Date: October 5th, 2009
Distance: 140 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Nothingman - Pearl Jam
I was going to get up with the sun and get my tent off the side of the freeway. But it was still raining when my alarm went off. Since I was well hidden, I decided to just sleep a bit longer. Taking a tent down in the rain is so annoying. So I had another hour and a half. By then the rain had stopped and taking the tent down was, well, not dry, but less wet.
The first thing I did was go to the Chateau Guillaume le Conquérant. I guess it wasn't actually his birthplace. They did have a neat audio-visual tour. I also got another of the videos for my little movie.
From there it was just a slog for the rest of the day. I had planned ahead and found a camping site that was open year round near Dreux. I just needed to get there. I stopped at another McDonald's for a BigMac and more free wi-fi to check my route. I swear, in the last three days here in France, I have had more McDonald's than I have in the last three years in the states.
By then it was getting dark and I still had almost 60 km to go. I don't know what it was. It could have been the BigMac, or it could have been the half liter of Coke, or both, but somehow it formed biking super fuel. For the last two hours of the day I was cruising at about 30 kph. So when I did get into the camping site, they were still open. I was able to get a nice spot, and a badly needed shower.
-Dravis
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Arromanches to Falaise - Day 47
Date: October 4th, 2009
Distance: 86 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: The Scientist - Coldplay
This morning I rode along the harbor at Arromanches. This was Gold beach during the Normandy Invasion. It was also the site of one of the Mulberry harbors. You can still see a lot of the harbor left. The concrete caissons that were sunk out to form a breakwater are still there. Some of the pontoons are now stuck in the sand and rusting away.
That I think is the main reason that the Allies won the war. Don't, get me wrong, I am not trying to diminish what the men on the front lines did. More then just their bravery, it was the ability of the allies, and mostly America, to just out produce everybody else. Plus the ability to organize and over supply our troops that made the victory possible.
From there it was up the coast to Juno beach. This was the Canadian sector. It didn't have the high bluffs that Omaha did. But With the fortifications that were still around, you could see why the Canadians here had a high casualty rate.
By this time it had started to rain. I should mention that the weather for the last two weeks has been amazing. I don't know what I did to deserve such good weather, but I got it. Like all good things it had to come to an end. Still, the light rain was nice and cool.
Last stop along the shore was Sword beach. There wasn't much left of the assault beach. Just a few markers and memorials along the way. Now it is mostly a quiet resort community. I know the south of France gets a lot of press, but the Normandy beaches are quite nice. I would definitely recommend a visit. The beaches are lovely.
From there I headed inland along the Caen canal. Stopped by Pegasus bridge. Once in Caen, I stopped by Le Chateau Ducal. Wow, that is another neat castle. I relise that it is half destroyed. But the remaining half is pretty cool. Very similar to the castle at Dover. Then again, as the king of England and the duke of Normandy were the same during that time, they would.
I was hoping to get out to Falaise before nightfall, but that didn't happen. When I did get in, the camping site was closed for the season. I thought not planning aheah might come to bite me, and it did. I was going to go to a hotel, but the only one that was open wanted 60 euro! No thanks.
I ended up at McDonalds again for desert and to use their free wi-fi. Google maps satalite view was great for locating a couple of places in the area I could pitch my tent.
I found a little clearing right off the freeway and made camp there. It wasn't a nice lawn, but it worked. I am glad I did because a few hours after I got in, it started raining. Warm and dry, I slept well.
-Dravis
Distance: 86 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: The Scientist - Coldplay
This morning I rode along the harbor at Arromanches. This was Gold beach during the Normandy Invasion. It was also the site of one of the Mulberry harbors. You can still see a lot of the harbor left. The concrete caissons that were sunk out to form a breakwater are still there. Some of the pontoons are now stuck in the sand and rusting away.
That I think is the main reason that the Allies won the war. Don't, get me wrong, I am not trying to diminish what the men on the front lines did. More then just their bravery, it was the ability of the allies, and mostly America, to just out produce everybody else. Plus the ability to organize and over supply our troops that made the victory possible.
From there it was up the coast to Juno beach. This was the Canadian sector. It didn't have the high bluffs that Omaha did. But With the fortifications that were still around, you could see why the Canadians here had a high casualty rate.
