Arly to Djabonli -Day 262

Date: May 7th, 2010
Distance: 49km
Country: Burkina Faso

My goal for the day was to get out of Burkina. It didn't really work out that way though. The rain last night made everything a bit slow. The guys had told me they were taking a truck to the border in the morning. So I was hoping to go with them. They were taking the morning easy though. So I had to sit around and wait while things got going. After breakfast they told me the truck wasn't going. The rain made the road impassible, but I could still go. Okay.

I went to the Chef to get my passport stamped, but he said they weren't a border post. So they couldn't stamp it. I think he would have given me the stamp they did have but it didn't even say Burkina Faso on it. I would have to go to a town 35 kilometers away, called Logobou. I could cross the border there.

So that set me off on a huge journey. First I was heading through the bush over a set of small rocky hills. The scenery was amazing. Green trees, surrounded by rocky cliffs. It really felt like being in Africa. Out in the bush. The path was not so great. This wasn't even a road, just a path for bicycles or motos over rather than around the hills. Much of the path seemed like going over a dry stream bed. I had to push my bike over the jumble of rocks.

Once I got into Djabonli things got a bit easier. There was actually a road from there on out. Not a great road. Just two dirt ruts through the grassland. It was washed out in places as well. Still the going was pretty good.

When I got to Logobou, it turns out they didn't have the stamp either. I was informed they weren't a frontier post either, and didn't have the correct stamp. I didn't really care about the correct stamp at this point, just something that said "Burkina Faso" would do. They wouldn't do it. They did call up the office in Pama and talked to them. I think they said I could go, and just get a stamp at the next embassy I passed. Fine, whatever. I now needed to find the path to Benin. At first they said I would have to go 100km down the road to the next crossing. I wanted to go between the two parks though. For a bit they said it wasn't possible. Finally the police said I could talk to someone at the forestry office. I would need to wait for a bit though.

I took this opportunity to get some food. One of the guys hanging out in front of the police station took me to a place he knew. Actually I think his sister was running it. I had a small plate of rice and sauce and all it cost me was 50 CFA. This is about 10 cents. What a deal. I was just finished when the guy from the forestry office came.

When I got to the forestry office there was a dusty collection of (I am not kidding) muzzle loading guns in one corner. Apparently poachers still use cap and ball rifles. How would you like to hunt for food with a 200 year old musket?

When the boss came in, we chatted about the guns and I explained my trip. So I thought things were going well. They said I could go through the bush the next day. It was too late in the evening now. I would need a guide to take me. Actually, two guides, so that they could come back as a pair. I would need to pay for gas and so forth for their motos. Fine. The price wanted 20,000 CFA. That was just ridiculous. I realized they were scamming me. I stormed off and said I was going back to Arly.

I didn't make it that far. I got back to Djabouni just before sunset. I didn't really want to risk going over the hills through the bush at night. So I asked another cyclist going with me if he knew a place to stay. He said he could help me out. Of course this was in French, and he only spoke a little. I just got the impression he wanted me to follow. So I went to his compound first. Then to his girlfriend's house. I think he thought she spoke better French. When I spoke to her though, she kept saying she didn't speak English. I may not speak much French, but I do know how to say I need a place to sleep, thank you. Finally she got it and explained to my guide that I just needed a place for my tent. So my guide to me over to the market. I am not sure why really. He asked me to wait for a minute while he rode off somewhere. After a few minutes he came back and told me to come along.

He took me over to a compound that looked like most in the village. Just a collection of mud brick huts. The patron there welcomed me and tried to show me a room. I just wanted a place for my tent. It ended up in what I think must be their barn. They were nice enough to sweep out the goat poop for me though. I also got a bucket of water and a place to shower. They even feed me dinner. More to, which is awful. The chicken in the sauce was just amazing though. I think it was the best I have had since being in Africa.

-Dravis