think it is traditional to server soup before the main meal. They had a tomato base with lots of rice. The main meal was tagine, what else. This one had sheep meat in it. So that is another first for me. It was tasty, but hard to eat. There were so many little bones in the meat. It really interupts the enjoyment when you chomp down on a bone and have to spit it out. After the tagine we had another round of tea. After that we took the opportunity to leave. Allen and I had to get back.
We were pretty tired after that. So we just had some sandwiches and watched a movie before going to bed.
-Dravis
Argbala - Day 137
Date: January 2nd, 2010
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: This Will be My Year - Semisonic
I have been getting that itch to go back on the road. But I need to get a few things fixed up first. If you recall I wore a hole in my pannier in the crash outside of Malaga. So now I need to patch it up. I got some Cordura fabric before I left and I was going to sew that one, but I thought that might only put more holes in the bag. Instead I decided to use regular caulking. That seems to have worked. The next time it rains I will let you know how well the seems are holding.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: This Will be My Year - Semisonic
I have been getting that itch to go back on the road. But I need to get a few things fixed up first. If you recall I wore a hole in my pannier in the crash outside of Malaga. So now I need to patch it up. I got some Cordura fabric before I left and I was going to sew that one, but I thought that might only put more holes in the bag. Instead I decided to use regular caulking. That seems to have worked. The next time it rains I will let you know how well the seems are holding.
-Dravis
Argbala - Day 136
Date: January 1st, 2010
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: New Year's Day - U2
Took a nice hike today up to the tallest peak around the town. My cousin and I hiked up through the neighborhood highest on the hill. It was a hike too. Some of the streets put those on First Hill to shame. Also, they are dirt and lose rock.
From there it was along a goat track up into the hills and even that petered out. So
the last mile or so we were making our own trail through the rocks and scrub brush. The top afforded a great view of the town below.
The rest of the day was pretty sedate. Made a little dinner. Watched a movie on the computer and went to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: New Year's Day - U2
Took a nice hike today up to the tallest peak around the town. My cousin and I hiked up through the neighborhood highest on the hill. It was a hike too. Some of the streets put those on First Hill to shame. Also, they are dirt and lose rock.
From there it was along a goat track up into the hills and even that petered out. So
the last mile or so we were making our own trail through the rocks and scrub brush. The top afforded a great view of the town below.The rest of the day was pretty sedate. Made a little dinner. Watched a movie on the computer and went to bed.
-Dravis
Saturday, January 2, 2010
Argbala - Day 135
Date: December 31st, 2009
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: The New Year - Death Cab for Cutie
For dinner my cousin and I headed over to his host aunt's house. She had cooked up quite a spread for us. Actually, other members of their extended family were coming in and out all evening. I could see why, the food was great.
It started off with a lentil soup. Allen was telling me that the soup is what they would use to break their daily fast during Ramadan. I thought it was great, but he assured me it gets old after 30 straight days.
Then Mona, his host aunt, brought out the main dish. A chicken tagine. Yum. In Moroccan food everyone eats from a large round platter. I guess they usually pick up food with bread. Using your fingers is okay too. You are supposed to eat in a triangular area in front of you.
The kids finished off the evening with a little entertainment. They had the Moroccan version of Dick Clark's Rock'n New Years Eve. Actually, it was more like the best from this year's Moroccan American Idol. It was all in arabic, so I didn't understand anying. But the kids were up and dancing. So we got up and danced along for a bit.
After that we headed back. Watched a movie until midnight. It was a much quieter New Year's than previous ones. No fireworks. No champaigne. Just good food and a quiet evening. Hello 2010!
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: The New Year - Death Cab for Cutie
For dinner my cousin and I headed over to his host aunt's house. She had cooked up quite a spread for us. Actually, other members of their extended family were coming in and out all evening. I could see why, the food was great.
It started off with a lentil soup. Allen was telling me that the soup is what they would use to break their daily fast during Ramadan. I thought it was great, but he assured me it gets old after 30 straight days.
Then Mona, his host aunt, brought out the main dish. A chicken tagine. Yum. In Moroccan food everyone eats from a large round platter. I guess they usually pick up food with bread. Using your fingers is okay too. You are supposed to eat in a triangular area in front of you.
The kids finished off the evening with a little entertainment. They had the Moroccan version of Dick Clark's Rock'n New Years Eve. Actually, it was more like the best from this year's Moroccan American Idol. It was all in arabic, so I didn't understand anying. But the kids were up and dancing. So we got up and danced along for a bit.