By this time it had started to rain. I should mention that the weather for the last two weeks has been amazing. I don't know what I did to deserve such good weather, but I got it. Like all good things it had to come to an end. Still, the light rain was nice and cool.
Last stop along the shore was Sword beach. There wasn't much left of the assault beach. Just a few markers and memorials along the way. Now it is mostly a quiet resort community. I know the south of France gets a lot of press, but the Normandy beaches are quite nice. I would definitely recommend a visit. The beaches are lovely.
From there I headed inland along the Caen canal. Stopped by Pegasus bridge. Once in Caen, I stopped by Le Chateau Ducal. Wow, that is another neat castle. I relise that it is half destroyed. But the remaining half is pretty cool. Very similar to the castle at Dover. Then again, as the king of England and the duke of Normandy were the same during that time, they would.
I was hoping to get out to Falaise before nightfall, but that didn't happen. When I did get in, the camping site was closed for the season. I thought not planning aheah might come to bite me, and it did. I was going to go to a hotel, but the only one that was open wanted 60 euro! No thanks.
I ended up at McDonalds again for desert and to use their free wi-fi. Google maps satalite view was great for locating a couple of places in the area I could pitch my tent.
I found a little clearing right off the freeway and made camp there. It wasn't a nice lawn, but it worked. I am glad I did because a few hours after I got in, it started raining. Warm and dry, I slept well.
-Dravis
Port-en-Bessin to Arromanches - Day 46
Date: October 3rd, 2009
Distance: 67 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Bonnie - Prefab Sprout
If you had looked at the distance, you would assume that I had actually gotten somewhere today, but no. It was all just back and forth. I only really went about 12 km down the coast.
When I got up, I went back out to the Normandy cemetery. My camera had died before I was able to get the videos that I needed. So I went back for a bit. Walked along Omaha beach as well. Got another little video there.
Then I went out to see the gun emplacement and Longues-sur-mer. The concrete fortifications were pretty impressive. The guns, now rusting are still there. One of them was shattered with pieces all over the ground. One of the other guns had the breach of 2 inch thick steel folded back like a bannana peel.
Then it was down to Arromanches, where I discovered that I was missing the addapter to my camera. I can copy stuff off of the camera onto my computer (like the pictures I post), but only with that special USB adapter. Thinking I might have left it at the last camping site, I quickly raced back. But alas, it wasn't there.
So now I can't get anything off the camera until I get a new one. Argh. Never get a camera with special adapters. If they had just put in USB to begin with, I would be fine. Now I have to go out and find another special adapter. Damn.
Annoyed, I stayed up a bit sewing extensions onto the velcro straps of my trunk bag. More mods. But now the trunk bag doesn't list to one side as I am riding.
-Dravis
Distance: 67 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Bonnie - Prefab Sprout
If you had looked at the distance, you would assume that I had actually gotten somewhere today, but no. It was all just back and forth. I only really went about 12 km down the coast.
When I got up, I went back out to the Normandy cemetery. My camera had died before I was able to get the videos that I needed. So I went back for a bit. Walked along Omaha beach as well. Got another little video there.
Then I went out to see the gun emplacement and Longues-sur-mer. The concrete fortifications were pretty impressive. The guns, now rusting are still there. One of them was shattered with pieces all over the ground. One of the other guns had the breach of 2 inch thick steel folded back like a bannana peel.
Then it was down to Arromanches, where I discovered that I was missing the addapter to my camera. I can copy stuff off of the camera onto my computer (like the pictures I post), but only with that special USB adapter. Thinking I might have left it at the last camping site, I quickly raced back. But alas, it wasn't there.
So now I can't get anything off the camera until I get a new one. Argh. Never get a camera with special adapters. If they had just put in USB to begin with, I would be fine. Now I have to go out and find another special adapter. Damn.
Annoyed, I stayed up a bit sewing extensions onto the velcro straps of my trunk bag. More mods. But now the trunk bag doesn't list to one side as I am riding.
-Dravis
Friday, October 2, 2009
Bayeux to Port-en-Bessin - Day 45
Date: October 2nd, 2009
Distance: 30 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: It'll All Work Out - Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers
Rode into Bayeux and went to see the Bayeux tapestry. Despite not actually being a tapestry (it is embroidered cloth, not designs woven into the fabric), it is amazing. The embroidery work is excellent. Plus it really looks like a medieval movie. It is quite easy to see how it was used to explain the story to an illiterate audience.
If it were a movie, it would go kind of like this:
Beginning: The King of England, Edward the Confessor, is dying. He sends Harold to Normandy to announce that William will be the next king.
Middle: Harold and William meet and become friends. The go to war together and have great adventures. William has Harold swear an oath (on holy relics) that he will support William as king. Harold goes back to England. When Edward the confessor dies, Harold breaks his oath and crowns himself king. William must avenge the oath breaking. He prepares ships and knights for battle.
End: William and Harold meet with their armies at Hastings. The fighting is long and bloody. Eventually Harold is killed as divine punishment for breaking his oath.
Just like a movie.
I also went over the British military cemetery in Bayeux. I think the saddest headstones are the ones that say just "Known only unto God."
Then it was back out to the coast. I didn't feel like doing a big day. So I just found a place to camp. Did a bit of bike maintenance. Then made some dinner and went to bed.
-Dravis
Distance: 30 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: It'll All Work Out - Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers
Rode into Bayeux and went to see the Bayeux tapestry. Despite not actually being a tapestry (it is embroidered cloth, not designs woven into the fabric), it is amazing. The embroidery work is excellent. Plus it really looks like a medieval movie. It is quite easy to see how it was used to explain the story to an illiterate audience.
If it were a movie, it would go kind of like this:
Beginning: The King of England, Edward the Confessor, is dying. He sends Harold to Normandy to announce that William will be the next king.
Middle: Harold and William meet and become friends. The go to war together and have great adventures. William has Harold swear an oath (on holy relics) that he will support William as king. Harold goes back to England. When Edward the confessor dies, Harold breaks his oath and crowns himself king. William must avenge the oath breaking. He prepares ships and knights for battle.
End: William and Harold meet with their armies at Hastings. The fighting is long and bloody. Eventually Harold is killed as divine punishment for breaking his oath.
Just like a movie.
I also went over the British military cemetery in Bayeux. I think the saddest headstones are the ones that say just "Known only unto God."
Then it was back out to the coast. I didn't feel like doing a big day. So I just found a place to camp. Did a bit of bike maintenance. Then made some dinner and went to bed.
-Dravis
Grandcamp-Maisy to Bayeux - Day 44
Date: October 1st, 2009
Distance: 46 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Fight or Fall - Thin Lizzy
This morning went to the Ranger museum in Grandcamp. It tells the story of the 2nd Range battalion, and their struggle for Point du Hoc. After that I rode up to Point du Hoc. It is a really impressive place to see. It is littered with bomb craters and German bunkers. It still appears pretty much the way it would have during the war. For the Rangers who climbed up the cliffs and fought there, I have nothing but the utmost respect.
From there I rode down the coast to Omaha beach. There isn't much left on the beach to remind you of what happened. The bluffs still loom over the shore, but the sea is peaceful. The
obstacles and barbed wire have been cleared. The Mulberry harbor is gone. Part of one pontoon is still stuck in the sand. At low tide the ships sunk to be part of the breakwater are supposed to be visable, but I didn't see anything. There are markers around to tell the story. There is also a National Guard memorial built on top of a pillbox. But for the most part it is once again a quiet sandy beach.
I did see one thing that did get me thinking. I am not sure if it is in bad
taste. It was just a simple sign, and probably a bad translation. I just couldn't help but think that if that sign was there 65 years ago, a lot of young men would have grown up to be old men.
I also went to the US cemetery at Normandy. It is very impressive and humbling. Just simple rows of crosses and stars. Then again maybe it is the order of the markers juxtoposing the randomness of death in war that makes it so powerful. There is a visitor center there well worth visiting. It has videos and tributes which are done very well. The family was given a choice to bring the body home. In one of the videos someone was describing why the had intured their brother in France. The reason was "because he earned that land."