After that we headed back. Watched a movie until midnight. It was a much quieter New Year's than previous ones. No fireworks. No champaigne. Just good food and a quiet evening. Hello 2010!
-Dravis
Argbala - Day 134
Date: December 30th, 2009
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Next Year - Foo Fighters
Today we met up with one of my cousin's counterparts. They are looking at working on an irrigation and drainage project in a nearby hamlet.
We also cooked up some pizza today. It worked out pretty well. Allen's mom sent him pepperoni. Moroccan pizza does not have pepperoni. Of course this got a little bit weird in that there is no stove at my cousin's place. Also, the cheese you can get isn't exactly like mozzarella. So we just got the normal round bread at the shop here. Then stuffed everything inside and fried it to get it all nice and melty. Not exactly the same, but a pretty good facsimile.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Next Year - Foo Fighters
Today we met up with one of my cousin's counterparts. They are looking at working on an irrigation and drainage project in a nearby hamlet.
We also cooked up some pizza today. It worked out pretty well. Allen's mom sent him pepperoni. Moroccan pizza does not have pepperoni. Of course this got a little bit weird in that there is no stove at my cousin's place. Also, the cheese you can get isn't exactly like mozzarella. So we just got the normal round bread at the shop here. Then stuffed everything inside and fried it to get it all nice and melty. Not exactly the same, but a pretty good facsimile.
-Dravis
Argbala - Day 133
Date: December 29th, 2009
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Dead of Winter - Eels
Today was a boring day. I did laundry. That was about it. So instead I will try to describe the place my cousin is graciously hosting me at.
Let me preface this description with the fact that nothing I write should be considered a complaint. I am merely trying to describe the situation here. This is probably not all that much different from what most people in the village live with every day. I am just trying to give you an accurate impression as to what makes this different from how you experience life everyday.
I should start by saying the place has all the grace and charm of a Siberian prison. Let that be your canvas that the rest of this mental picture is painted on. The walls are thick concrete block. Yet, they don't seem to help keep any heat in. (I am also told they don't keep the heat out in the summer either.) The central room is big with a large skylight. The only thing keeping out the rain or keeping in the heat is a grid of rebar. The paint is green and mottled. There are three rooms besides the kithchen and bathroom. Each room is outfitted with one bare lightbulb. Usually nearby is the single electrical outlet for each room. There is running water as well, but only one tap. There is no hot water. No shower either. The bathroom is little more than a room with a hole in the ground. (I will try to post some pictures of it soon.)
My cousin' has done a good job of making the place as comfortable as possible. He has put pictures and maps up on the walls to make it a little more homey. His room is the warmest and has a big soft rug. So that is where we have been hanging out. All in all, not a bad place for about $90 a month. Still, in a little while I will be taking off heading to warmer climates. My cousin still has 16 more months helping out this little community he lives in. I would say he has more guts than I do on this one.
-Dravis
Distance: None
Country: Morocco
Song of the Day: Dead of Winter - Eels
Today was a boring day. I did laundry. That was about it. So instead I will try to describe the place my cousin is graciously hosting me at.
Let me preface this description with the fact that nothing I write should be considered a complaint. I am merely trying to describe the situation here. This is probably not all that much different from what most people in the village live with every day. I am just trying to give you an accurate impression as to what makes this different from how you experience life everyday.
I should start by saying the place has all the grace and charm of a Siberian prison. Let that be your canvas that the rest of this mental picture is painted on. The walls are thick concrete block. Yet, they don't seem to help keep any heat in. (I am also told they don't keep the heat out in the summer either.) The central room is big with a large skylight. The only thing keeping out the rain or keeping in the heat is a grid of rebar. The paint is green and mottled. There are three rooms besides the kithchen and bathroom. Each room is outfitted with one bare lightbulb. Usually nearby is the single electrical outlet for each room. There is running water as well, but only one tap. There is no hot water. No shower either. The bathroom is little more than a room with a hole in the ground. (I will try to post some pictures of it soon.)
My cousin' has done a good job of making the place as comfortable as possible. He has put pictures and maps up on the walls to make it a little more homey. His room is the warmest and has a big soft rug. So that is where we have been hanging out. All in all, not a bad place for about $90 a month. Still, in a little while I will be taking off heading to warmer climates. My cousin still has 16 more months helping out this little community he lives in. I would say he has more guts than I do on this one.
-Dravis
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