Anyway, I didn't want to get too somber. So I will finish up with a little bit of the lighter side. I headed inland toward Bayeux to find a camping spot. (Which I did, for free! Thank you nice French lady, that I didn't understand at all.) From there I wanted to find some dinner and I promissed that anyone that had wi-fi, I would eat dinner there. Well, I found a restaraunt that had wi-fi. Any guesses? Well, it was McDonald's. Yep, that is right, I went to France and I am eating a BigMac as I write this. Good times.
-Dravis
Distance: 46 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Fight or Fall - Thin Lizzy
This morning went to the Ranger museum in Grandcamp. It tells the story of the 2nd Range battalion, and their struggle for Point du Hoc. After that I rode up to Point du Hoc. It is a really impressive place to see. It is littered with bomb craters and German bunkers. It still appears pretty much the way it would have during the war. For the Rangers who climbed up the cliffs and fought there, I have nothing but the utmost respect.
From there I rode down the coast to Omaha beach. There isn't much left on the beach to remind you of what happened. The bluffs still loom over the shore, but the sea is peaceful. The
obstacles and barbed wire have been cleared. The Mulberry harbor is gone. Part of one pontoon is still stuck in the sand. At low tide the ships sunk to be part of the breakwater are supposed to be visable, but I didn't see anything. There are markers around to tell the story. There is also a National Guard memorial built on top of a pillbox. But for the most part it is once again a quiet sandy beach.I did see one thing that did get me thinking. I am not sure if it is in bad
taste. It was just a simple sign, and probably a bad translation. I just couldn't help but think that if that sign was there 65 years ago, a lot of young men would have grown up to be old men.I also went to the US cemetery at Normandy. It is very impressive and humbling. Just simple rows of crosses and stars. Then again maybe it is the order of the markers juxtoposing the randomness of death in war that makes it so powerful. There is a visitor center there well worth visiting. It has videos and tributes which are done very well. The family was given a choice to bring the body home. In one of the videos someone was describing why the had intured their brother in France. The reason was "because he earned that land."
Anyway, I didn't want to get too somber. So I will finish up with a little bit of the lighter side. I headed inland toward Bayeux to find a camping spot. (Which I did, for free! Thank you nice French lady, that I didn't understand at all.) From there I wanted to find some dinner and I promissed that anyone that had wi-fi, I would eat dinner there. Well, I found a restaraunt that had wi-fi. Any guesses? Well, it was McDonald's. Yep, that is right, I went to France and I am eating a BigMac as I write this. Good times.
-Dravis
Sainte-Mere-Eglise to Grandcamp-Maisy - Day 43
Date: September 30th, 2009
Distance: 48 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Number Two - The Pernice Brothers
Today I left camp and made my way East to Utah beach. It is a really pretty section of the French coast. Nice sandy beaches with beautiful views. It reminds me of the East coast of the US. It is actually hard to imagine the fighting that went on there 65 years ago, and I have a good imagination.
At the beach there was a museum which did a good job of explaining everything that happened. After that I took a stroll down the beach. There were occasional reminders, like a rusting piece of artillery half buried in the sand. One of the German bunkers had been converted to a toilet. I guess that is fitting use right?
After that it was getting late so I headed on down the road. By acciden
t I found Brecort Mannor. This is something described in the book Band of Brothers, and also shown in the mini-series. It is now a memorial to the men of Easy company of the 101st Airborne division.
From there it was south to Carentan before heading back to the coast. I got into Grandcamp-Maisy just before dark. I cooked myself a quick meal. Then because I wasn't tired, I decided to do some bike maintenance. I am still evolving it to be the best touring bike I can make it. Remember, my motto is: "If it is worth owning, it is worth modifying."
-Dravis
Distance: 48 km
Country: France
Song of the Day: Number Two - The Pernice Brothers
Today I left camp and made my way East to Utah beach. It is a really pretty section of the French coast. Nice sandy beaches with beautiful views. It reminds me of the East coast of the US. It is actually hard to imagine the fighting that went on there 65 years ago, and I have a good imagination.
At the beach there was a museum which did a good job of explaining everything that happened. After that I took a stroll down the beach. There were occasional reminders, like a rusting piece of artillery half buried in the sand. One of the German bunkers had been converted to a toilet. I guess that is fitting use right?
After that it was getting late so I headed on down the road. By acciden
t I found Brecort Mannor. This is something described in the book Band of Brothers, and also shown in the mini-series. It is now a memorial to the men of Easy company of the 101st Airborne division.From there it was south to Carentan before heading back to the coast. I got into Grandcamp-Maisy just before dark. I cooked myself a quick meal. Then because I wasn't tired, I decided to do some bike maintenance. I am still evolving it to be the best touring bike I can make it. Remember, my motto is: "If it is worth owning, it is worth modifying."
-Dravis
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Portsmouth to Sainte-Mere-Eglise - Day 42
Date: September 29th, 2009
Distance: 80 km (I switched to kilometers on the continent.)
Country: France
Song of the Day: Measuring Cups - Andrew Bird
Today I had to get up way too early. I had an 8:00 boat from Portsmouth to Cherbourg. Plus I was supposed to be there an hour early. So I was awake at the ungodly hour of 5:30 AM. After that everything went pretty well though. I had some breakfast then I put all my stuff on the bike. Jeannie even woke up to see me off. A big thanks to her and Mike for letting me stay. They were both amazing hosts and wonderful to be around. Jeannie, good luck in Australia!
I rode into Gosport and got the ferry over to Portsmouth. Then it was off to the channel ferry terminal. It was much faster this time. Not only did I have the bike, but I didn't get lost. Yay.
I arrived 45 minutes ahead of the sailing time. That actually worked out well. I checked in and only waited about 1 minute before they let me on. Plus I was the first one aboard on account of the bicycle. I secured that and headed upstairs.
For some reason I found myself nervous. I guess I always feel that way before traveling to a new place. Plus France is a new place where I don't speak the language. I tried thinking of all the French I have picked up over the years. It isn't much, but I hope it works. After we got out of the harbor, I went to sleep for a bit. I got up too early to stay awake for the boring part of the crossing.
When I woke up we were just about to get into Cherbourg. I was one of the first off, but because everyone else was in a car, I ended up in the middle of the pack to get through customs. I was worried that they might ask me questions about who I was or what I was doing, but the immigration officials were very nice. I needed to get a stamp in my passport (most likely because I was American, and almost everyone else was European). The lady who stamped the passport smiled stamped it and gave it back. I asked her if I could go to Belgium, Holland, Germany, Italy, then come back through France. She looked at me sweetly, and said "Of course you can." Really, that is the nicest border crossing I have ever been through.
From there I pedaled around Cherbourg for a bit. I was trying to get my berings. Not with directions really, I knew which way to go. What I really wanted to know was how everything works here. I didn't find a grocery store. I still don't know where they buy groceries. There were some butcher stores and a fruit stand. But you have to be able to get cans and dried food somewhere. Or milk? Maybe tomorrow I will find out.
I did find that the French like bakeries, and I love them for that. Fresh baked... well... anything is great. They often have sandwiches too, which are good. Until I find the grocery stores, I think I am going to live on "pain chocolate".
From there I rode east. Learned the French road system. On a bike, avoid any of the "N" roads. These are freeways. Not highly trafficked where I was, but a freeway none the less. Try the "D" roads, they are much better. More like country highways. Plus they have something the English didn't. Adequate sinage. Yep, you can actually find your way around the country pretty well, just by following the road signs. I am frankly amazed. Sure, it isn't perfect, but it is head and shoulders aboved the british roads I have gotten used to. Then again, I haven't wandered off into the little country roads, but I think getting around this country will be pretty good.
After I hit the coast, I went South. The countryside is really pretty here. Then again (and neither country will like this) northern France looks a lot like England. I tried to stop off and get an adapter for my laptop charger. There was a nice little electronics shop (in a building that looked 300 years old). The lady didn't speak any English. But I was able to manage. I told her I was looking for an adapter. After a moment she got what I was saying, and happily told me no, they didn't have any. So communication isn't bad, and the people are friendly, even if they are saying they can't help.
From there ended up in Saint-Mere-Eglaise. This was the first town liberated by the Allies in the Normandy campaign. This was done by the US 82nd Airborne Division. They even have a pretty good museum about it with a Waco glider and a C-47. Neat stuff. So I got another one of my little videos here.
There was also a campsite close by, so I decided to stop. It only cost me €4.80. I am really liking this country. I even set up my tent while it was still light. Since I didn't have any groceries I had to go out for dinner. So far the only thing I haven't liked was that everything is closed. So I am in a pizzeria right now getting some dinner. A little expensive, but I can manage for one night.
-Dravis
Distance: 80 km (I switched to kilometers on the continent.)
Country: France
Song of the Day: Measuring Cups - Andrew Bird
Today I had to get up way too early. I had an 8:00 boat from Portsmouth to Cherbourg. Plus I was supposed to be there an hour early. So I was awake at the ungodly hour of 5:30 AM. After that everything went pretty well though. I had some breakfast then I put all my stuff on the bike. Jeannie even woke up to see me off. A big thanks to her and Mike for letting me stay. They were both amazing hosts and wonderful to be around. Jeannie, good luck in Australia!
I rode into Gosport and got the ferry over to Portsmouth. Then it was off to the channel ferry terminal. It was much faster this time. Not only did I have the bike, but I didn't get lost. Yay.
I arrived 45 minutes ahead of the sailing time. That actually worked out well. I checked in and only waited about 1 minute before they let me on. Plus I was the first one aboard on account of the bicycle. I secured that and headed upstairs.
For some reason I found myself nervous. I guess I always feel that way before traveling to a new place. Plus France is a new place where I don't speak the language. I tried thinking of all the French I have picked up over the years. It isn't much, but I hope it works. After we got out of the harbor, I went to sleep for a bit. I got up too early to stay awake for the boring part of the crossing.
When I woke up we were just about to get into Cherbourg. I was one of the first off, but because everyone else was in a car, I ended up in the middle of the pack to get through customs. I was worried that they might ask me questions about who I was or what I was doing, but the immigration officials were very nice. I needed to get a stamp in my passport (most likely because I was American, and almost everyone else was European). The lady who stamped the passport smiled stamped it and gave it back. I asked her if I could go to Belgium, Holland, Germany, Italy, then come back through France. She looked at me sweetly, and said "Of course you can." Really, that is the nicest border crossing I have ever been through.
From there I pedaled around Cherbourg for a bit. I was trying to get my berings. Not with directions really, I knew which way to go. What I really wanted to know was how everything works here. I didn't find a grocery store. I still don't know where they buy groceries. There were some butcher stores and a fruit stand. But you have to be able to get cans and dried food somewhere. Or milk? Maybe tomorrow I will find out.
I did find that the French like bakeries, and I love them for that. Fresh baked... well... anything is great. They often have sandwiches too, which are good. Until I find the grocery stores, I think I am going to live on "pain chocolate".
From there I rode east. Learned the French road system. On a bike, avoid any of the "N" roads. These are freeways. Not highly trafficked where I was, but a freeway none the less. Try the "D" roads, they are much better. More like country highways. Plus they have something the English didn't. Adequate sinage. Yep, you can actually find your way around the country pretty well, just by following the road signs. I am frankly amazed. Sure, it isn't perfect, but it is head and shoulders aboved the british roads I have gotten used to. Then again, I haven't wandered off into the little country roads, but I think getting around this country will be pretty good.
After I hit the coast, I went South. The countryside is really pretty here. Then again (and neither country will like this) northern France looks a lot like England. I tried to stop off and get an adapter for my laptop charger. There was a nice little electronics shop (in a building that looked 300 years old). The lady didn't speak any English. But I was able to manage. I told her I was looking for an adapter. After a moment she got what I was saying, and happily told me no, they didn't have any. So communication isn't bad, and the people are friendly, even if they are saying they can't help.
From there ended up in Saint-Mere-Eglaise. This was the first town liberated by the Allies in the Normandy campaign. This was done by the US 82nd Airborne Division. They even have a pretty good museum about it with a Waco glider and a C-47. Neat stuff. So I got another one of my little videos here.
There was also a campsite close by, so I decided to stop. It only cost me €4.80. I am really liking this country. I even set up my tent while it was still light. Since I didn't have any groceries I had to go out for dinner. So far the only thing I haven't liked was that everything is closed. So I am in a pizzeria right now getting some dinner. A little expensive, but I can manage for one night.
-Dravis
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)